Head Lid and Seat Support

Head Lid and Seat Support Dave Peffer 10/1/1998 Hull #: 20 The earlier hull numbers were designed without support for the lid and seat in the raised position, which means the hinges break. I made a “T” support of teak, which is screwed into the bulkhead behind the head. Since the bulkhead does not line up with the hinge axis, the “T” is angled 8 degrees to provide a direct 90-degree support for the lid. A rubber tip protects the lid. Looks OK, works fine.

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Anchor Locker Washdown System

Anchor Locker Washdown System Dave Peffer 5/1/1998 Hull #: 20 Dave Peffer, Hull #20, ‘Spindrift’ has installed a SHURflo Blaster washdown system to clean the chain and anchor as they come aboard. The pump fit on the forward bulkhead under the v-berth sink, taking water from the sink drain. The sink drain plug fits tight, and prevents sucking air when the system is activated. Be sure to replace the drain tubing with non-collapsing hose, which must also be used for the run from the tee to the pump. Double clamp all hose connections. Dave opted not to put a filter in line before the pump to keep pressure high, but will add one if the pump clogs. The hose and electric wire go up through the hole in the cabinet above the sink (used for the amidships water tank fill and vent) with a little extra reaming, then forward in

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Handy Holder

Handy Holder Dave Peffer 10/18/1998 Hull #: 20 A swing-down white plastic tray/drawer that mounts easily under the medicine cabinet to hold small items such as milady’s makeup, wallet and change, car keys and whatever. It has positive detents in the up and down position. It is available from ABC, Inc, 1-800-877-4797

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Anchor Chain Specifications

Anchor Chain Specifications Dave Peffer 8/1/1998 Hull #: 20 The Maxwell windlass manual calls for using 5/16″ short -link’ chain. They have kindly clarified this, and recommend A.C.C.O. 5/16″ high test chain spliced to 5/8″ 3-strand or multi-plait nylon anchor line. If you want to use the windlass’ ability to handle both line and chain on the gypsy, a short, tapered splice is required on multi-plait and a full three-part splice (all three strands going through the chain link) is recommended for three-strand. You may get more information or order pre-spliced chain-rode combinations from Maxwell: 1610 Babcock St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627, phone 714-631-2634. Please note that 5/16″ proof-coil chain, the kind most commonly available at boating stores, slips on the Maxwell gypsy and is VERY DANGEROUS to use. 5/16″ BBB chain fits the gypsy perfectly, but it is not as strong as the chain recommended by Maxwell. Whether you

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GPS Interference

GPS Interference John Estes 10/18/1998 Hull #: 142 I finally got my problem solved. When we ordered our new C380, we ordered it with a Garmin 215 GPS with Differential built in. Well, the GPS worked fine but no differential. The dealer and the West Marine rep tried everything but still no workie. (I forgot to tell you I also had a inverter installed as well) By luck the rigger who was working on my boat turned off the inverter and lo and behold the differential started to work. So, after rewiring, trying a new GPS and new antennas, it was just interference from the inverter. So, I do not use the inverter when under way.

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GPS Cockpit Power

GPS Cockpit Power Dave Peffer 8/1/1998 Hull #: 20 Having the GPS mounted on the pedestal is convenient, especially if you have a 12V outlet to power it so you can keep the light on at night. There is not an outlet provided, so I added one. Using a Marinco 12VRC outlet with a rubber cover and a good seal, I placed it on the lower port quadrant on the side of the engine instrument pod, where it would be angled downward to prevent water running down into the barrel of the outlet or around the edge, should the seal fail. Be sure to check for interference with instruments inside the pod before drilling. Inside the pod is a connector block, and I was able to add the wires to appropriate slots on the block without crowding. Caution: the wiring is not heavy enough to support using the outlet for

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Fuel Tank Size

Fuel Tank Size Jim Jaeschke 10/1/1998 Hull #: 73 The fuel tank size is quoted in the orginal manuals as being 30 gallons. The fuel tank’s name plate shows that it is a 26 gallon tank.

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Fridge Compressor

Fridge Compressor Scott Brear 8/1/1998 Hull #: 31 Many of us have noticed that the Catalina 380 fridge needed a bit more insulation to make it effective. The factory fix has been appreciated and worthwhile. I also felt that the placement of the compressor is in a rather vulnerable position in the bottom of the port lazarette. Objects could be dropped on it or it could (and would) be stepped on. On Samantha we moved the compressor to a shelf glassed into the area between the port propane locker and the hull. This required new copper plumbing and a refrigerant recharge, but there was plenty of unused space. Now it is safely out of the way and still easily accessible. To make certain that it has adequate ventilation we installed a stainless vent between this area and the aft cabin, which is probably a good idea whether the compressor is

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Winterizing The Water System

Winterizing The Water System Tom McMahan 9/1/1998 Hull #: 29 I probably use more antifreeze (AF) than is really necessary, but I don’t mind if it avoids worrying about a broken pipe below the floorboards. I just pump each tank as dry as possible and then drain the water heater. I then re-plumb the water heater, bypassing it to avoid having to waste all the AF it takes to fill it. This requires buying a couple of extra fittings and a short length of the rigid tubing used in the 380 fresh water system. Parts are available by special order from Whale via West Marine. Then, each tank gets about two gallons of AF. On the 380, the shortest run from the manifold to a faucet is to the galley faucet. I open the valve for each tank separately and in turn and run water until pink appears at the

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Dutchman/Boom Lift

Dutchman/Boom Lift Dave Peffer 11/1/1997 Hull #: 20 Earlier hull numbers have an adjustable two-part boom lift designed to permit setting up the Dutchman exactly. This has a nasty tendency to shake out of the cam cleat at the end of the boom, and re-setting it with the sail luffing is no picnic. I opted to set the system up perfectly, then whipped the two parts of the boom lift together just above the cam cleat. No more loose line and the whipping can easily be cut when necessary.

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