Plumbing Page  

Important: The opinions expressed here are those of the individual contributors to these pages, and not those of the Catalina 380 International Association or Catalina Yachts, Inc. 

It is also important to note the hull number of the boat referenced in the comments by the owners.  Catalina is continually making changes to the design of the boats. Changes that were made on an older or newer boat by an owner may not be needed on your boat.

Head Lid and Seat Support
Submitted by:  Dave Peffer Hull # 20 10-98
Subject:  Water System

The earlier hull numbers were designed without support for the lid and seat in the raised position, which means the hinges break. I made a ‘T’ support of teak, which is screwed into the bulkhead behind the head. Since the bulkhead does not line up with the hinge axis, the ‘T’ is angled 8 degrees to provide a direct 90-degree support for the lid. A rubber tip protects the lid. Looks OK, works fine.

 

Holding Tank Level Sensor
Submitted by:  Dave Peffer Hull # 20 10-98
Subject:  Water System

It is very nice, indeed, to have a positive monitoring system for the holding tank and at least one water tank. A new system from AMS (West Marine model #503402) is easy to install, and requires drilling NO HOLES in the tanks. You glue two copper strips on the side of the non-metallic tank, press on a sensor, lead the wiring and install the readout wherever it is convenient. I put mine next to the commode just below the sink, where it is easy to reach for installation. I took power off the night light just below it, but it can be powered from the panel, too. I also monitor the aft water tank, and it will monitor one more. I saw no gain in monitoring the center tank, so the extra is held in reserve.

 

Winterizing The Water System
Submitted by:  Tom McMahan Hull # 29 9-98
Subject:  Hull Machinery
I probably use more antifreeze (AF) than is really necessary, but I don't mind if it avoids worrying about a broken pipe below the floorboards. I just pump each tank as dry as possible and then drain the water heater. I then re-plumb the water heater, bypassing it to avoid having to waste all the AF it takes to fill it.    This requires buying a couple of extra fittings and a short length of the rigid tubing used in the 380 fresh water system.  Parts are available by special order from Whale via West Marine. Then, each tank gets about two gallons of AF.

On the 380, the shortest run from the manifold to a faucet is to the galley faucet. I open the valve for each tank separately and in turn and run water until pink appears at the galley. That assures that the supply lines from each tank are full of AF.

Then, just open each faucet on the boat in turn until you see pink AF flowing. Since the water heater is bypassed do both hot and cold for each faucet. Do the hot and cold separately so you can be sure visually that both lines are full of AF. Don't forget the shower in the head and the one on the stern platform. Also, the city water connection needs treatment. I forgot that last year and got to buy and install a new one.

After all of the faucets have been treated, return the water heater plumbing to its original configuration, open a hot water faucet, and run all tanks dry. Finally, open the water heater drain again. You should then see AF draining from there. If so, that should do it.

 

Manual Bilge Pump
Submitted by:  Scott Brear Hull # 31 5-98
Subject:  Hull Machinery
We all have automatic bilge pumps, but how many times have we actually operated our manual pumps? The location of the pump handle is critical, especially if the crew must pump for extended periods. This operation should have a minimal impact on the helm. And the pump itself was quite an obstacle to entrance into the port lazarette. 

The solution was to relocate the pump to an area immediately aft of the port propane locker. It is a squeeze, but it fits in an area not otherwise useable. One of the existing hoses had to be replaced. The old pump opening in the cockpit was filled with the piece removed from the new position, glassed in and properly finished by a glass expert. One could never see the original installation! The result is much easier lazarette access, and the operating position in the cockpit greatly improved, with the operator facing aft and out of the way of the helmsman, but still in easy reach from the helm.

 

Dock Side Water Connection
Submitted by:  Dave Peffer Hull # 20 7-98
Subject:  Water System
A few weeks ago we were asked by the Coast Guard to display a life jacket for each passenger, requiring us to take one of the PFD bags out of the lazarette. The gal who put it back in didn’t see that sneaky blue tube, and hung up the bag on it, then pushed extra hard. Result: the right-angle fitting from the regulator cracked. When we fired up the fresh water to do dishes the pump ran on and on, but we had no pressure. It took awhile to find this blasted leak! 

I have temporarily plugged the end of the tube after removing the fittings, but have to replace the thing if I ever want to use the dockside connection for water. Those who have not (yet) broken it can avoid the problem by disconnecting the blue tube, turning the regulator 180 degrees and reconnecting the water line. This will raise that sneaky blue tube up and out of the way enough to allow moving objects in and out of the lazarette without breaking the fitting (I hope!). Removing the tube from any fitting is a snap: there is a collar held away from the fitting by a simple ‘C’ ring, which can be removed with your fingertips. Push the collar back toward the fitting and the tube pulls out easily. To replace it, simply push the tube back into the fitting, then pull out the collar and replace the ‘C’ ring. Done and Done.

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