Engine & Propeller Page 

 

Important: The opinions expressed here are those of the individual contributors to these pages, and not those of the Catalina 380 International Association or Catalina Yachts, Inc. 

It is also important to note the hull number of the boat referenced in the comments by the owners.  Catalina is continually making changes to the design of the boats. Changes that were made on an older or newer boat by an owner may not be needed on your boat.

Sea Water Pump on the Yanmar 3jh3

Submitted by:  Bob Bierly

Hull #255 3-21-02
Subject:  Propulsion Systems
You are probably aware that Catalina started putting Yanmar 40hp model 3JH3BE diesels in later C380s.  My hull is #255 and has this engine.  After about 450 hours on the engine, I started getting big-time water leakage thru the seals on the pump.  The local Yanmar dealer in Cocoa Florida (where I was when I finally started looking for replacement seals) informed me that: (1) that pump shouldn't
leak with that few hours of wear and,  (2) that he had encountered several pumps on the 4jh and 3jh Yanmars that were assembled at the factory without a required mechanical seal.  Bottom line for me was that the dealer removed the pump, confirmed the internal mechanical seal was not installed, rebuilt the pump and reinstalled it all under warranty.


The only fly in that ointment was that the dealer was not authorized to replace the impeller under warranty (I had him put a new impeller at my cost just because it seemed appropriate with a "new pump").  After I saw the difficulty of replacing the pump, I considered it a cheap
insurance. BTW, one must remove the forward portside engine mount to remove the water pump from the engine. Since I had never heard that this pump was a problem, I thought you might want to post it on the C380 net for folks to watch for premature leakage. The seawater pump on the Yanmar is made by Johnson Pump.

 

Westerbeke 42B Upgrades

Submitted by:  Warren Elliott

Hull 6-18-01
Subject:  Propulsion Systems

WESTERBEKE 42B UPGRADES:

1-        Exhaust Riser [at output of exhaust manifold]: change from “humped” to 45 degree riser;

2-        Starboard Aft Locker Exhaust Hose: remove 180 degree fiberglass connector and replace with short straight internal connector and new length of hose;

3-        Thermostat Bypass/Hot Water Heater Connections: there are two approved hot water heater connections, (a) at the port side of the engine under the exhaust manifold.  This requires that a bypass be added at the front between the cylinder head and the fresh water pump.  This is a “U” shaped section of tubing located just below the thermostat housing and adjacent to the alternator; and (b) at the engine front, in place of the “U” section above.  In this case, the heater loop serves as the bypass.

4-        Thermostat: change from 180 degree to 160 degree;

NOTE: this is a change recommended by Westerbeke.  Some would argue it causes a worse long term problem of the engine not getting as hot as diesels should get. By cooling the water down at this point so low, Westerbeke is making extra sure that the rear cylinders get the coolest temp possible.

5-        Air Intake Silencer: this change is in place if you have a vertical machine screw across the opening;

6-        Cylinder Head Gasket: this internal change is not required but was instituted as an added measure.

If you have any questions on this, it’s best to contact Joe Joyce or Tom Sutherland of Westerbeke at 508 588-7700.

 

 

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Westerbeke 42B Start Procedure

Submitted by:  Warren Elliott

Hull 5-01
Subject:  Propulsion Systems
Per engine manual, page 39, edition 2 [paraphrased]:
  1. Advance throttle to full open position for a cold engine, and partially open for warm engine"*
  2. Preheat for approx. 10 seconds; atmospheric temp +41 deg or higher;**
  3. While holding preheat function on, depress start button....crank engine; crank max. 10 - 12 seconds***; [typical 42B starts about 5 - 6 sec when cold];
  4. As soon as engine runs, release start and preheat functions [& immediately reduce throttle to fast idle];
 
Notes from manual and/or telecons w/Westerbeke:
  1. * Full throttle sets it in condition similar to gas engine's "choke"; however, OK to use approx. 1/2 throttle if successful starts result;
  2. ** Observe preheat glowplugs proper operation by slight drop in voltmeter...[amount depends on status of batteries and wiring; typical is about 1/2 volt w/full charge];
  3. *** 
    (1) Preheat function also energizes fuel pump, so best to continue during cranking
      
    (2) Prolonged cranking warning: if engine fails to start after 10-12 sec. cranking, wait 30 sec. and repeat procedure. However, lengthy total cranking time can overfill muffler/exhaust system causing sea water to back up into engine causing damage!  May need to temporarily open muffler drain.

 

Engine Cooling Facts

Submitted by:  From January 99 Mainsheet

Hull 12-98
Subject:  Propulsion Systems
Catalina and Westerbeke are developing a plan to improve cooling of our 42B engine. Other boat models have experienced some overheating damage due to a constricted exhaust system design. This has not been an issue with the 380, but several precautionary upgrades are in the works.

 

Water Heater Upgrade
Submitted by:  From January 99 Mainsheet Hull 12-98
Subject:  Propulsion Systems
An upgrade is available from Westerbeke to improve engine-sourced hot water. This moves the hose connections for the hot water heater from the original port side of the engine to a set of connections at the water pump and thermostat. A new fitting is required for the thermostat housing tap. The water pump housing has an extra tap that can be used. Samantha (#31) has been configured in this manner and the hot water whilst cruising has been very nice indeed.

 

Filter Pressure Drop Gauge
Submitted by:  From January 99 Mainsheet Hull 12-98
Subject:  Propulsion Systems
This might be a good time to bring up the issue of fuel filters. Either we clean them regularly (and most of us probably do not) or they slowly clog up and interfere with proper flow to the engine….maybe when the engine is most needed! It would take only one bad batch of fuel to clog the filter. Consider adding a fuel suction meter in the line between tank and fuel pump. This meter will give you an absolute indication of the pump suction required to bring fuel from the tank. Mark the pressure with a clean filter and, when it increases, check the filter. The cost of installation and parts was about $120.00. It can be “tee’d” into the fuel line anywhere and does not require fuel system bleeding. Not too bad for peace of mind whilst at sea.

 

Fuel Tank Size
Submitted by:  Scott Brear Hull # 31 11-98
Subject:  Propulsion Systems
I spoke with Jerry Douglas about this long suffering problem.  According to Jerry, all tanks up to boat 177 were 27.5 gallons as determined by outside measurement allowing for wall thickness, etc. Boat 178 will have a 34.3 gallon tank.  The new tank can be retrofitted via a drop in; ie, no fibreglass work. It costs $322.35 FOB factory.

 

Fuel Tank Size
Submitted by:  Jim Jaeschke & Many Others Hull # 73 10-98
Subject:  Propulsion Systems
The fuel tank size is quoted in the orginal manuals as being 30 gallons.  The fuel tank's name plate shows that it is a 26 gallon tank. 

 

Vibration Under Power
Submitted by:  Jim Jaeschke Hull # 73 5-98
Subject:  Propulsion Systems
Last summer I always felt that there was just a little too much vibration when under power. This winter I took the propeller off sent it to Michigan Wheel.   They found that there was a burr in the taper of the propeller.  I also took some valve grinding compound and ground the tapers on the shaft and propeller to match. This helped to reduce the vibration level.

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