Cabin Page

Cabin Page

Important: The opinions expressed here are those of the individual contributors to these pages, and not those of the Catalina 380 International Association or Catalina Yachts, Inc.

It is also important to note the hull number of the boat referenced in the comments by the owners. Catalina is continually making changes to the design of the boats. Changes that were made on an older or newer boat by an owner may not be needed on your boat.

"Head" Support/Storage Rack

Submitted by: Ted Sholl Hull #357 8-1-02

Subject: Cabin

To solve the problem of toilet seat in the head going too far open and stretching its hinges too much, we decided to install a teak book rack as shown in West Marine catalog page 810 ( a teak paperback book holder works just as well but is not in the 2002 catalog). We attached 2 L Brackets (5-1/2 in) from Home Depot with stainless screws and attached the book rack. We placed the brackets so the seat would contact the rack and keep it in a more or less vertical position, and in the bargain we got lots of extra storage space for toiletries. Cost of rack plus hardware was about $55. (Not to mention $100 for a cordless high speed drill to drill the holes.).

Warren Elliot asked a few questions of Ted, and here's his response:

Warren--re the book rack behind the head--I see that the new West Marine catalog does not list the rack I used--maybe discontinued this year but the dealer had one. The $69 version will work fine. I installed the L brackets vertically on the bulkhead behind--checking carefully, before drilling, for hoses, etc. My wife was able to reach back there to check. I put the brackets about 3 1/2 in from the ends of the rack, then screwed down through the rack with stainless screws into the holes in the L brackets. The back edge of the rack is under the lip formed by the sink (corian looking material). The seat actually tilts back about 20 degrees when open so we could sail with it up, although we always try to close it after we use it. (Also cuts down on complaints from females using the head.) The rack in this years catalog is a little larger but will still work fine. Ted

Dinette Table

Submitted by: Forrest Lott Hull #90 8-1-02

Subject: Cabin

The May issue included a short description and photo by Forrest Lott of his smaller dinette table. I had a few questions, the answers to which didn't quite make publication deadline, so here they are.

His picture showed a nice sketch of a sailboat centered in the table top. I wondered at Ted's artistry; however, he reported the sailboat figure is part of an acrylic dish that his wife found in Walmart! It's usually under a pile of chips! Oh well, just shows how different perspectives can be.

I also inquired how Forrest swaps old and new table tops easily, and where the unused one is stored. It turns out that they leave the new one in place all the time as it is so convenient. The old one is stored under the vee berth cushions without the mounting flange, which is part of the new top.

Forrest reports that when the kids visit and the are is needed as a bed, then the new table is simply lowered just below the level of the settee bottom, and the old table top is is laid right on the settee supports. No special hardware needed.

Shower Shelves

Submitted by: Bob Bierly Hull #255 3-21-02

Subject: Cabin

Within the shower there is a hanging locker, ostensibly for hanging slickers and such. We concluded we needed a linen closet a lot more than a place to allow slickers to get moldy (no air circulation in that locker.) Consequently, I built two shelves into that locker giving us three levels of storage for towels, linens etc. The shelves are secured to cleats on each end and have finished wooden fiddles along the edge at the opening. Really gives us some storage space.

Aft Cabin Mirror

Submitted by: Bob Bierly Hull #255 3-21-02

Subject: Cabin

I removed and reinstalled the aft cabin mirror on a cleat mounted on the underside of the steps and through the head wall. I now store screens, trays, between the back of the mirror and the bulkhead. I cut a 10” inspection port into the seat on the port side of the bed. The storage area inside is amazing. I installed a board between the storage area and the manufacturer-installed drawers at the foot of the bed to keep errant stored items from finding their way into the vicinity of the prop shaft coupling and stuffing box. That was the only thing I had to do to make this a very sizable long-term storage area.

The side toward the fridge port side is left open. The storage is formed between the bulkhead, the head wall on the starboard end and the back of the mirror. The screens, etc. set on edge on the engine box. Depth is about 8 inches. The mirror is fastened at the top to two cleats thru bolted to the overhead; access is into the boxes along each side of the top step. The starboard side of the mirror is screwed to a piece of ž plywood about 6 inches wide and as long as the mirror, which is then fastened to the head bulkhead by placing two thru screws into it from the head. I have never had anything fall out of the storage area. The fiddle edge on the engine box keeps things from sliding out. I have on occasion put a throwable cushion in with the screens to keep them from rattling.

I located the mirror such that the forward edge of the [engine] box just passes under the mirror and its support. That way I can lay the box on the aft berth and slide it back completely out of the way when I need access to the whole engine. I am currently using the actual top of the engine box for the storage shelf base. My reason is to get maximum height for storage of a screen that I made for the horizontal opening of the companionway. It would be simple to add a real semi or permanent bottom at the level of the bottom of the mirror by fastening another cleat to the bulkhead (as you suggested) and end fastening the aft edge of the shelf (along the rear of the mirror) thru the mirror frame itself. Such a shelf would reduce the height of the storage opening by about 6 to 8 inches but would obviate the need to remove stored items to open the engine box for maintenance. I may do this if I put a hinge in my companion- way screen(s) and if the other hatch screens will fit. My primary use is protected storage for screens and large trays for the galley.

Aft Cabin Bilge Storage

Submitted by: Bob Bierly Hull #255 3-21-02

Subject: Cabin

Most folks have discovered the storage in the closed bilge’s just forward of the mast. Although some water could find its way into that space, it can easily be used for storage of canned goods, beer, wine etc. as it is. The other two bilge compartments can also be used for this kind of storage by placing a set of floorboards in each. [Older hull #’s have only two accessible bilge compartments-Ed]. The existing grid, which strengthens the boat, makes it possible to cut three boards each 6 ž by 16 ˝ for the aft compartment, which will rest on the turn of the bilge and be held in place by the grid and each other. The storage area, which results, is above the float switch and yields an area 21” by 16" by 15” high. The larger bilge compartment where the pump is located similarly can be bridged by two or three floor boards with suitable cutouts(s) to permit the bilge hoses to do their thing. The space is about the same as the rear one but the access is wider (10”) and hence more useful.

Main Cabin Shelves and Storage

Submitted by: Bob Bierly Hull #255 3-21-02

Subject: Cabin

Recently, I built shelves at the navigation station to store my laptop computer, my inkjet printer, a 13” TV, a CD player and some incidental storage for CD’s etc. All of this is in the open space between the built in “radio” cabinet and the bulkhead forming the forward side of the nav station desk. The entire shelf system, really three interconnected shelves, rest on cleats screwed to the two bulkheads forming the space. By placing fiddles across the front edges of the shelves, the contents are secure in a seaway. It is amazing how much room there is in this area. BTW I also solved the problem several folks have reported of how to get the cover off the factory-installed radio space. I merely cut it in two pieces horizontally and covered the cut with a wood strip. I can now remove the lower half of the faceplate by removing the screws and slipping it out giving me access to the rear of the VHF and AM/FM/Tape player, which are installed in the upper half. The lower half is reserved for a single sideband when the budget and need is clearer.

Vee Berth Shelves

Submitted by: Bob Bierly Hull #255 3-21-02

Subject: Cabin

I have constructed shelves along sides of the cabin above and resting upon the two inch wide shelves that the factory installed. My shelves are about 5 feet long, 12” deep, and with vertical separators about 10” high spaced about one foot centers end to end. Thereby, We have five one cubic foot pigeonholes filling the space between the somewhat useless pre-existing shelf and the overhead. The end pieces of the new shelves are thru-bolted into the windlass compartment at the bow end of each shelf and thru-bolted into the existing lockers at the aft end. The vee berth has no loss of sleeping area. BTW, the shelves can be removed with the removal of about eight bolts. In fact, these shelves were originally built for and installed in the Vee berth of a Catalina 34. The shelves were removed for resale, as the new owner did not want them.

Nav Station

Submitted by: Sid Systsma Hull #242 3-21-02

Subject: Cabin

The Nav station is pretty standard, except it has a little shelf that hides the guts of the Link 2000R. The TV is a Sony, under-the-counter model. I chose the Sony because of all competing brands; it has the strongest connection system to the upper mounting bracket. One could, quite literally hang from it without causing a failure. I use the area on either side of the TV for the boat and engine manuals

TV & Book Storage

Submitted by: Ed and Sharyn Dahn Hull 111 3-21-02

Subject: Cabin

One open project before our first cruise was to work out storage above the nav station for both the TV, video player, and books. This did not get done, and in the excitement of sailing for the first time the TV hit the deck. I am embarrassed to report that this happened not once, but three times. I must say that GE makes an extremely rugged TV , it still works perfectly, however, the cabin sole received a few nasty gouges. A book/TV retainer was made with the 1 ˝ inch oak ˝ round as shown below. Everything behind the retainer is secure and can be removed by lifting the item up and over the top.

Drop Leaf Salon Table

Submitted by: Jim Jaeschke Hull 73 8-15-99

Subject: Cabin

Drop Leaf Salon Table

After two seasons of cruising and having many guests over, Judy and I concluded that the table in the salon was great for eating, but took up a lot of room for getting together. For a while last summer, we took the table out of the salon and put it in the forward cabin. It opened up a lot of space. I started thinking about a compromise that led to this drop leaf table design for the salon.

The concept is simple. Cut the table in three sections. Put it back together using hinges and drop leaf locks. Rather than experiment with this design on the actual table, I bought a piece of plywood and traced the table shape on it. I then cut out the plywood table and made the drop leaf version. This is not meant to be the final version but a prototype that we could further modify to get it as we wanted it.

The first photo shows the start of the assembly process. It is a view of the back side of the plywood table cut into three sections. The cut out for the mast compression pole is plainly visible.

The next photos show the table with the hinges and drop leave locks fully assembled in the flat and retracted positions. I bought the hinges and drop leaf locks at the local wood working store. I cut the piano hinges to fit. The drop leaf locks cost about $8 for a set of two. I used the round fitting that connects the table to the post from existing table.

The next photos show Judy sitting in the salon with the leafs of the table in the dropped and opened positions. Also, they provide proof that the Sun does shine in May in Wisconsin.

We are planning on trying it out for a while this summer. I will then modify the original table and cut it into the shape required.

Night Light
Submitted by: From January 99 Mainsheet	Hull	12-17-98
Subject: Cabin
As nice as it is to have dome lights that can be switched to red for improved night vision, the present system could be improved for serious cruisers. How many times have you or crew accidentally switched a light to the white side? I took a page out of the Catalina 42 book by adding a 42-style red cabin sole-level light to the starboard side of the galley cabinet. This provides an excellent way to always be ensured of shining red light onto the companion way and the immediate area….essential for proper nighttime safety. Dave Peffer, hull #20, Spindrift, has also added a night light just above and next to the commode, on the side of the sink cabinet. This permits crew to go below and take care of business without turning on any lights, at all. These lights can be wired to the “night light” switch on the panel.

Cabin Pole
Submitted by: From January 99 Mainsheet	Hull	12-17-98
Subject: Cabin
One of the problems with large volume cabins is that they can be somewhat awkward in a seaway. What do you hold onto? We have added several teak handles throughout the cabin to match what Catalina had originally installed. This included an additional handle at the companionway port side and at the main cabin-forward cabin door. A bigger issue is helping people pass between the saloon and the companionway in a wild seaway. We installed a stainless 1-inch diameter pole between the coachroof and the galley countertop. This gives the crew an obvious place to grab when “falling down” the companionway in a blow. Without it, they may go rolling through the cabin! Of course, they should always go up and down this ladder facing aft, but… In order to remain clear of the companionway slide above the galley, the pole had to be canted slightly fore and aft. This is hardly noticeable and is an easy trade-off for the safety gained by having the pole as close to the companionway ladder as possible. The upper mounting is a surface-mounted flange screwed into the coachroof (drill holes with the companionway slide closed, use short screws and bed them with silicone). The lower mounting fastens in the same manner to the galley counter top. You can further dress up the pole with a nice wrap of dacron line from top to bottom.

Handy Holder
Submitted by: Dave Peffer	Hull #20	10-18-98
Subject: Cabin
A swing-down white plastic tray/drawer that mounts easily under the medicine cabinet to hold small items such as milady’s makeup, wallet and change, car keys and whatever. It has positive detents in the up and down position. It is available from ABC, Inc, 1-800-877-4797

Cabin Vacuum
Submitted by: Dave Peffer	Hull #20	10-18-98
Subject: Cabin
For about $25.00 M&E Marine, 1-800-541-6501, sells a 12V "Wet & Dry" vacuum. It reaches every inch of the cabin sole from the plug on the power panel. Now you can get the head sole REALLY clean. Light in weight, it fits in any under-seat locker.

Portlight Covers
Submitted by: Dave Peffer	Hull #20	10-18-98
Subject: Cabin
Peek-a-Boo covers for portlights (the ones that don’t open). Custom fit to each window, one panel is fixed and one slides back and forth. Both panels have alternating vertical opaque and clear stripes that provide privacy or the view, as you wish. We discovered the need for this one night tied up at a friend’s low dock. The gang sitting on the dock had ringside seats as we got ready for bed. They are available from ABC, Inc, 1-800-877-4797

Cabin Fans
Submitted by: Dave Peffer	Hull #20	10-18-98
Subject: Cabin
You will want cabin fans in many places, and the Hella turbo-fans draw so little power that it is reasonable to do this. The fan(s) in the v-berth should be installed as far forward as possible blowing aft, promoting airflow through the boat. One excellent spot in the main saloon is just forward of the chart table, where it can blow across the head and shoulders of the navigator, then across to the galley, where it blows heat from the stove away from the cook. Other locations will suggest themselves. We have three fans in the aft cabin. On our boat there was a free ‘Cabin Fans’ switch on the panel.

Night Lights Below
Submitted by: Dave Peffer	Hull #20	10-18
Subject: Cabin
Gotta have ‘em. Even the red light over the galley hurts night vision from the cockpit. We added two night lights: one in the head next to and six inches above the seat of the commode below the sink, and one on the curve at the aft end of the starboard settee just above the cabin sole and just inboard of the navigator’s chair hinge support. When installing the latter be sure to remove the settee cushion base (only six or eight screws hold it down) to find the right spot for the light and to avoid drilling a hole in the holding tank, which fits snugly into this corner! You will find a simple electrician’s snake invaluable in such electrical installations. For some reason these lights are hard to find, but I got some from M&E Marine. You may have to get slip-on red covers for the bulbs, which I got from my marina chandlery.

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"Head" Support/Storage Rack
Submitted by: Ted Sholl	Hull #357	8-1-02
Subject: Cabin
To solve the problem of toilet seat in the head going too far open and stretching its hinges too much, we decided to install a teak book rack as shown in West Marine catalog page 810 ( a teak paperback book holder works just as well but is not in the 2002 catalog). We attached 2 L Brackets (5-1/2 in) from Home Depot with stainless screws and attached the book rack. We placed the brackets so the seat would contact the rack and keep it in a more or less vertical position, and in the bargain we got lots of extra storage space for toiletries. Cost of rack plus hardware was about $55. (Not to mention $100 for a cordless high speed drill to drill the holes.). Warren Elliot asked a few questions of Ted, and here's his response: Warren--re the book rack behind the head--I see that the new West Marine catalog does not list the rack I used--maybe discontinued this year but the dealer had one. The $69 version will work fine. I installed the L brackets vertically on the bulkhead behind--checking carefully, before drilling, for hoses, etc. My wife was able to reach back there to check. I put the brackets about 3 1/2 in from the ends of the rack, then screwed down through the rack with stainless screws into the holes in the L brackets. The back edge of the rack is under the lip formed by the sink (corian looking material). The seat actually tilts back about 20 degrees when open so we could sail with it up, although we always try to close it after we use it. (Also cuts down on complaints from females using the head.) The rack in this years catalog is a little larger but will still work fine. Ted

Dinette Table
Submitted by: Forrest Lott	Hull #90	8-1-02
Subject: Cabin
The May issue included a short description and photo by Forrest Lott of his smaller dinette table. I had a few questions, the answers to which didn't quite make publication deadline, so here they are. His picture showed a nice sketch of a sailboat centered in the table top. I wondered at Ted's artistry; however, he reported the sailboat figure is part of an acrylic dish that his wife found in Walmart! It's usually under a pile of chips! Oh well, just shows how different perspectives can be. I also inquired how Forrest swaps old and new table tops easily, and where the unused one is stored. It turns out that they leave the new one in place all the time as it is so convenient. The old one is stored under the vee berth cushions without the mounting flange, which is part of the new top. Forrest reports that when the kids visit and the are is needed as a bed, then the new table is simply lowered just below the level of the settee bottom, and the old table top is is laid right on the settee supports. No special hardware needed.

Shower Shelves
Submitted by: Bob Bierly	Hull #255	3-21-02
Subject: Cabin
Within the shower there is a hanging locker, ostensibly for hanging slickers and such. We concluded we needed a linen closet a lot more than a place to allow slickers to get moldy (no air circulation in that locker.) Consequently, I built two shelves into that locker giving us three levels of storage for towels, linens etc. The shelves are secured to cleats on each end and have finished wooden fiddles along the edge at the opening. Really gives us some storage space.

Aft Cabin Mirror
Submitted by: Bob Bierly	Hull #255	3-21-02
Subject: Cabin
I removed and reinstalled the aft cabin mirror on a cleat mounted on the underside of the steps and through the head wall. I now store screens, trays, between the back of the mirror and the bulkhead. I cut a 10” inspection port into the seat on the port side of the bed. The storage area inside is amazing. I installed a board between the storage area and the manufacturer-installed drawers at the foot of the bed to keep errant stored items from finding their way into the vicinity of the prop shaft coupling and stuffing box. That was the only thing I had to do to make this a very sizable long-term storage area. The side toward the fridge port side is left open. The storage is formed between the bulkhead, the head wall on the starboard end and the back of the mirror. The screens, etc. set on edge on the engine box. Depth is about 8 inches. The mirror is fastened at the top to two cleats thru bolted to the overhead; access is into the boxes along each side of the top step. The starboard side of the mirror is screwed to a piece of ž plywood about 6 inches wide and as long as the mirror, which is then fastened to the head bulkhead by placing two thru screws into it from the head. I have never had anything fall out of the storage area. The fiddle edge on the engine box keeps things from sliding out. I have on occasion put a throwable cushion in with the screens to keep them from rattling. I located the mirror such that the forward edge of the [engine] box just passes under the mirror and its support. That way I can lay the box on the aft berth and slide it back completely out of the way when I need access to the whole engine. I am currently using the actual top of the engine box for the storage shelf base. My reason is to get maximum height for storage of a screen that I made for the horizontal opening of the companionway. It would be simple to add a real semi or permanent bottom at the level of the bottom of the mirror by fastening another cleat to the bulkhead (as you suggested) and end fastening the aft edge of the shelf (along the rear of the mirror) thru the mirror frame itself. Such a shelf would reduce the height of the storage opening by about 6 to 8 inches but would obviate the need to remove stored items to open the engine box for maintenance. I may do this if I put a hinge in my companion- way screen(s) and if the other hatch screens will fit. My primary use is protected storage for screens and large trays for the galley.

Aft Cabin Bilge Storage
Submitted by: Bob Bierly	Hull #255	3-21-02
Subject: Cabin
Most folks have discovered the storage in the closed bilge’s just forward of the mast. Although some water could find its way into that space, it can easily be used for storage of canned goods, beer, wine etc. as it is. The other two bilge compartments can also be used for this kind of storage by placing a set of floorboards in each. [Older hull #’s have only two accessible bilge compartments-Ed]. The existing grid, which strengthens the boat, makes it possible to cut three boards each 6 ž by 16 ˝ for the aft compartment, which will rest on the turn of the bilge and be held in place by the grid and each other. The storage area, which results, is above the float switch and yields an area 21” by 16" by 15” high. The larger bilge compartment where the pump is located similarly can be bridged by two or three floor boards with suitable cutouts(s) to permit the bilge hoses to do their thing. The space is about the same as the rear one but the access is wider (10”) and hence more useful.

Main Cabin Shelves and Storage
Submitted by: Bob Bierly	Hull #255	3-21-02
Subject: Cabin
Recently, I built shelves at the navigation station to store my laptop computer, my inkjet printer, a 13” TV, a CD player and some incidental storage for CD’s etc. All of this is in the open space between the built in “radio” cabinet and the bulkhead forming the forward side of the nav station desk. The entire shelf system, really three interconnected shelves, rest on cleats screwed to the two bulkheads forming the space. By placing fiddles across the front edges of the shelves, the contents are secure in a seaway. It is amazing how much room there is in this area. BTW I also solved the problem several folks have reported of how to get the cover off the factory-installed radio space. I merely cut it in two pieces horizontally and covered the cut with a wood strip. I can now remove the lower half of the faceplate by removing the screws and slipping it out giving me access to the rear of the VHF and AM/FM/Tape player, which are installed in the upper half. The lower half is reserved for a single sideband when the budget and need is clearer.

Vee Berth Shelves
Submitted by: Bob Bierly	Hull #255	3-21-02
Subject: Cabin
I have constructed shelves along sides of the cabin above and resting upon the two inch wide shelves that the factory installed. My shelves are about 5 feet long, 12” deep, and with vertical separators about 10” high spaced about one foot centers end to end. Thereby, We have five one cubic foot pigeonholes filling the space between the somewhat useless pre-existing shelf and the overhead. The end pieces of the new shelves are thru-bolted into the windlass compartment at the bow end of each shelf and thru-bolted into the existing lockers at the aft end. The vee berth has no loss of sleeping area. BTW, the shelves can be removed with the removal of about eight bolts. In fact, these shelves were originally built for and installed in the Vee berth of a Catalina 34. The shelves were removed for resale, as the new owner did not want them.

Nav Station
Submitted by: Sid Systsma	Hull #242	3-21-02
Subject: Cabin
The Nav station is pretty standard, except it has a little shelf that hides the guts of the Link 2000R. The TV is a Sony, under-the-counter model. I chose the Sony because of all competing brands; it has the strongest connection system to the upper mounting bracket. One could, quite literally hang from it without causing a failure. I use the area on either side of the TV for the boat and engine manuals

TV & Book Storage
Submitted by: Ed and Sharyn Dahn	Hull 111	3-21-02
Subject: Cabin
One open project before our first cruise was to work out storage above the nav station for both the TV, video player, and books. This did not get done, and in the excitement of sailing for the first time the TV hit the deck. I am embarrassed to report that this happened not once, but three times. I must say that GE makes an extremely rugged TV , it still works perfectly, however, the cabin sole received a few nasty gouges. A book/TV retainer was made with the 1 ˝ inch oak ˝ round as shown below. Everything behind the retainer is secure and can be removed by lifting the item up and over the top.

Drop Leaf Salon Table
Submitted by: Jim Jaeschke	Hull 73	8-15-99
Subject: Cabin
Drop Leaf Salon Table After two seasons of cruising and having many guests over, Judy and I concluded that the table in the salon was great for eating, but took up a lot of room for getting together. For a while last summer, we took the table out of the salon and put it in the forward cabin. It opened up a lot of space. I started thinking about a compromise that led to this drop leaf table design for the salon. The concept is simple. Cut the table in three sections. Put it back together using hinges and drop leaf locks. Rather than experiment with this design on the actual table, I bought a piece of plywood and traced the table shape on it. I then cut out the plywood table and made the drop leaf version. This is not meant to be the final version but a prototype that we could further modify to get it as we wanted it. The first photo shows the start of the assembly process. It is a view of the back side of the plywood table cut into three sections. The cut out for the mast compression pole is plainly visible. The next photos show the table with the hinges and drop leave locks fully assembled in the flat and retracted positions. I bought the hinges and drop leaf locks at the local wood working store. I cut the piano hinges to fit. The drop leaf locks cost about $8 for a set of two. I used the round fitting that connects the table to the post from existing table. The next photos show Judy sitting in the salon with the leafs of the table in the dropped and opened positions. Also, they provide proof that the Sun does shine in May in Wisconsin. We are planning on trying it out for a while this summer. I will then modify the original table and cut it into the shape required.