Had problem with my anchor light. ¬ Here are a couple of suggestions… From Bill Worsley: From my experience the biggest cause of failure for an exterior LED bulb that has been used to replace incandescent is exposure to water.¬ That is what happened to my LED anchor light 9 years after installation.¬ The base of that LED bulb was not sealed thus allowing moisture to get into the chip.¬ I still replaced it with superbrightleds.com LED (BAU15S – CW18 – T) which now has a sealed base.¬ At $6.95 each, I got two. The other recommendation and what I use as a spare or additional LED anchor light is from cruisingsolutions.com (Utility Anchor Light for $35) .¬ It also has a photocell to turn on at dusk and off at dawn.¬ Connect to a 12v socket in stern of boat and hang from backstay. The cost of a new
From¬ Mark O. Flaherty,¬ DIVERSION Catalina 380/296 Am installing Raymarine S100 Autopilot Remote Controller and would like lessons learned if anyone in group has already done so.¬ Trying to make best compromise of ease of installation and coverage.¬ Can the base station be ‚Äútucked‚ÄĚ into the instrument pod?¬ Adequate coverage? Aft lazerette? Nav Station? Other of which I have not thought? From Warren Elliott I had no issue with base in aft lazarette.¬ I tried there first (stb. Lazarette) because system computer was there making wiring super easy. From Jeff: Be careful when you are using it. When it’s battery runs low and the unit shuts down, it switches the autopilot to standby. From¬ Mike ’79 C380 ‘Debbia’ Racine, WI If you are sailing solo and carry the remote on your person, the Autopilot switching to standby on signal loss is a good safety feature. Should you fall
There are a number of other posts that suggest approaches to a helm seat for C380s. ¬ Here are two more. From Mike Gilmore of Morning Glory: Mike used a Texaline Springfield low back folding coach seat #142232763 mounted on a swivel post mounted on the insert leading to the swim platform. ¬ These are available from West Marine and other sources. From Chuck and Nat Speicher s/v Trinity Hull #3387¬ This is really simple, and cheap, ( about $30)¬ ¬ when traveling down the ICW last year, we realized the need for a helm seat as it’s just too many hours to stand.¬ We bought one of those shower seats, with the plastic seat and adjustable legs on amazon.¬ ¬ It fit perfectly¬ on the seat behind the¬ wheel, with out the cushion, we secured it to the back stantions¬ with some ties to keep it from slipping.¬ If
A number of members have mentioned problems with early Schaefer Jib Furlers seizing up. ¬ Note that you should never use petroleum based lubricants on Marlon bearings. From¬ Stan of¬ Frankie Anne¬ C380 #247¬ East Greenwich, RI: I just had to fix the same issue. ¬ The bearing design in the lower unit was changed at some point. ¬ The newer models have, I believe, bearings in tracks rather than loose. ¬ The unit still needs to be rinsed periodically but holds up better. ¬ The lower swivel with the new design is available from Schaffer and costs about ¬ $200. I opted to have a rigger do the work due to some complications but it’s a reasonable DIY job.
This is the first question I’ve seen that asks what to do with excess energy… From George Anderson,¬ C387 Sunlife,¬ Gulfport Florida I am in the midst of some systems upgrades and improvements on my C387 and put this out to the group. I am definitely adding solar panels and Blue Sky MPPT controllers are my preference in part due to of all of their products I have purchase over the last two boats they ¬ have given not any problems, their customer service is great and they are made in the US in colorado. The wind generator a Rutland 1200 delivers¬ 3 phase AC¬ ( an advantage in having the ability to run smaller gauge wire for the arch to the controller )and comes with their own MPPT ¬ controller which is capable of handling an additional Solar input as well as quiet ( one of my dock mates
Several members have asked about installing NewTeak on their boat: From Paul, hull 170: I was reading some older posts from Cole about his nuteak flooring. I am sure i saw some pics a while back but can’t find them in any of the albums. Cole or anyone, just wondering how the product is holding up and how happy you have been with it? Any pics would be great as well. Thinking of this for a project this summer. From Cole: I can’t be happier. I get the pressure washer out a couple of times a year and it still looks great. It has better performance when wet and doesn’t get very hot.
Photos from S/V Another Road: Angel’s Wings #140: I have been very happy with my 16000 btu unit by Ocean Breeze in Stuart, FL. ¬ It has a radiant heat side that doesn’t need to be winterized, so we can visit the boat in the winter. ¬ AC unit runs with a Honda 2000. Earl Poe ————————————- While Warren went for a cost effective approach, we live in Florida. ¬ After our 16k unit dies, we replaced it with a Marine Air 18k unit in the storage locker in front of the galley. ¬ With a main duct in the saloon, we have duct work running to both the forward and aft cabins. ¬ We have a separate thru hull for the water input and use a condensator for the output which keeps the bilge dry. By adding a smart start, which eliminate the large start up spike, we
Our C387 has a raw water electric toilet system that works very well; however, depending on the raw water or rather the location, ocean, river or creek, there is no smell from the sanitary system (ocean), or there is a very strong and offensive smell that is not very welcoming. We are considering changing over to a fresh water system to mitigate the odor. We have done some research on the Web without any success. Has any other member encountered this odor problem with the Head? If yes, please share with us your solutions and also if any member has done the raw water to fresh water conversion, how was it accomplished, parts, labor, pictures, etc. Thanks in advance for sharing your experience and comments on this subject. Isi & LaMae S / V ¬ Windseeker II NJ
From Wes Giles “Spring Fever” C387 #53: Haven’t seen this topic on this list yet. Last weekend while on a mooring at Ithmus Cove Catalina Island in a fairly heavy and steady rain; very unusual for So California, water started seeping through the canvas. Spring Fever is a 2004 387 with original canvas installed by a local (Marina Del Rey, CA) canvas provider. The boat has always been kept in-slip, so it is exposed to the elements (both sun and rain) year round. Has anyone found a way to remedy such a situation before? I have to believe there is some compound that I can buy to apply to the dodger that will provide water repellent results. From the Sunbrella site: http://www.sunbrella.com/en_us/how/cleaning/marine-tops-covers.php From Mike Moorehead “S/V RHYTHM”¬ C387 #29¬ : My canvas shop recommends 303 exclusively for Sunbrella. Avoid getting 303 on your Eisenglass or other window material. 303 spray
From Craig Spear, Free Spearit, C380 #273: This winter I want to replace the original dodger on my boat and am just starting the research.¬ As luck would have it the guy in the next slip had is getting a new one on his power boat so I got to talk to his guy and get a price or $1800 for a new dodger about the same as the original one but with heavy gauge (I didn‚Äôt catch how thick) Strataglass.¬ They will match the zippers to the connector and side windows (the big ones I added behind the normal side windows). I haven‚Äôt committed yet and am looking for recommendations.¬ What weight Strataglass have you used?¬ We didn‚Äôt discuss it but of course we want to use Sunbrella fabric, what weight?¬ The boat is in Winthrop, MA, so are there any people I should consider who do excellent work