Galley Page

Important: The opinions expressed here are those of the individual contributors to these pages, and not those of the Catalina 380 International Association or Catalina Yachts, Inc. 

It is also important to note the hull number of the boat referenced in the comments by the owners.  Catalina is continually making changes to the design of the boats. Changes that were made on an older or newer boat by an owner may not be needed on your boat.

Under the Sink
Submitted by:  Bob Bierly	Hull #255	12/2002
Subject:  Galley
The newer C380’s have returned to vinyl hoses and have a much better arrangement for water tank management than my boat does.  The new boats have the tank valves mounted on the bulkhead inside the below-sink door [as do the original 380’s, such as my #44-Ed].  All of my tank valves are mounted on the floor under the sink, along with the whale type plumbing. Consequently I have built a second removable floor under the sink for pot and pan storage. The second floor has holes in it above each valve and an extension handle to turn those valves as needed without removing the floor and the paraphernalia. The floor is arranged on blocks and cleats to keep from loading the plumbing. The extension rods are 5/8” dowels cut to fit the water valves handles and protrude above the second floor.

 

Flatware and Utensil Storage
Submitted by:  Bob Bierly	Hull #255	12/2002
Subject:  Galley
Flatware storage: I bought a standard wooden flatware storage box from a popular regional kitchenware store; I mounted it with hinges under the hanging shelf, with the hinges toward the settee and the opening toward the galley. I use a bayonet catch to hold the box up against the bottom of the shelf when it’s closed and use a short length of lifeline cable to hold the box when open at about thirty degrees. This gives my wife an accessible flatware storage, which seems to have been omitted in this Catalina. My wife misses the drawers from the Catalina 34 galley. Utensil storage: Many chefs like to store cooking utensils in a crock or like item immediately adjacent to the stove. I mounted an open topped wooden box about 3x3x 5” box in the open space behind the stove to serve this purpose. By mounting it into the bulkhead on the fridge and just below the countertop, full size utensils such as spatulas, forks, whisks, etc. can be stored vertically without interfering with the drop down doors of the standard cabinets. I will mount a knife storage block on the other side of this gap, leaving enough room to retrieve the serving trays that are permanently stored behind the stove. BTW, a low fiddle along the fiberglass edge below the stove creates a great place for storing foil, waxed paper, and boxes of that type.

 

Counter Fiddles
Submitted by:  Bob Bierly	Hull #255	12/2002
Subject:  Galley
To allow use of the storage space atop the counters, I have fabricated and installed fiddles of various depths completely around the galley top. Along the aft edge of the icebox I have three-inch deep fiddles for small objects like glasses and condiments. Behind the ice box opening the fiddles are 2 “ deep for spices. Behind the dry storage opening area, the fiddles are 3/12 inches deep for miscellaneous food items and along the back of the splashguard, the fiddle depth is about 5 inches for a set of canisters. Immediately behind the sinks, the fiddles narrow to 3 inches again for soap, sponges, etc. All fiddles are attached by screws from behind the existing structures be it the bulkhead, the existing fiddle behind the stove or the splashguard. By drilling one hole for each fiddle standoff block, the entire structure of standoffs and battens (which form the fiddles) is firmly attached to the counter top. The standoff blocks are vertical, forming the sides of a series of “boxes.  The boxes are then completed with a batten screwed to the front of the blocks and running the length of the segment, i.e.: one along the aft end of the galley, one along the back of the fridge to the stove cutout, one from the stove to the backsplash and two at different depths along the back splash itself.  The dimensions are horizontal from the supporting splash back or the factory fiddle behind the stove/frig. Vertically, the fiddles are about 21/2 inches high. Depending upon what item you place in the new forward fiddles, the factory trays remain accessible. If something is too high in the forward [new] fiddle, it may have to be removed.  The factory batten, which is fastened to the preformed fiberglass trays and forms, their front remains as it was and forms the back edge of that row of battens

 

Hooks Behind Stove
Submitted by:  Sid Sytsma	Hull #242	12/2002
Subject:  Galley
Wonder where to put spatulas, potholders, BBQ forks, etc.?   Cup hooks do the job nicely and do not interfere with the stove in any way.  Keep ‘em far enough apart that they don’t easily bump into each other due to boat motion.

 

Silverware Drawer
Submitted by:  Sid Sytsma	Hull #242	12/2002
Subject:  Galley
The first mate was upset with the lack of a dedicated tableware drawer.  So, I bought a set of drawer sliders at Home Depot, a wood silver drawer from Bed, Bath & Beyond, and glued a teak front to the drawer, and voila…  We keep it hooked with a brass latch while underway

 

Dry Locker Lid
Submitted by:  Sid Sytsma	Hull #242	12/2002
Subject:  Galley
The problem was what to do with the lid on dry locker when opening it.  A set of door hinges and a hatch spring do the job nicely.  I ran bolt completely through the lid.  I considered doing the same thing for the fridge, but decided that I probably would not be able to guarantee a perfect lid to gasket seal with the hinges in place.

 

Storage For Dinnerware
Submitted by:  Ed and Sharyn Dahn	Hull #111	12/2002
Subject:  Galley
The shelf above the sink that was intended to store plates, mugs, and such, was totally inadequate for our needs (worthless). We wanted a “china cabinet” (or in our case a plastic cabinet). The plan was to build a cabinet using the existing shelf as a base and make some kind of a cabinet which had a shelf in the middle. We considered building the cabinet out of wood, but it seemed that this would not only block the light from the large port window, but it would not fit the open styling of the interior. We decided to make the cabinet out of a clear material.   The cabinet was made using an acrylic material purchased at the Home Depot called high impact ‘Lucite Tuf”, it is 3/16 thick. We also purchased some 1 ½ inch diameter oak ½ round for vertical supports, and 1 inch diameter oak ¼ round for gussets and shelf supports. The Piano hinge and knob for the door were from the Home Depot also. Photos of the finished project follow:

 

Food Storage
Submitted by:  Ed and Sharyn Dahn	Hull #111	12/2002
Subject:  Galley
The locker to the left of the microwave is a huge space that we believed to be quite unusable without a shelf. A wooden shelf was considered, however, it was felt that even if a ½ inch thick shelf were used it would require some kind of bracing. The thickness of the shelf and bracing would use up too much room. As a result we decided to make it out of 1/8 inch aluminum sheet metal. Careful measurements were made, and the local sheet metal shop sheared a piece for us. The shelf comes to within ¼ inch of the door so that items on the top shelf can not fall down. The shelf is supported on ½ inch aluminum angle stock that was installed along the sides and back. Photo below:

 

Storage for the Bar, New Trash Container,  & New Hatch Board Holder
Submitted by:  Ed and Sharyn Dahn	Hull #111	8-97
Subject:  Galley
Storage for the bar. The next issue was where to store liquor bottles. The setup for the waste basket (next to the sink) seemed to be really poor. The waste basket was very small, and some trash always missed the basket and wound up in the area where we stored pots and pans. We decided to throw out the trash container and to use the compartment to store bottles. This works really well, six large jugs and a couple of small ones fit nicely in the space. We intend to install a shelf above the bottles and enclose the sides. This will be accessible by lifting up the cutting board in the counter top. It will be used to store knives and cooking utensils. Making room for the new trash container The next issue was to find a place for a new larger trash container. We wanted a container that would hold a large kitchen trash bag. We decided to utilize the space on the port side of the stairs where the companionway hatch boards was stored. This seemed to be a poor location to store the boards in any case, because it was not accessible from the cockpit.   We relocated the storage rack to the starboard side of the stairs near the top as shown below. Waste Basket The next problem was to find a waste basket that would fit in the allocated space. Some plastic cans were found that were close, but not quite right. We decided to build a custom trash can. We chose to make it out of brushed stainless steel to match the stove. We made a sketch and had it fabricated at the local sheet metal shop. The seams are spot welded, and the top edge is "hemmed" to eliminate sharp edges. The installation is shown below: The wastebasket does not impede traffic or encroach on the doorway opening. The lid was made from a piece of oak, which was stained to match the interior. The lid is attached to the can with a stainless piano hinge.   The container uses a standard tall kitchen trash bag. The bag is held in place with a binder clip in each corner. Binder clips are a standard stationary store item.

 

Adding Additional Insulation To Older C380's Refrigerators
Submitted by:  Catalina Factory Note (Scott Brear Jim Jaeschke)		8-97
Subject:  Galley
August 29, 1997 Catalina 380 Procedure for Installing Additional Insulation To EARLY Refrigerators Some early Catalina 380"s may have void areas between the hull and the back of the refrigerators present insulation.  Voids area will be found on both side as well as the frontal areas.  Additional foam must be added to the bottom area, some sort of temporary cofferdam will be required in this area.  The following procedure will increase the "R" value of the refrigerator. Please Take Note: This procedure will require great care in the drilling and injecting of the foam.  Caution will be required when drilling thru the refrigerator outboard face to the void area.  Drilling too deep will contact the hull or hull liner.  Use caution when injecting this foam.  It can become very messy stuff.  Clean with lacquer thinner or acetone immediately.  All drilled hoes to be 1/4" diameter. Step 1.      Remove range Step 2.      Remove sole and sub sole in the area of the refrigerator. Step 3.      Cut out deck liner as shown on Sketch "A" Step 4.      Build cofferdam and insert under refrigerator. Step 5.      Tape this area well with duct tape to keep foam from going everywhere. Step 6.      Drill 3 holes fore and aft as shown in Sketch "B" and "A".  Please ensure that these holes will be covered by the sub sole. Step 7.      Drill holes as shown in Sketches "A" and "B" Step 8.      Read instructions on foam can and start injecting foam from the lowest points working upward. Step 9.      Let Foam cure overnight. Step 10.  Cap interior holes as shown in Repair Detail. Figures (Note they are fairly large files and will take time to download)  Frig Cross Section.jpg  Old Sketch A.jpg  Sketch A.jpg  Sketch B.jpg  Repair Detail.jpg

 

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