Mast and Shroud Grounding

Mast and Shroud Grounding Jim Jaeschke 9/1/1998 Hull #: 73 For those of you who did not order the bonding package, here is one idea as to a way to ground the base of the mast and the shroud wires to the keel. There is of course no method in which protection from lightning can be guaranteed. Indeed, there is much debate as to the way that will provide the most protection. On Electra, we decided to ground (connect) as much of the metal in the boat as possible to the keel. On the lower part of the keel, I have mounted, drilled and tapped, four small Dyna-Plates to make as good an electrical connection to the water as possible. In fresh water, this connection to the water is the weakest link in the protection system. Spread the Dyna-Plates out on the keel on both sides so that the electricity

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Boom Vang Pivot

Boom Vang Pivot Dave Peffer 5/1/1998 Hull #: 20 The pivot at the mast end of the vang turns on a pin held in place by only a cotter pin through the center. Nothing else holds it in place, and the cotter pin is liable to shear, dropping the pivot pin completely out of the fitting and releasing the vang from the mast. Pending a ‘fix’ for this problem, please check the cotter pin for wear and replace it at least once each season.

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Manual Bilge Pump

Manual Bilge Pump Scott Brear 5/1/1998 Hull #: 31 We all have automatic bilge pumps, but how many times have we actually operated our manual pumps? The location of the pump handle is critical, especially if the crew must pump for extended periods. This operation should have a minimal impact on the helm. And the pump itself was quite an obstacle to entrance into the port lazarette. The solution was to relocate the pump to an area immediately aft of the port propane locker. It is a squeeze, but it fits in an area not otherwise useable. One of the existing hoses had to be replaced. The old pump opening in the cockpit was filled with the piece removed from the new position, glassed in and properly finished by a glass expert. One could never see the original installation! The result is much easier lazarette access, and the operating position

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Boom Vang Boom Attachment Problems

Boom Vang Boom Attachment Problems George Ciechanowski 9/1/1998 Hull #: 66 Something to keep an eye on is the screws that attach the boom vang to the boom. The fitting on the end of the vang is secured with two screws and nyloninsert nuts. One of the nuts backed off and released the end of the fitting at the boom. The other screw was still in place but its’ nut was loose. Luckily I noticed the loose fitting before it did any major damage to itself or the boom. Since the vang is in the way of tightening one of the screws I replaced both screws with hex head bolts, washers, and new nuts (you should not reuse nylon insert nuts, they loose their holding power). You gain access to the nuts by way of the inspection plate on the boom but to get to the forward screw to remove

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Lazarette Setup

Lazarette Setup Dave Peffer 10/1/1998 Hull #: 20 Who wants to climb down into the lazarette to fetch stored items? Why not hang them up in easy reach? We were going to install athwartships stringers under the seat hatch hinges to install hooks but found stainless line hangers at West Marine (model # 243834). These install on the bolts holding the helmsman’s seat supports without any modification, at all, and the hooks are full half-circles. Nothing can fall off even in a full spinnaker broach. We have the emergency tiller and access-plate wrench, a boat hook, spare lines and fenders, a loud-hailer, the windshield and a bag for the dinghy oars on these. A boarding ladder and bucket are fitted with light retrieving lines, which are also hung on these hooks for easy retrieval. The PFD bags sold by marine stores fit snugly through the lazarette hatches, and we keep

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Anchor Windlass Circuit Breakers

Anchor Windlass Circuit Breakers Earl Poe 10/1/1998 Hull #: 140 I have received a copy of a letter dated 10/15/1998 from Catalina regarding the anchor windlass circuit breakers on 380’s and 400’s. Apparently, some boats left the factory with 80 amp. breakers in stead of the 135 amp. It’s only a problem under high loads, but all should check. The red PUSH-PULL bottom button has the capacity stamped on it. Should you have the 80, contact Ralph Torres @ Seaward.

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Head Lid and Seat Support

Head Lid and Seat Support Dave Peffer 10/1/1998 Hull #: 20 The earlier hull numbers were designed without support for the lid and seat in the raised position, which means the hinges break. I made a “T” support of teak, which is screwed into the bulkhead behind the head. Since the bulkhead does not line up with the hinge axis, the “T” is angled 8 degrees to provide a direct 90-degree support for the lid. A rubber tip protects the lid. Looks OK, works fine.

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Anchor Locker Washdown System

Anchor Locker Washdown System Dave Peffer 5/1/1998 Hull #: 20 Dave Peffer, Hull #20, ‘Spindrift’ has installed a SHURflo Blaster washdown system to clean the chain and anchor as they come aboard. The pump fit on the forward bulkhead under the v-berth sink, taking water from the sink drain. The sink drain plug fits tight, and prevents sucking air when the system is activated. Be sure to replace the drain tubing with non-collapsing hose, which must also be used for the run from the tee to the pump. Double clamp all hose connections. Dave opted not to put a filter in line before the pump to keep pressure high, but will add one if the pump clogs. The hose and electric wire go up through the hole in the cabinet above the sink (used for the amidships water tank fill and vent) with a little extra reaming, then forward in

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Handy Holder

Handy Holder Dave Peffer 10/18/1998 Hull #: 20 A swing-down white plastic tray/drawer that mounts easily under the medicine cabinet to hold small items such as milady’s makeup, wallet and change, car keys and whatever. It has positive detents in the up and down position. It is available from ABC, Inc, 1-800-877-4797

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Anchor Chain Specifications

Anchor Chain Specifications Dave Peffer 8/1/1998 Hull #: 20 The Maxwell windlass manual calls for using 5/16″ short -link’ chain. They have kindly clarified this, and recommend A.C.C.O. 5/16″ high test chain spliced to 5/8″ 3-strand or multi-plait nylon anchor line. If you want to use the windlass’ ability to handle both line and chain on the gypsy, a short, tapered splice is required on multi-plait and a full three-part splice (all three strands going through the chain link) is recommended for three-strand. You may get more information or order pre-spliced chain-rode combinations from Maxwell: 1610 Babcock St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627, phone 714-631-2634. Please note that 5/16″ proof-coil chain, the kind most commonly available at boating stores, slips on the Maxwell gypsy and is VERY DANGEROUS to use. 5/16″ BBB chain fits the gypsy perfectly, but it is not as strong as the chain recommended by Maxwell. Whether you

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