Procedure for Installing Additional Insulation to Early Refrigerators

August 29, 1997 Some early Catalina 380″s may have void areas between the hull and the back of the refrigerators present insulation. Voids area will be found on both side as well as the frontal areas. Additional foam must be added to the bottom area, some sort of temporary cofferdam will be required in this area. The following procedure will increase the “R” value of the refrigerator. Please Take Note: This procedure will require great care in the drilling and injecting of the foam. Caution will be required when drilling thru the refrigerator outboard face to the void area. Drilling too deep will contact the hull or hull liner. Use caution when injecting this foam. It can become very messy stuff. Clean with lacquer thinner or acetone immediately. All drilled hoes to be 1/4″ diameter. Step 1. Remove range Step 2. Remove

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More on Portlight Leaks

More on Portlight Leaks Richard Herbst August, 2007 Hull #: C380 #93 Last month’s [May 07] article on repairing portlight leaks omitted one source of a leak that is very easy to fix. On my boat (C380, S/N 93), the 2-horizontal seams in the Lewmar portlight’s frame is a primary source of leakage and the fix is really simple. My boat had been in the Gulf area for many years with the result that sunlight beat these seams to death. To fix, just run a bead of sealant across each seam and the leak stops (see photo). Note that the portlight frame is hollow, so after sealing the seams, you may have to take a brisk sail to heel and spill the residual water out of the already present holes in the lower part of the frame. Before starting, put a towel there to catch the water.[Suggest removing trim ring;

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Inexpensive SSB Antenna

Inexpensive SSB Antenna Bob Bierly August, 2007 Hull #: C380 #255 “I constructed a separate insulated antenna that runs from one of my my davit arms to the mast head using a spare halyard. I made this antenna from number 10 steel wire (from West ) and 2 porcelain insulators from a ham radio store. That proprietor recommended the longest possible wire as an antenna, which I have. I also avoided cutting the backstay and the expensive insulators for that purpose. Once the metal long wire is up you merely attach the insulated antenna lead from the antenna tuner directly to the steel wire with a hose clamp or a copper u-bolt ( which I found in Home Depot). My total cost is maybe 20 bucks.” –Bob Bierly, C380 #255, “C’Mon Wind” Bob’s antenna is certainly simple, and should perform well at least in some circumstances. However, as much of

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Engine’s Water-Injected Exhaust Elbow

Engine’s Water-Injected Exhaust Elbow Warren Elliott November, 2007 Hull #: C380 # 44 Cooling sea water flows through our engine’s heat exchanger, then through the anti-siphon valve discussed above and to the elbow fitting at the aft end of the exhaust manifold. Here the water is “injected” into the hot exhaust gases, where it cools them while transiting the exhaust system, ending up back in the sea. This elbow fitting is therefore in a very harsh environment, suffering the rigors of both very hot gases and warm/ hot salt water. [Fresh water sailors have an advantage here.] So you can imagine that this part is likely to be on the earlier, rather than later, timescale for failure. This occurred to at least one captain, albeit in a benign fashion. Over a period of months, his engine gradually exhibited higher and higher operating temperatures. After checking all the likely sources of

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Electric Halyard Winch Conversion [C 387]

Electric Halyard Winch Conversion [C 387] Dale Hartwig August, 2007 Hull #: C387 #85 Powering Up Footloose Regardless of where we sail, how we sail, and with whom we choose to share our sailing, I suspect most of us spend time evaluating options to make our experiences easier, simpler, and safer. Bottom line for me is: anything I can do to increase my time on the water is a primary consideration – physical effort included. When we moved from our C320 to our C387, we chose the Forespar LeisureFurl mainsail boom furler option. This article is not about our “learning” experiences with the boom furler but about our decision to replace the standard manual halyard winch with a powered winch. In discussions with Forespar, while “Footloose” was in production, we understood a powered winch was recommended, to make raising the big main a snap. However, we had missed the

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Companionway Slider Replacement

Companionway Slider Replacement Michael Barry May, 2007 Hull #: C380 #53 Drama Queen, C380 hull #53, came with a gray, “full-size” Plexiglas companionway sliding hatch, as did all early 380s. After a few years, our slider needed replacing due to the appearance of some cracks. I spent a great deal of time shopping plastic supply companies to have a replacement made, but I had no luck. I then contacted Catalina and ordered a new slider [about $250]. The newer sliders are made of fiberglass with a small Plexiglas insert. I was told that the new slider would fit the older boats. Well, it sort of fits. [Note- the original allplexiglass design had a tendency to sag or warp, especially in southern heat, thus the new design– Warren] To replace the sliding hatch, first I removed the screws that secure the large hatch cover, then slid the cover out from under

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Companionway Doors

Companionway Doors Warren Elliott November, 2007 Hull #: C380 #44 As many of our stalwart Sailnet chat group members will recall, a few months ago we got together a group buy of doors for our boat’s companionway. These particular units are made by Zarcor [.com], a frequent Mainsheet advertiser. They are fabricated out of starboard, a white plastic. While the well-known alternative doors are made from teak [Glebe Creek, sold by Cruising Concepts, also a Mainsheet advertiser] and look very nice, I, and presumably all of our group buyers, do not want to deal with the upkeep required by their wood construction. So, we purchased and installed the Zarcor version, which have been in place now about a month. I thought some readers would be interested in how the installed doors look on a C380, [specifically mine], which you can see in the two accompanying photos. Installation is quite simple.

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Siphon Breaks and Engine Failures

Siphon Breaks and Engine Failures Gordon Croudace May, 2007 Hull #: , C380 #18 The head on my C380’s Westerbeke engine recently underwent a costly overhaul as a consequence of seawater entering the engine exhaust manifold. It was determined that the siphon break [aka “anti-siphon valve”] had seized shut, allowing seawater to flood the engine exhaust manifold after engine shut-down. Having discussed this with various marine engineers involved in engine overhauls, it is likely that the lack of attention to siphon-break maintenance, and sometimes the installation approach, is the cause of many failures of inboard marine engines, irrespective of manufacturer. It can affect any engine mounted below the water line, in both sail and power boats. This unfortunate experience [perhaps fortunate for our readers- Warren], has prompted me to write this article in the firm belief that all owners should understand the role of the siphon break and inspect the

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Freedom 800 Windlass

FREEDOM 800 WINDLASS 2 Richard Herbst Date: Feb, 2007 Hull #: 93 Following is the second of two articles on this subject, this one by Richard Herbst, second owner of C380 #93, a late 1997 boat. The extra emphasis on the Freedom 800 is because of several serious relevant problems reported on our Sailnet email list and due to my desire to maximize your happy-hour time, at least for the captains of the 300 or so C380’s out there with this windlass. Other boats in the fleet have the VW800, either horizontally mounted [first approx 75 C380s] or, for late C380’s & C387s, vertically oriented. Background & Repairs I would like to amplify Warren’s article appearing in the previous issue regarding the Freedom 800 windlass. Warren was right on target when he advised owners to wash down that windlass frequently. A vertical main shaft only encourages water, salt, mud, silt

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Drain for Swim Platform

DRAIN FOR SWIM PLATFORM Warren Elliott Feb, 2007 Hull #: 44 Are you tired of that small pool of often dirty water that accumulates on the swim platform of your otherwise beautiful boat?? Well, help is at hand!! I was surprised– almost shocked– to recently learn, via our Sailnet email discussion group, that many of our fleet do not have this simple, worthwhile device which eliminates water accumulations on the swim platform!!. How can this be?? It’s now taken at least two, maybe three happy hours for this info to sink into my brain and for me to do something about it! So you know that the value/$ of this upgrade must be high: at least semi-infinite!! In other words, this clearly worthwhile upgrade can be done for almost nothing!! Picture, if you will, a brass tube, maybe 3/8″ diameter and 2″ long, flared

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