Electrical & Electronic Page

Electrical & Electronics Page

Important: The opinions expressed here are those of the individual contributors to these pages, and not those of the Catalina 380 International Association or Catalina Yachts, Inc.

It is also important to note the hull number of the boat referenced in the comments by the owners. Catalina is continually making changes to the design of the boats. Changes that were made on an older or newer boat by an owner may not be needed on your boat.

Water Electrical Generation

Submitted by: Mike McIntyre Hull # 233 11-5-02

Subject: Electrical & Electronics

Being a sailboat owner, I truly dislike having to run the engine during good sailing conditions. Bringing our boat home to Portland, OR from our summer cruising grounds in Washington's San Juan Islands and the Canadian Gulf Islands usually offers such conditions, once we round Cape Flattery and head out into the Pacific and down the Washington coast. It's a 30-hour broad reach in 17-knot northwesterlies followed by two days of spinnaker run up the Columbia River. We do it short handed - the autopilot is very necessary. Unfortunately, at about 65% of battery charge with the stock Exide 4D marine house battery bank (wired in parallel), the autopilot starts complaining like a series wound DC motor will when it's getting more of its power from current than from voltage. With the refrigeration cycling at about 33% and the autopilot working hard in heavy seas, we consume an average of 8 amps during the day and 10 amps at night with the radar on, which will take the battery bank from full charge to 65% in about 16 hours.

Of the alternative energy sources we could use, a water-powered generator seemed like the best alternative. Solar panels are laughable in the Pacific Northwest, even in summer. And most brands of wind generators need at least 15 knots of apparent wind to produce any current at all; Io needs something that will generate power when sailing off the wind, and besides, most wind generators when working are almost as loud as the Yanmar.

Water generators come in two styles. A couple of manufacturers (Ferris and Ampair) offer a unit that mounts on the stern pulpit rail. They trail a 100 ft line with a propeller on it. Torsion in the propeller line turns the generator mounted on the rail. The motion is stopped and the line is brought in by heaving-to or sliding a snuffing cone down the line over the propeller. Scott Brear (C380 #31, Samantha) has one of these units and swears by it. Because Io has a dinghy on davits and we are constantly maneuvering around loose kelp beds and crab pots in the NW, an all-in-one transom mount unit was the logical choice.

Ampair makes a unit, the Aquair UW that mounts on a fixed 3-foot pole attached to the transom. According to Ampair's specs, the unit will generate about an amp per knot of boat speed and cause 80 lbs of drag at 9 knots. When I called Gerry Douglas [Chief Engineer @ Catalina] to find out if it was o.k. to put 80 lbs of drag and 240 ft-lbs of torque on the transom, he practically laughed at me. The only caution I received was that the transom is finished with a layer of marine filler between the GRP and the gelcoat - the boat may experience cracking in the gelcoat based upon uneven flexing of the GRP in that area.

The mounting design came entirely from the stainless steel artist, Tavo Gonzales [a local specialist]. I merely specified that I wanted to be able to remove the unit and mounting arm (by sitting in the dinghy) for island hopping, and I wanted to be able to set it in place quickly with a pin before securing it with bolts. Based upon Gerry Douglas's concern about uneven stresses, I asked for a big mounting plate and an equally large backing plate. Also, because the boat tends to rise in the bow a bit under sail, I had Sr. Gonzales angle the mounting arm so that it sits back about 3 degrees at the dock. He came up with a great design - the anodized aluminum arm is held to the stainless steel mounting using handmade UHMW [polyethylene] bushings [see photos 1 & 2].

Although it's not readily apparent from the accompanying photograph, he matched the compound angles of the transom perfectly, including my 3-degree sweep.

When it came time to mount it, we discovered why Gerry Douglas was so humored: the 2-inch bolts we bought were too short to give enough purchase for the bottom four mounting holes in the area where the hull is glassed to the transom; the GRP is at least 1.75" thick in that area. Sr. Gonzales had to put 3 bends in the backing plate to get it to fit snugly to the inside of the transom around the bottom GRP bulge.

Electrically, the Aquair UW comes with a sealed-in 10' four wire cable and a 4" square heatsink with potted-in rectifier bridge. I installed the heatsink on a piece of marine plywood epoxied to the inside of the transom, and used an IP68 rated Bulgin 900-series Buccaneer connector set (available online from standard industrial catalog houses like Newark and Allied) for the thru-deck connection. Ampair sells a companion voltage regulator, which I mounted behind the electrical panel. It is a cutout-type, disconnecting the generator from the battery bank when the voltage rises above 13.7V. The Aquair UW does not require a load resistor bank to dissipate energy when disconnected from the battery. Even though the regulator has a built-in 10A fuse, I put a fuse between the regulator and the positive distribution point of Io's very non-stock electrical system. Many thanks for great advice to the vendor of the unit, Jack Csenge of Jack Rabbit Marine, even though I chose to ignore most of it!

We had an excellent opportunity to test the installation on our way North this year. A storm off California gave us rare Southerly winds off the Washington coast for part of our trip. After 15 hours of sailing under full electronic navigation, we were only down 12 AH. The only downside is that the unit makes a humming noise and steals about a half-knot of boat speed when under load. When the generator is disconnected from the battery, the hum gets higher pitched, but lower in volume and drag is negligible - the extra fuse [presumably a circuit breaker/switch- ed] I added provides the disconnect which works great to reduce the drag in light air!

The system definitely receives our "Seal of Approval"

Additional info on the water generator: weight 28 lbs, size 12.5" blade diameter, unit about 18" long. Cost about $1600 excluding Mike's labor

Lightning Protection Follow UP (See Article Below)

Submitted By: Warren Elliott Hull # 44 11-5-02

Subject: Electrical & Electronic

This is a follow up to my article in the August Compass. I had originally intended this space simply to mention some additional items on this subject, but recent events have forced a change, as you'll see below. Sail magazine [Aug. '02] contains two appropriate articles; one of them suggests putting portable electronics in the oven when a storm is likely--probably a good idea. Note however, that the door seals are non-conductive; a couple of rolled strips of aluminum foil wedged into the door/frame gap should help.

Now to bigger news, at least to me. A few weeks after my lightning protection article was published, I got zapped!! This has to be the ultimate irony! And my external protection system was not in place! My only excuse: no significant storms were predicted. Man, did NOAA and local TV [and me] ever miss this one, as we had a strong storm with a lot of lightning. At the time, we were on a mooring with no other boats nearby: a perfect sitting duck. Result: Admiral Jeanne and I were not hurt, there is no apparent damage to My Bride II [the boat has been pulled], but some masthead stuff, most of the electronics and the bilge pump are shot--the yard is checking everything at this time, and the insurance adjuster has made an appearance, and has ok'd unstepping the mast.

A few thoughts/conclusions from all this: first, this type of situation is probably the major reason to have a permanent [inboard is the standard type] lightning protection system. Would that have reduced the damage? Probably yes: some of the electronics would have survived but, of course, we'll never really know. Second, I'll obviously be much more "proactive" deploying my protection system in the future.

Third, on the brighter side, in the unlikely event this ever happens again to my boat ["Lightning never strikes twice........"!], at least they'll be a without/with protection comparison available, albeit approximate. Lastly, perhaps this situation will allow an opportunity to upgrade electronics. After all, there has to be some good in every situation!

Lightning Protection

Submitted By: Warren Elliott Hull # 44 8-5-02

Subject: Electrical & Electronic

There's been a good deal of discussion on this topic in many places, including our Sailnet email discussion group. I have my own opinions [these are not endorsed by Catalina], generated by many years working with antennas/electronics for military aircraft. However, as lightning protection is so uncertain -- there are no guarantees -- it's a good idea to review some reference material, so you can make a so-called informed decision as to what, if anything, to do. This whole topic can be pretty controversial: I invite [as always] any comments, contrary or not.

The basic reference is the ABYC lightning protection standards [section E-4], which are included in your C380/390 manual [note that a 1998 change requires minimum grounding/bonding conductors to be #6]; it's also available at www.abycinc.org. Another reference is Professor E. Thomson's [U. Fla.] extensive website at www.thomson.ece.ufl/lightning/. On the latter, you can download an article that gives a nice summary of his research and recommendations. Also, take a look at our C380/390 website, where Jim Jaeschke, our Secretary/Treasurer, has written a relevant installation article [see Technical Section, Electrical/Electronics Page]. Lastly, see Cruising World Dec. 2001.

The following approach is aimed principally at captain's who have not done anything about lightning protection, and have probably wondered what to do. Please note two important points: [1] statistics on boats that have been struck show more damage for boats without some protection as compared to those with protection [see Thomson] and, [2] contrary to "semi-popular" opinion, there is no evidence that adding a grounding system increases the probability of receiving a lightning strike. So, let's do something! The technique described here is very easy to implement, and may offer a lot "bang for the bucks" [this may not be a good simile!]-- so no more excuses! This approach is also mentioned in my boat's Catalina handbook, par. 6.0, #2.

Keep Currents Outside

Because aircraft are so susceptible to lightning strikes and negative results potentially so disastrous, great emphasis is placed on lightning protection, specifically keeping the resulting high currents on the outside of the vehicle; this approach theoretically eliminates interior damage and, in the practical sense, it works. Obviously, with a conducting skin, an airplanes configuration is much more amenable to this approach than are our sailboats. But we do have a "thinned" skin in the sense of our stays & shrouds. Therefore, if they are grounded to the water outside the hull, then current generated by lightning striking the masthead [or vhf antenna there] has some probability of entering the water never having entered our boat. If this happens [nothing is sure here!], then it seems to me there's much less likely a chance of significant damage to people, hull, or equipment inside the cabin.

Grounding Techniques

To ground the stays and shrouds, some captains use battery cables, with one end clamped to a chain plate, and the other tossed into the water. Obviously, this is typically a temporary setup, at least for the shrouds, as their grounding cables would be in the way to anyone walking forward on deck. On the other hand, it's so easy to deploy. In some situations I prefer chain, as standard anchor chain, rather than battery cables/clamps, is much less susceptible to salt-water corrosion.

At any rate, the idea is to deploy the [upper & mid] shroud ground straps only under impending storm conditions, and perhaps anytime your boat is docked, anchored or moored. A forward grounding chain, attached to the stay chainplate, can be left in place virtually all the time, unless you find it scrapes on the hull when underway, in which case it can conveniently be stored in the chain locker. Aft grounding, attached to one or preferably both of the split backstays, would definitely rub on the hull, so this is another temporary ground location, unless you can work out some way of not messing-up the transom.

The second line of defense with this approach is to add grounding of the mast base and the lower shrouds/chainplates. This is because of the very large electro-magnetic fields associated with lightning and it's propensity to induce large currents in nearby conductors, particularly those that are parallel. Another battery cable clamped near the bottom of the mast and one of the upper/mid chainplates should do it; here the battery cable should be just the right length: this conductor should be as straight as possible. Bonding together the three chainplates on each side is a bit trickier: either two special, short 3-clamp cables can be used externally, or they can be permanently connected by heavy cable immediately under the deck. I know this is inside the boat, but only barely inside, and is not in an area like a wet bilge, subject to significant corrosion potential.

Battery Cables vs. Chain

As mentioned above, I sometimes prefer chain, because of the potential salt-water corrosion to [mostly] copper battery cables/clamps. A concern here is the questionable conductivity of chain, given the steel makeup and potential resistance between links. However, the idea here is that any conductor acts as a "guide" to lightning [at least some think so!], with some current in the conductor and some in the surrounding ionized air; the better the conductor, the more energy would normally enter that conductor and less would be in the air. However, as we're talking external [to boat] use of chain, it's less important that all current be fully "contained". Conversely, for lightning grounding inside your boat, NEVER use chain or any questionable conductor and NEVER have any poor connections.

A reasonable compromise re cable/chain is to use battery cables for the shrouds, where they would normally be temporary and therefore less corrosion-likely. I would also suggest that they be rinsed in fresh water and sprayed with WD-40 after each use; still they may need replacement more often than you'd like. Another idea is to clip a 3-foot length of chain to the lower cable clamp, thus keeping the copper out of the water. Of course, you'd need short [about 4-feet] battery cables.

Length Submersed

How much chain/cable in the water? ABYC suggests that a square foot conducting area is sufficient to dissipate a typical lightning strike in salt water [much more in fresh water]. For a 5/16" diameter battery cable, this translates to a length of about 12 feet, maybe a bit less allowing for a clamp --not at all practical. If a full-size plate can be included, then a grounding cable only need be long enough to get the plate submerged.   5/16" chain has more surface area/length; about five feet length in the water has a square foot area. That's still a bit much--I compromise with about half that. Again, adding a plate reduces the need for length in the water. However, any plates used are probably more likely to scrape against the hull, especially at a "rolly" anchorage, so consider that in your design.

What To Do?

There are three principal categories of lightning-protected boats: [1] those with no protection, [2] those with external grounding, such as described above, and [3] those with internal grounding. The vast majority seems to be split between [1] and [3]; the reason the internal method is as popular is probably because it's permanent: you can't forget to implement it as might be the case for [2].

I don't know of any evidence [except for aircraft/external] indicating which grounding method is better [obviously both together is better]. Also, there is some evidence showing that adding grounding does not increase the likelihood of receiving a lightning strike. So, if you've been putting off adding internal grounding because it's difficult to implement, then consider the external approach: it can be added in minutes [maybe an hour or two, allowing for parts shopping time], and may provide a significant degree of personnel/boat safety. At least it should make you feel better while hunkering down during a big storm.

Internal Grounding: Be Careful

A caution on the other method: grounding inside your boat [eg: mast/compression post to keel]. Once having implemented some sort of internal ground, theoretically lightning currents will be encouraged to follow that path, even if the ground path is not perfect. So, with very high currents inside, where people may be and where the hull is, it is imperative to make that connection "robust", to say the least. This means that grounding cables must be very heavy [the thickest battery cable or copper straps that can be fit; # 6 minimum per ABYC], and the connections essentially perfect. Consider a lightning strike delivering 100,000 amps of current [typical in military aircraft work], then a connection with a resistance of only 0.1 ohms [very tiny in the electronics field] will end up with 10,000 volts across it, enough for some serious damage. So, make sure those connections are "squeaky clean", perhaps disassembling and cleaning at least once per season. Corrosion, a common source of resistance, is especially likely on keel bolts because of bilge moisture; inspect this lightning ground connection regularly, particularly if you have a wet bilge.

I mention keel bolts, because the keel is the grounding "plate" most often used [Prof. Thomson says this is OK even if the keel is encapsulated in some fiberglass]. The first line of defense here is to connect the bottom of the compression post [which is "connected" to the mast via the mast step]. The next step is grounding the shroud tierods, followed by forward and aft stay chainplates. The next priority is to "bond" together [and tie to ground] as much of the large metal items as possible; for example: the aft pulpit and Edson pedestal. The idea here is to provide a "short circuit" between them that reduces [hopefully to zero] the voltage which might otherwise appear between them due to side flashes and very high fields.   Lastly, for the best chance of saving electronics such as the VHF, I suggest disconnecting the antenna and shorting the radio's input [short circuit type RF connector preferred]; meanwhile, ground the antenna cable well. But don't play with any of this if lightning is imminent!

I intended this section to serve as a caution regarding the need for careful grounding connections inside the boat, so it is rather cursory regarding grounding installation. Therefore please refer to the ABYC Standards, Professor Thomson or any other expert's info before implementing any of this.

Conclusions: Safety First

Personnel safety is, of course, of utmost importance in all of this. That's the main reason the keep-it-on-the-outside approach appeals to me: anyone on board during a lightning storm is likely to be in the cabin, or could go there, where they will be further from likely high currents and/or voltages as compared to internal grounding. This also works for boat and equipment survival. Of course, this assumes any strike currents will follow the intended paths, but nothing is certain! The other aspect of safety is to keep away from metal, such as the wheel, chainplate tierods, etc. during a storm.

It seems like I've spent enough time on this subject......so, consider what you've read, maybe carry a couple of battery cables at-the-ready, and enjoy your C380/390's: great boats in any weather.

Genset Installation

Submitted By: Tom McMahon Hull # 29 8-1-02

Subject: Electrical & Electronic

I recently had the Panda 4200 installed. It is in the starboard lazarette, as close to centerline as possible and oriented with the long axis of the genset fore and aft. This allows me (6' 2" and not the most limber person in the world) to sit alongside it, remove the covers and access all the user maintenance items. The genset is mounted on two engine-mount-like stringers, which are glassed into the hull (avoid any mount on top of a solid board - it makes the entire hull into a drum!). The optional Panda soft motor mounts are installed on the stringers, and the Panda case is then bolted to those mounts. I have the Raymarine 6000 autopilot, and the genset does not interfere with it.

The installer modified the case so that I can change the oil filter (strainer) without disconnecting the internal part of the unit from the case and jacking it up (the procedure described in the Panda manual). I think this is a major improvement, and one I never would have thought of. Frankly, Panda should modify all their cases - having to partially disassemble the unit just to change the oil filter is ridiculous! Otherwise, I would never be able to change the filter without help - probably a few hours of a mechanics time. The modification consisted of cutting a hole in the lower genset case. The hole is lined up with the strainer access point and has a metal cover which screws on to close the hole in normal operation.

I only have 15 hours on the unit. So far, so good. Like another poster to the Sailnet 380 group said, the unit is very noisy in the aft cabin. I expected that so I am not too disappointed. With aft cabin doors closed and AC units on, it is very quiet in the main cabin - hardly noticeable in the vee berth.

I have tried some insulation like that used in the engine compartment in an attempt to cut the noise, but have not had much success. The basic noise mechanism seems to be vibration from the one lung engine coupling into the boat’s structure. Panda offers an intake muffler, which is supposed to help, but I have heard from others that it is of little value. The noise outside the boat is very low and should not be a problem to neighbors in an anchorage. Our plan is to run the genset to cool the boat and then shut down at bedtime. That should solve all our noise concerns.

We have two AC units - one 16K and one 7K. The genset runs both without complaining. No startup issues. In the heat mode though, it will overload if both units are running, which usually happens after about 30 minutes. The Panda factory modified the unit with a recently redesigned capacitor bank, but it was zero help. Still, I have been impressed with the response of the factory. They are very helpful and cooperative. They modified the capacitor bank at no cost; they even paid for the shipping.

The genset runs both AC units in cooling mode and the water heater very easily. The battery charger and AC are equally fine. Depending on charger draw though, it overloads with all AC units, charger and water heater. This is no problem for us, and power management is very easy.

Two recommendations: be very careful about picking your installer! I got lucky and had a gem - Marine Technical Services from Deale, MD. He worked with me on layout, and quality was impeccable. Experience, especially with installations in tight places like our 380s, is essential.

Next, think through the power distribution. I needed a second dock AC power connection – my understanding is that the code requires this because my total current draw with all ac units, water heater, etc. exceeds 30 amps. The installer put the new 30-amp plug in place of the existing TV/phone connection, since we have no need for those. He wired up the panels so that I can run one conditioner from each AC input. If only one AC input is available at a transient marina, I can throw a transfer switch and feed both circuits from the single input. I still can only draw a total of 30A, but it does allow both conditioners plus the heater/charger to be run from one input. While running the genset, I can also combine both circuits, so the genset can power all AC circuits on the boat. All of this was accomplished by the addition of two Blue Sea Systems switch/transfer panels and one Blue Sea Systems AC voltmeter/four circuit breaker panel. These panels and the Panda control panel are now mounted facing aft on the side of the aft cabin, starboard hanging locker. Only a portion of one shelf inside the locker was lost to the panels.

Electrical Energy Independence

Submitted By: Earl Poe Hull # 140 3-20-02

Subject: Electrical & Electronic

S/Y Angel's Wings, hull number140, spends a great deal of the sailing season anchored in remote coves on a besutiful Kentucky lake. Her captain and first mate are people who hate to run the engine which tends to ruin the quiet, summer lifestyle, not to mention scare away the roosting bald eagles, osprey, and deer. Supplemental sources of electricity had to be found. over the past two seasons, we have added solar panels, a wind generator, and replaced our tired 4D batteries with four six volt golf cart batteries.

First we chose to mount two flexible Uni-Solar model #USF-32 solar panels on top of the canvas dodger (photo 1). We ran the wiring through the coach roof (photo 2), down to the starboard wire chase, and back to a solar regulator mounted behind the circuit breaker panel. From there the wires were run to the batteries. During the summer months, this produces about 4 amps.

Unexpectedly, after a late summer lightning strike, we had to replace all of our electronics. At that time we elected to replace our 4D'S with six volt batteries from Sam's Club. The batteries are a nice fit and are a lot easier to handle. At $45.00 each, they are a lot cheaper than new 4D'S. They also add about 60 amp- hours to our battery capacity.

Next, after a trip to the Annapolis boat show, we added a Rutland 913 wind generator (see photo 3) mounted on a stainless steel pole on the starboard side of the stern. It is thru-bolted on the transom(photo 4) and supported with a U-bolt with rubber bushings (photo 5) at the upper stern-seat railing. We have only seen a small amount of movement in the pole during severe weathert, but it is acceptable. We installed a regulator with internal shunt in the starboard lazarette (photo 6) outboard from the spare propane tank locker and ran the wiring similar to the solar panels. Because we installed this the last few weeks of the season, we don't have hard numbers, but we are expecting to get 3 1/2 amps from the Rutland in 15 knots of wind and 8 amps in 25 knots; it starts generating in 5 knots of wind.

Three years ago we added a group 27 starting battery, Balmar 91 -100 alternator and Max Charge 3-Step regulator, and are now thinking of adding an additional bank of batteries under the starboard setee. Ww will do this by replacing the holding tank with a Lectra/San treatment system which has a much smaller footprint.

The solar panels are mounted only to the canvas with (I think) the toggles included with the panels; I slit holes in the canvas & sealed with silicone.   No leaks in two seasons. I do remove them during winter lay-up.


The wind generator is one of the quietest around, according to magazine articles; in 50 knots of wind, there a "hum" that you can hear in the aft berth, but the refrigerator is MUCH more annoying.

The pole is a custom unit I had done by local commercial kitchen fabricator shop (they make stainless steel tops, etc.) in 316 stainless with #4 brushed finish. I can send you sketches of the mounting bracket if you'd like. The golf cart batteries are the "GC 2" version; no additional maintenance than the 4D's, but will take a lot more abuse. The battery access hatch was simply cut with a fine-toothed bandsaw and gave a very clean edge; I added a flush pull from West Marine (#255729) to match the other hatches. Before cruising I'll probably just screw it down like the floorboards.

Spotlight Idea
Submitted By: Dave Peffer	Hull # 20	10-18-98
Subject: Electrical & Electronic
Pelican makes a self-contained spotlight (4 D cells) which puts out 60,000 candlepower. It even works under water for diving to cut away that pesky dinghy painter you wound around your prop shaft. And it can be carried forward of the jib to light up that elusive buoy without wiping out your night vision for 20 minutes. West Marine carries these

Talk About Radios
Submitted By: Dave Peffer	Hull # 20	10-18-98
Subject: Electrical & Electronic
Motorola makes Talkabout radios. These use the new Family Service Band, so don’t clog up the marine VHF channels. An optional voice activated headset with adjustable boom mike allows totally hands-free operation. When one has both hands fully occupied with setting up the anchor it is possible to communicate between the wheel and the foredeck without any problems at all. These are nice for keeping tabs on the dinghy, too. Range is about two miles.

Head Level Sensor
Submitted By: Dave Peffer	Hull # 20	10-18-98
Subject: Electrical & Electronic
It is very nice, indeed, to have a positive monitoring system for the holding tank and at least one water tank. A new system from AMS (West Marine model #503402) is easy to install, and requires drilling NO HOLES in the tanks. You glue two copper strips on the side of the non-metallic tank, press on a sensor, lead the wiring and install the readout wherever it is convenient. I put mine next to the commode just below the sink, where it is easy to reach for installation. I took power off the night light just below it, but it can be powered from the panel, too. I also monitor the aft water tank, and it will monitor one more. I saw no gain in monitoring the center tank, so the extra is held in reserve.

GPS Interference
Submitted By: John Estes	Hull # 142	10-18-98
Subject: Electrical & Electronic
I finally got my problem solved. When we ordered our new C380, we ordered it with a Garmin 215 GPS with Differential built in. Well, the GPS worked fine but no differential. The dealer and the West Marine rep tried every thing but still no workie. (I forgot to tell you I also had a inverter installed as well) By luck the rigger who was working on my boat turned off the inverter and lo and be hold the differential started to work. So, after rewiring, trying a new GPS and new antennas, it was just interference from the inverter. So, I do not use the inverter when under way.

Mast and Shroud Grounding
Submitted By: Jim Jaeschke	Hull # 73	9-98
Subject: Electrical & Electronic
For those of you who did not order the bonding package, here is one idea as to a way to ground the base of the mast and the shroud wires to the keel. There is of course no method in which protection from lightening can be guaranteed. Indeed, there is much debate as to the way that will provide the most protection. On Electra, we decided to ground (connect) as much of the metal in the boat as possible to the keel. On the lower part of the keel, I have mounted, drilled and taped, four small Dyna-Plates to make as good an electrical connection to the water as possible. In fresh water, this connection to the water is the weakest link in the protection system. Spread the Dyna-Plates out on the keel on both sides so that the electricity can flow in separate paths to the water as much as possible. Since salt water is so conductive, one or two Dyna-Plates maybe all that is necessary. The idea is to use the lead in the keel as the wire to the Dyna-Plates and the keel bolts as the connection to the lead. The bottom of the compression tube below the mast has an aluminum plate with screws that locate the plate to the hull. I connected a wire, #6 braided, to this plate and ran it to the closest keel bolt. The connection to the keel bolt was made using a 1" nut with washers. The base of the shrouds is connected to a large aluminum angle plate that is fiber glassed into the hull. This plate is visible in the stern storage compartment behind the settee on each side of the boat. I drilled a 1 1/4" hole in the fiber glass in the storage compartment above the access hole to provide a straight shot to the plate. I then drilled a 1/4" hole in the aluminum plate using an extra long drill. I soldered 3, #10, wires to lugs and connected them to the plate using 1/4, 20 bolt. It was necessary to scrape the aluminum plate to get bare aluminum for the connection. Fishing the wires to the keel bolts was the hardest part. The starboard side was relatively easy since there is a small hole in the storage compartment that allowed the wires to be pushed behind the cabin liner and underneath the floor. It is necessary to remove the floor board forward of the battery compartment to fish these wires and get to the closest keel bolt. You will notice that there is a large number of wires running in this path to the navigation station. It is best to route the grounding wire as far a way from these wires as possible. Try to keep the wire away from the hull and minimize the number of bends. I used the keel bolt that is just below the end of the galley L for connecting both the port and starboard wires. The real challenge was to fish the port wires to the keel bolt. It was necessary to drill a hole in the bottom of the storage compartment below the aluminum angle plate. This allows the wire to be fished into the compartment by the middle water tank. Following the water hoses, the wires can be run into the space below the sinks. After removing the floor board by the sink, it is possible to route the wires underneath the floor boards to the keel bolt located at the end of the L of the galley. Follow the other wires that have been routed through the structural members that provide feed holes for the wire. I connected both the port and starboard shroud grounding wires to the keel bolt by first soldering them all together using a blow torch with lots of solder. This lump of solder and wires was then connected to the keel bolt using two hose clamps to clamp the wire to the bolt. I hope that I never have to report on how well this system worked. I feel better, however, that in a storm, the large metal rods in the cabin are connected to the keel. This should provide some protection to people sitting close to them in a storm.

GPS Cockpit Power
Submitted By: Dave Peffer	Hull # 20	8-98
Subject: Electrical & Electronic
Having the GPS mounted on the pedestal is convenient, especially if you have a 12V outlet to power it so you can keep the light on at night. There is not an outlet provided, so I added one. Using a Marinco 12VRC outlet with a rubber cover and a good seal, I placed it on the lower port quadrant on the side of the engine instrument pod, where it would be angled downward to prevent water running down into the barrel of the outlet or around the edge, should the seal fail. Be sure to check for interference with instruments inside the pod before drilling. Inside the pod is a connector block, and I was able to add the wires to appropriate slots on the block without crowding. Caution: the wiring is not heavy enough to support using the outlet for a cigarette lighter, and only low-drain items such as a GPS or cellular phone should be plugged in. This has been a delight for night races, as we have GPS coordinates for the marks.

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Water Electrical Generation
Submitted by: Mike McIntyre	Hull # 233	11-5-02
Subject: Electrical & Electronics
Being a sailboat owner, I truly dislike having to run the engine during good sailing conditions. Bringing our boat home to Portland, OR from our summer cruising grounds in Washington's San Juan Islands and the Canadian Gulf Islands usually offers such conditions, once we round Cape Flattery and head out into the Pacific and down the Washington coast. It's a 30-hour broad reach in 17-knot northwesterlies followed by two days of spinnaker run up the Columbia River. We do it short handed - the autopilot is very necessary. Unfortunately, at about 65% of battery charge with the stock Exide 4D marine house battery bank (wired in parallel), the autopilot starts complaining like a series wound DC motor will when it's getting more of its power from current than from voltage. With the refrigeration cycling at about 33% and the autopilot working hard in heavy seas, we consume an average of 8 amps during the day and 10 amps at night with the radar on, which will take the battery bank from full charge to 65% in about 16 hours. Of the alternative energy sources we could use, a water-powered generator seemed like the best alternative. Solar panels are laughable in the Pacific Northwest, even in summer. And most brands of wind generators need at least 15 knots of apparent wind to produce any current at all; Io needs something that will generate power when sailing off the wind, and besides, most wind generators when working are almost as loud as the Yanmar. Water generators come in two styles. A couple of manufacturers (Ferris and Ampair) offer a unit that mounts on the stern pulpit rail. They trail a 100 ft line with a propeller on it. Torsion in the propeller line turns the generator mounted on the rail. The motion is stopped and the line is brought in by heaving-to or sliding a snuffing cone down the line over the propeller. Scott Brear (C380 #31, Samantha) has one of these units and swears by it. Because Io has a dinghy on davits and we are constantly maneuvering around loose kelp beds and crab pots in the NW, an all-in-one transom mount unit was the logical choice. Ampair makes a unit, the Aquair UW that mounts on a fixed 3-foot pole attached to the transom. According to Ampair's specs, the unit will generate about an amp per knot of boat speed and cause 80 lbs of drag at 9 knots. When I called Gerry Douglas [Chief Engineer @ Catalina] to find out if it was o.k. to put 80 lbs of drag and 240 ft-lbs of torque on the transom, he practically laughed at me. The only caution I received was that the transom is finished with a layer of marine filler between the GRP and the gelcoat - the boat may experience cracking in the gelcoat based upon uneven flexing of the GRP in that area. The mounting design came entirely from the stainless steel artist, Tavo Gonzales [a local specialist]. I merely specified that I wanted to be able to remove the unit and mounting arm (by sitting in the dinghy) for island hopping, and I wanted to be able to set it in place quickly with a pin before securing it with bolts. Based upon Gerry Douglas's concern about uneven stresses, I asked for a big mounting plate and an equally large backing plate. Also, because the boat tends to rise in the bow a bit under sail, I had Sr. Gonzales angle the mounting arm so that it sits back about 3 degrees at the dock. He came up with a great design - the anodized aluminum arm is held to the stainless steel mounting using handmade UHMW [polyethylene] bushings [see photos 1 & 2]. Although it's not readily apparent from the accompanying photograph, he matched the compound angles of the transom perfectly, including my 3-degree sweep. When it came time to mount it, we discovered why Gerry Douglas was so humored: the 2-inch bolts we bought were too short to give enough purchase for the bottom four mounting holes in the area where the hull is glassed to the transom; the GRP is at least 1.75" thick in that area. Sr. Gonzales had to put 3 bends in the backing plate to get it to fit snugly to the inside of the transom around the bottom GRP bulge. Electrically, the Aquair UW comes with a sealed-in 10' four wire cable and a 4" square heatsink with potted-in rectifier bridge. I installed the heatsink on a piece of marine plywood epoxied to the inside of the transom, and used an IP68 rated Bulgin 900-series Buccaneer connector set (available online from standard industrial catalog houses like Newark and Allied) for the thru-deck connection. Ampair sells a companion voltage regulator, which I mounted behind the electrical panel. It is a cutout-type, disconnecting the generator from the battery bank when the voltage rises above 13.7V. The Aquair UW does not require a load resistor bank to dissipate energy when disconnected from the battery. Even though the regulator has a built-in 10A fuse, I put a fuse between the regulator and the positive distribution point of Io's very non-stock electrical system. Many thanks for great advice to the vendor of the unit, Jack Csenge of Jack Rabbit Marine, even though I chose to ignore most of it! We had an excellent opportunity to test the installation on our way North this year. A storm off California gave us rare Southerly winds off the Washington coast for part of our trip. After 15 hours of sailing under full electronic navigation, we were only down 12 AH. The only downside is that the unit makes a humming noise and steals about a half-knot of boat speed when under load. When the generator is disconnected from the battery, the hum gets higher pitched, but lower in volume and drag is negligible - the extra fuse [presumably a circuit breaker/switch- ed] I added provides the disconnect which works great to reduce the drag in light air! The system definitely receives our "Seal of Approval" Additional info on the water generator: weight 28 lbs, size 12.5" blade diameter, unit about 18" long. Cost about $1600 excluding Mike's labor

Lightning Protection Follow UP (See Article Below)
Submitted By: Warren Elliott	Hull # 44	11-5-02
Subject: Electrical & Electronic
This is a follow up to my article in the August Compass. I had originally intended this space simply to mention some additional items on this subject, but recent events have forced a change, as you'll see below. Sail magazine [Aug. '02] contains two appropriate articles; one of them suggests putting portable electronics in the oven when a storm is likely--probably a good idea. Note however, that the door seals are non-conductive; a couple of rolled strips of aluminum foil wedged into the door/frame gap should help. Now to bigger news, at least to me. A few weeks after my lightning protection article was published, I got zapped!! This has to be the ultimate irony! And my external protection system was not in place! My only excuse: no significant storms were predicted. Man, did NOAA and local TV [and me] ever miss this one, as we had a strong storm with a lot of lightning. At the time, we were on a mooring with no other boats nearby: a perfect sitting duck. Result: Admiral Jeanne and I were not hurt, there is no apparent damage to My Bride II [the boat has been pulled], but some masthead stuff, most of the electronics and the bilge pump are shot--the yard is checking everything at this time, and the insurance adjuster has made an appearance, and has ok'd unstepping the mast. A few thoughts/conclusions from all this: first, this type of situation is probably the major reason to have a permanent [inboard is the standard type] lightning protection system. Would that have reduced the damage? Probably yes: some of the electronics would have survived but, of course, we'll never really know. Second, I'll obviously be much more "proactive" deploying my protection system in the future. Third, on the brighter side, in the unlikely event this ever happens again to my boat ["Lightning never strikes twice........"!], at least they'll be a without/with protection comparison available, albeit approximate. Lastly, perhaps this situation will allow an opportunity to upgrade electronics. After all, there has to be some good in every situation!

Lightning Protection
Submitted By: Warren Elliott	Hull # 44	8-5-02
Subject: Electrical & Electronic
There's been a good deal of discussion on this topic in many places, including our Sailnet email discussion group. I have my own opinions [these are not endorsed by Catalina], generated by many years working with antennas/electronics for military aircraft. However, as lightning protection is so uncertain -- there are no guarantees -- it's a good idea to review some reference material, so you can make a so-called informed decision as to what, if anything, to do. This whole topic can be pretty controversial: I invite [as always] any comments, contrary or not. The basic reference is the ABYC lightning protection standards [section E-4], which are included in your C380/390 manual [note that a 1998 change requires minimum grounding/bonding conductors to be #6]; it's also available at www.abycinc.org. Another reference is Professor E. Thomson's [U. Fla.] extensive website at www.thomson.ece.ufl/lightning/. On the latter, you can download an article that gives a nice summary of his research and recommendations. Also, take a look at our C380/390 website, where Jim Jaeschke, our Secretary/Treasurer, has written a relevant installation article [see Technical Section, Electrical/Electronics Page]. Lastly, see Cruising World Dec. 2001. The following approach is aimed principally at captain's who have not done anything about lightning protection, and have probably wondered what to do. Please note two important points: [1] statistics on boats that have been struck show more damage for boats without some protection as compared to those with protection [see Thomson] and, [2] contrary to "semi-popular" opinion, there is no evidence that adding a grounding system increases the probability of receiving a lightning strike. So, let's do something! The technique described here is very easy to implement, and may offer a lot "bang for the bucks" [this may not be a good simile!]-- so no more excuses! This approach is also mentioned in my boat's Catalina handbook, par. 6.0, #2. Keep Currents Outside Because aircraft are so susceptible to lightning strikes and negative results potentially so disastrous, great emphasis is placed on lightning protection, specifically keeping the resulting high currents on the outside of the vehicle; this approach theoretically eliminates interior damage and, in the practical sense, it works. Obviously, with a conducting skin, an airplanes configuration is much more amenable to this approach than are our sailboats. But we do have a "thinned" skin in the sense of our stays & shrouds. Therefore, if they are grounded to the water outside the hull, then current generated by lightning striking the masthead [or vhf antenna there] has some probability of entering the water never having entered our boat. If this happens [nothing is sure here!], then it seems to me there's much less likely a chance of significant damage to people, hull, or equipment inside the cabin. Grounding Techniques To ground the stays and shrouds, some captains use battery cables, with one end clamped to a chain plate, and the other tossed into the water. Obviously, this is typically a temporary setup, at least for the shrouds, as their grounding cables would be in the way to anyone walking forward on deck. On the other hand, it's so easy to deploy. In some situations I prefer chain, as standard anchor chain, rather than battery cables/clamps, is much less susceptible to salt-water corrosion. At any rate, the idea is to deploy the [upper & mid] shroud ground straps only under impending storm conditions, and perhaps anytime your boat is docked, anchored or moored. A forward grounding chain, attached to the stay chainplate, can be left in place virtually all the time, unless you find it scrapes on the hull when underway, in which case it can conveniently be stored in the chain locker. Aft grounding, attached to one or preferably both of the split backstays, would definitely rub on the hull, so this is another temporary ground location, unless you can work out some way of not messing-up the transom. The second line of defense with this approach is to add grounding of the mast base and the lower shrouds/chainplates. This is because of the very large electro-magnetic fields associated with lightning and it's propensity to induce large currents in nearby conductors, particularly those that are parallel. Another battery cable clamped near the bottom of the mast and one of the upper/mid chainplates should do it; here the battery cable should be just the right length: this conductor should be as straight as possible. Bonding together the three chainplates on each side is a bit trickier: either two special, short 3-clamp cables can be used externally, or they can be permanently connected by heavy cable immediately under the deck. I know this is inside the boat, but only barely inside, and is not in an area like a wet bilge, subject to significant corrosion potential. Battery Cables vs. Chain As mentioned above, I sometimes prefer chain, because of the potential salt-water corrosion to [mostly] copper battery cables/clamps. A concern here is the questionable conductivity of chain, given the steel makeup and potential resistance between links. However, the idea here is that any conductor acts as a "guide" to lightning [at least some think so!], with some current in the conductor and some in the surrounding ionized air; the better the conductor, the more energy would normally enter that conductor and less would be in the air. However, as we're talking external [to boat] use of chain, it's less important that all current be fully "contained". Conversely, for lightning grounding inside your boat, NEVER use chain or any questionable conductor and NEVER have any poor connections. A reasonable compromise re cable/chain is to use battery cables for the shrouds, where they would normally be temporary and therefore less corrosion-likely. I would also suggest that they be rinsed in fresh water and sprayed with WD-40 after each use; still they may need replacement more often than you'd like. Another idea is to clip a 3-foot length of chain to the lower cable clamp, thus keeping the copper out of the water. Of course, you'd need short [about 4-feet] battery cables. Length Submersed How much chain/cable in the water? ABYC suggests that a square foot conducting area is sufficient to dissipate a typical lightning strike in salt water [much more in fresh water]. For a 5/16" diameter battery cable, this translates to a length of about 12 feet, maybe a bit less allowing for a clamp --not at all practical. If a full-size plate can be included, then a grounding cable only need be long enough to get the plate submerged. 5/16" chain has more surface area/length; about five feet length in the water has a square foot area. That's still a bit much--I compromise with about half that. Again, adding a plate reduces the need for length in the water. However, any plates used are probably more likely to scrape against the hull, especially at a "rolly" anchorage, so consider that in your design. What To Do? There are three principal categories of lightning-protected boats: [1] those with no protection, [2] those with external grounding, such as described above, and [3] those with internal grounding. The vast majority seems to be split between [1] and [3]; the reason the internal method is as popular is probably because it's permanent: you can't forget to implement it as might be the case for [2]. I don't know of any evidence [except for aircraft/external] indicating which grounding method is better [obviously both together is better]. Also, there is some evidence showing that adding grounding does not increase the likelihood of receiving a lightning strike. So, if you've been putting off adding internal grounding because it's difficult to implement, then consider the external approach: it can be added in minutes [maybe an hour or two, allowing for parts shopping time], and may provide a significant degree of personnel/boat safety. At least it should make you feel better while hunkering down during a big storm. Internal Grounding: Be Careful A caution on the other method: grounding inside your boat [eg: mast/compression post to keel]. Once having implemented some sort of internal ground, theoretically lightning currents will be encouraged to follow that path, even if the ground path is not perfect. So, with very high currents inside, where people may be and where the hull is, it is imperative to make that connection "robust", to say the least. This means that grounding cables must be very heavy [the thickest battery cable or copper straps that can be fit; # 6 minimum per ABYC], and the connections essentially perfect. Consider a lightning strike delivering 100,000 amps of current [typical in military aircraft work], then a connection with a resistance of only 0.1 ohms [very tiny in the electronics field] will end up with 10,000 volts across it, enough for some serious damage. So, make sure those connections are "squeaky clean", perhaps disassembling and cleaning at least once per season. Corrosion, a common source of resistance, is especially likely on keel bolts because of bilge moisture; inspect this lightning ground connection regularly, particularly if you have a wet bilge. I mention keel bolts, because the keel is the grounding "plate" most often used [Prof. Thomson says this is OK even if the keel is encapsulated in some fiberglass]. The first line of defense here is to connect the bottom of the compression post [which is "connected" to the mast via the mast step]. The next step is grounding the shroud tierods, followed by forward and aft stay chainplates. The next priority is to "bond" together [and tie to ground] as much of the large metal items as possible; for example: the aft pulpit and Edson pedestal. The idea here is to provide a "short circuit" between them that reduces [hopefully to zero] the voltage which might otherwise appear between them due to side flashes and very high fields. Lastly, for the best chance of saving electronics such as the VHF, I suggest disconnecting the antenna and shorting the radio's input [short circuit type RF connector preferred]; meanwhile, ground the antenna cable well. But don't play with any of this if lightning is imminent! I intended this section to serve as a caution regarding the need for careful grounding connections inside the boat, so it is rather cursory regarding grounding installation. Therefore please refer to the ABYC Standards, Professor Thomson or any other expert's info before implementing any of this. Conclusions: Safety First Personnel safety is, of course, of utmost importance in all of this. That's the main reason the keep-it-on-the-outside approach appeals to me: anyone on board during a lightning storm is likely to be in the cabin, or could go there, where they will be further from likely high currents and/or voltages as compared to internal grounding. This also works for boat and equipment survival. Of course, this assumes any strike currents will follow the intended paths, but nothing is certain! The other aspect of safety is to keep away from metal, such as the wheel, chainplate tierods, etc. during a storm. It seems like I've spent enough time on this subject......so, consider what you've read, maybe carry a couple of battery cables at-the-ready, and enjoy your C380/390's: great boats in any weather.

Genset Installation
Submitted By: Tom McMahon	Hull # 29	8-1-02
Subject: Electrical & Electronic
I recently had the Panda 4200 installed. It is in the starboard lazarette, as close to centerline as possible and oriented with the long axis of the genset fore and aft. This allows me (6' 2" and not the most limber person in the world) to sit alongside it, remove the covers and access all the user maintenance items. The genset is mounted on two engine-mount-like stringers, which are glassed into the hull (avoid any mount on top of a solid board - it makes the entire hull into a drum!). The optional Panda soft motor mounts are installed on the stringers, and the Panda case is then bolted to those mounts. I have the Raymarine 6000 autopilot, and the genset does not interfere with it. The installer modified the case so that I can change the oil filter (strainer) without disconnecting the internal part of the unit from the case and jacking it up (the procedure described in the Panda manual). I think this is a major improvement, and one I never would have thought of. Frankly, Panda should modify all their cases - having to partially disassemble the unit just to change the oil filter is ridiculous! Otherwise, I would never be able to change the filter without help - probably a few hours of a mechanics time. The modification consisted of cutting a hole in the lower genset case. The hole is lined up with the strainer access point and has a metal cover which screws on to close the hole in normal operation. I only have 15 hours on the unit. So far, so good. Like another poster to the Sailnet 380 group said, the unit is very noisy in the aft cabin. I expected that so I am not too disappointed. With aft cabin doors closed and AC units on, it is very quiet in the main cabin - hardly noticeable in the vee berth. I have tried some insulation like that used in the engine compartment in an attempt to cut the noise, but have not had much success. The basic noise mechanism seems to be vibration from the one lung engine coupling into the boat’s structure. Panda offers an intake muffler, which is supposed to help, but I have heard from others that it is of little value. The noise outside the boat is very low and should not be a problem to neighbors in an anchorage. Our plan is to run the genset to cool the boat and then shut down at bedtime. That should solve all our noise concerns. We have two AC units - one 16K and one 7K. The genset runs both without complaining. No startup issues. In the heat mode though, it will overload if both units are running, which usually happens after about 30 minutes. The Panda factory modified the unit with a recently redesigned capacitor bank, but it was zero help. Still, I have been impressed with the response of the factory. They are very helpful and cooperative. They modified the capacitor bank at no cost; they even paid for the shipping. The genset runs both AC units in cooling mode and the water heater very easily. The battery charger and AC are equally fine. Depending on charger draw though, it overloads with all AC units, charger and water heater. This is no problem for us, and power management is very easy. Two recommendations: be very careful about picking your installer! I got lucky and had a gem - Marine Technical Services from Deale, MD. He worked with me on layout, and quality was impeccable. Experience, especially with installations in tight places like our 380s, is essential. Next, think through the power distribution. I needed a second dock AC power connection – my understanding is that the code requires this because my total current draw with all ac units, water heater, etc. exceeds 30 amps. The installer put the new 30-amp plug in place of the existing TV/phone connection, since we have no need for those. He wired up the panels so that I can run one conditioner from each AC input. If only one AC input is available at a transient marina, I can throw a transfer switch and feed both circuits from the single input. I still can only draw a total of 30A, but it does allow both conditioners plus the heater/charger to be run from one input. While running the genset, I can also combine both circuits, so the genset can power all AC circuits on the boat. All of this was accomplished by the addition of two Blue Sea Systems switch/transfer panels and one Blue Sea Systems AC voltmeter/four circuit breaker panel. These panels and the Panda control panel are now mounted facing aft on the side of the aft cabin, starboard hanging locker. Only a portion of one shelf inside the locker was lost to the panels.

Electrical Energy Independence
Submitted By: Earl Poe	Hull # 140	3-20-02
Subject: Electrical & Electronic
S/Y Angel's Wings, hull number140, spends a great deal of the sailing season anchored in remote coves on a besutiful Kentucky lake. Her captain and first mate are people who hate to run the engine which tends to ruin the quiet, summer lifestyle, not to mention scare away the roosting bald eagles, osprey, and deer. Supplemental sources of electricity had to be found. over the past two seasons, we have added solar panels, a wind generator, and replaced our tired 4D batteries with four six volt golf cart batteries. First we chose to mount two flexible Uni-Solar model #USF-32 solar panels on top of the canvas dodger (photo 1). We ran the wiring through the coach roof (photo 2), down to the starboard wire chase, and back to a solar regulator mounted behind the circuit breaker panel. From there the wires were run to the batteries. During the summer months, this produces about 4 amps. Unexpectedly, after a late summer lightning strike, we had to replace all of our electronics. At that time we elected to replace our 4D'S with six volt batteries from Sam's Club. The batteries are a nice fit and are a lot easier to handle. At $45.00 each, they are a lot cheaper than new 4D'S. They also add about 60 amp- hours to our battery capacity. Next, after a trip to the Annapolis boat show, we added a Rutland 913 wind generator (see photo 3) mounted on a stainless steel pole on the starboard side of the stern. It is thru-bolted on the transom(photo 4) and supported with a U-bolt with rubber bushings (photo 5) at the upper stern-seat railing. We have only seen a small amount of movement in the pole during severe weathert, but it is acceptable. We installed a regulator with internal shunt in the starboard lazarette (photo 6) outboard from the spare propane tank locker and ran the wiring similar to the solar panels. Because we installed this the last few weeks of the season, we don't have hard numbers, but we are expecting to get 3 1/2 amps from the Rutland in 15 knots of wind and 8 amps in 25 knots; it starts generating in 5 knots of wind. Three years ago we added a group 27 starting battery, Balmar 91 -100 alternator and Max Charge 3-Step regulator, and are now thinking of adding an additional bank of batteries under the starboard setee. Ww will do this by replacing the holding tank with a Lectra/San treatment system which has a much smaller footprint. The solar panels are mounted only to the canvas with (I think) the toggles included with the panels; I slit holes in the canvas & sealed with silicone. No leaks in two seasons. I do remove them during winter lay-up. The wind generator is one of the quietest around, according to magazine articles; in 50 knots of wind, there a "hum" that you can hear in the aft berth, but the refrigerator is MUCH more annoying. The pole is a custom unit I had done by local commercial kitchen fabricator shop (they make stainless steel tops, etc.) in 316 stainless with #4 brushed finish. I can send you sketches of the mounting bracket if you'd like. The golf cart batteries are the "GC 2" version; no additional maintenance than the 4D's, but will take a lot more abuse. The battery access hatch was simply cut with a fine-toothed bandsaw and gave a very clean edge; I added a flush pull from West Marine (#255729) to match the other hatches. Before cruising I'll probably just screw it down like the floorboards.