Night Lights Below

Night Lights Below Dave Peffer 10/18/1998 Hull #: 20 Gotta have them. Even the red light over the galley hurts night vision from the cockpit. We added two night lights: one in the head next to and six inches above the seat of the commode below the sink, and one on the curve at the aft end of the starboard settee just above the cabin sole and just inboard of the navigator’s chair hinge support. When installing the latter be sure to remove the settee cushion base (only six or eight screws hold it down) to find the right spot for the light and to avoid drilling a hole in the holding tank, which fits snugly into this corner! You will find a simple electrician’s snake invaluable in such electrical installations. For some reason these lights are hard to find, but I got some from M&E Marine. You may have

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Condensation in the Refrigerator

Condensation in the Refrigerator Jim Jaeschke 9/1/1998 Hull #: 73 On Electra we started noticing in our second season a lot of condensation on the tops of cans in the top part of the refrigerator and also on the top of the refrigerator itself. We performed the dollar bill test which is closing the top cover of the refrigerator with a dollar bill located between the cover and the rubber seal. We found that the dollar bill pulled out easily in several locations along the perimeter which showed that the rubber seal was not touching the top. It was probably compressed from my putting a heavy tool box on the counter. A new one was installed. I also checked, as suggested by other owners, the junction of the counter top and the top of the refrigerator. I found as they had, a gap that could leak air. I sealed the

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Middle Aft Cockpit Seat Stability

Middle Aft Cockpit Seat Stability Jim Jaeschke 5/1/1998 Hull #: 73 I found out the hard way that middle stern section cockpit seat latches do not latch the seat securely on Electra. I stepped on the back of the seat and managed to launch it out into the lake while I fell onto the swim platform. I am correcting this design with one that will securely lock the seat in place and also make it very visible that it is locked. This is accomplished by making aluminum J hooks that are attached to the inside of the seat such that they will hook under the front of the bar that the seat rests on. Another section of bar was added at the back of the seat to reduce the potential for pivoting. I was lucky that this occurred in the slip and not out in the lake.

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Cabin Fans

Cabin Fans Dave Peffer 10/18/1998 Hull #: 20 You will want cabin fans in many places, and the Hella turbo-fans draw so little power that it is reasonable to do this. The fan(s) in the v-berth should be installed as far forward as possible blowing aft, promoting airflow through the boat. One excellent spot in the main saloon is just forward of the chart table, where it can blow across the head and shoulders of the navigator, then across to the galley, where it blows heat from the stove away from the cook. Other locations will suggest themselves. We have three fans in the aft cabin. On our boat there was a free ‘Cabin Fans’ switch on the panel.

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Mast and Shroud Grounding

Mast and Shroud Grounding Jim Jaeschke 9/1/1998 Hull #: 73 For those of you who did not order the bonding package, here is one idea as to a way to ground the base of the mast and the shroud wires to the keel. There is of course no method in which protection from lightning can be guaranteed. Indeed, there is much debate as to the way that will provide the most protection. On Electra, we decided to ground (connect) as much of the metal in the boat as possible to the keel. On the lower part of the keel, I have mounted, drilled and tapped, four small Dyna-Plates to make as good an electrical connection to the water as possible. In fresh water, this connection to the water is the weakest link in the protection system. Spread the Dyna-Plates out on the keel on both sides so that the electricity

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Boom Vang Pivot

Boom Vang Pivot Dave Peffer 5/1/1998 Hull #: 20 The pivot at the mast end of the vang turns on a pin held in place by only a cotter pin through the center. Nothing else holds it in place, and the cotter pin is liable to shear, dropping the pivot pin completely out of the fitting and releasing the vang from the mast. Pending a ‘fix’ for this problem, please check the cotter pin for wear and replace it at least once each season.

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Manual Bilge Pump

Manual Bilge Pump Scott Brear 5/1/1998 Hull #: 31 We all have automatic bilge pumps, but how many times have we actually operated our manual pumps? The location of the pump handle is critical, especially if the crew must pump for extended periods. This operation should have a minimal impact on the helm. And the pump itself was quite an obstacle to entrance into the port lazarette. The solution was to relocate the pump to an area immediately aft of the port propane locker. It is a squeeze, but it fits in an area not otherwise useable. One of the existing hoses had to be replaced. The old pump opening in the cockpit was filled with the piece removed from the new position, glassed in and properly finished by a glass expert. One could never see the original installation! The result is much easier lazarette access, and the operating position

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Boom Vang Boom Attachment Problems

Boom Vang Boom Attachment Problems George Ciechanowski 9/1/1998 Hull #: 66 Something to keep an eye on is the screws that attach the boom vang to the boom. The fitting on the end of the vang is secured with two screws and nyloninsert nuts. One of the nuts backed off and released the end of the fitting at the boom. The other screw was still in place but its’ nut was loose. Luckily I noticed the loose fitting before it did any major damage to itself or the boom. Since the vang is in the way of tightening one of the screws I replaced both screws with hex head bolts, washers, and new nuts (you should not reuse nylon insert nuts, they loose their holding power). You gain access to the nuts by way of the inspection plate on the boom but to get to the forward screw to remove

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Lazarette Setup

Lazarette Setup Dave Peffer 10/1/1998 Hull #: 20 Who wants to climb down into the lazarette to fetch stored items? Why not hang them up in easy reach? We were going to install athwartships stringers under the seat hatch hinges to install hooks but found stainless line hangers at West Marine (model # 243834). These install on the bolts holding the helmsman’s seat supports without any modification, at all, and the hooks are full half-circles. Nothing can fall off even in a full spinnaker broach. We have the emergency tiller and access-plate wrench, a boat hook, spare lines and fenders, a loud-hailer, the windshield and a bag for the dinghy oars on these. A boarding ladder and bucket are fitted with light retrieving lines, which are also hung on these hooks for easy retrieval. The PFD bags sold by marine stores fit snugly through the lazarette hatches, and we keep

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Anchor Windlass Circuit Breakers

Anchor Windlass Circuit Breakers Earl Poe 10/1/1998 Hull #: 140 I have received a copy of a letter dated 10/15/1998 from Catalina regarding the anchor windlass circuit breakers on 380’s and 400’s. Apparently, some boats left the factory with 80 amp. breakers in stead of the 135 amp. It’s only a problem under high loads, but all should check. The red PUSH-PULL bottom button has the capacity stamped on it. Should you have the 80, contact Ralph Torres @ Seaward.

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