From Bill Worsley Southern Skies C-380 #302 My C-380 is hull # 302 and I have an Isomat NG-70 spar with an Isomat NG-2 masthead cover.¬ I think there have been several masts for the C-380, Jim’s being one of the original.¬ Based on hull numbers, I think we may have the same mast – many would say it is a Charleston spar, but actually Isomat design (see the discussion on the rigrite website about Charleston Spars).¬ If you go to rigrite.com website and follow this path, you will get to a diagram of the masthead assembly: Spars\Isomat Spars\Mast Specs and Components\NG-70\Masthead Parts\NG2 Masthead Assembly ¬ Note that the cover plate is held in place by two “feet” that slip into the top forward part of the mast body and is bolted down on the aft end by two hex head bolts.¬ This only gives you access to the sheaves.¬
From Rick Beauregard: Thank you Dick Kollmann! www.kollmann-marine.com To recap, my frig was cycling on for 5 seconds, then off for a minute or two, then on again, and not cooling. I found Dicks web site where he gives a detailed ¬ diagnosis process for the Danfoss type compressors we have with the Alder Barbour frig, and others. Basically, these units are made up of five components: the compressor, the controller which turns it off and on, a thermostat, a cooling fan and radiator, and the cold plate and tubes.Often people jump to the conclusion that the compressor is bad before doing the complete diagnosis, or needs recharge. This is not the most likely¬ failure¬ unless the compressor has been tampered with. Dick provides a diagnostic procedure for determining if the problem lies with the controller, thermostat, fan, power issues to the unit, or other problem ( http://www.kollmann-marine.com/techtips.aspx). After going
This is the first question I’ve seen that asks what to do with excess energy… From George Anderson,¬ C387 Sunlife,¬ Gulfport Florida I am in the midst of some systems upgrades and improvements on my C387 and put this out to the group. I am definitely adding solar panels and Blue Sky MPPT controllers are my preference in part due to of all of their products I have purchase over the last two boats they ¬ have given not any problems, their customer service is great and they are made in the US in colorado. The wind generator a Rutland 1200 delivers¬ 3 phase AC¬ ( an advantage in having the ability to run smaller gauge wire for the arch to the controller )and comes with their own MPPT ¬ controller which is capable of handling an additional Solar input as well as quiet ( one of my dock mates
There are a number of threads dealing with heat exchanger problems. ¬ Here is an unusual one from Dauphine, C380 #160:
Water can get into the bilge through the mast and down the compression post. ¬ There is a weep hole in the deck plate that often is obstructed so the only place for the water to go is into the boat. The photo below is the bottom side of the deck plate. ¬ If you look at this from the top, it looks like there are a number of weep holes around the sides but those objects are simply cutouts for the bolts. ¬ The weep hole is the small grove at the top o the picture. ¬ IMHO: It is too small and gets blocked easily. From Mike and Morning Glory Compression Post Deck Plate
There is a spare parts kit available for the Westerbeke B 42B: https://www.westerbeke.com/Product/SPAREPARTSKITB42BFOUR/044856?productname=SPAREPARTSKITB42BFOUR&productid=542029E9DAF73B1CA82D7B30 Part Number Description Quantity Unit 011885 ZINC 1/4NPT x 1-3/4 2 EA 017263 FORM, DISTRIBUTOR LISTING 1 EA 022851 GASKET, EXCHANGER 2-3/4 IN 1 EA 024353 GLOWPLUG 12VDC 1 EA 030200 ELEMENT, FUEL FILTER 1 EA 030475 BELT, FAN 39.5 x O 1 EA 030538 INJECTOR 1 EA 030548 ELEMENT, FUEL LIFT PUMP FILTER 1 EA 033093 KIT, HARDWARE W13-33/35B-42B 1 EA 035299 BELT, COG 41.4 X O 1 EA 035450 FORM, SPARES & ACCESSORIES 1 EA 035828 FILTER, OIL 1 EA 041658 BOX, SPARE PARTS KIT 1 EA 043612 THERMOSTAT 160F 1 EA 044855 GASKET SET, COMPLETE 42B FOUR 1 EA 048076 FILTER, FUEL 80 MICRON 1 EA 048500 IMPELLER KIT 1 EA 049000 KIT, WATER PUMP 1 EA
Several members asked about expected fuel consumption on a C380. ¬ The responses were pretty consistent: It‚Äôs going to vary a bit depending on your prop set up and sea conditions. ¬ My typical fuel consumption is better than on the chart Rich shared. ¬ It is a matter of RPMs and the sweet spot for consumption versus boat speed for my boat is in the 2200-2500 RPM range. ¬ I typically burn ~ .75 gallons per hour in that range and can make 6+knots. ¬ Mike Morning Glory
Removing hoses has always been a pain. ¬ Here is a suggestion from Kevin aboard Kairos: After struggling with hoses I bought a hose removal tool from Amazon, OTC 4521 $9, you could probably bend a thick awl or pick, but this does work great. Others have suggested using a heat gun to soften the hose prior to removal.
The original question was how to service and lube a thru-hull with the boat in the water. ¬ What would happen if you took out the four screws on the inside part of the thru-hull? Warren’s response was something I’d never heard before. ¬ The thru-hull comes with a plug that can be used to plug up the thru-hull from the outside. From post by Warren Elliott: For disassembly while afloat (those 4 screws), there is a small “plug” extending out from the center of the handle. ¬ Pull this out (which reveals the handle’s securing screw)…..it is made to fit snugly in the fitting from the outside of the boat, thus avoiding a gusher. (This does require a slight bit of swimming!). An additional feature of that plug is its closed circle handle; tie a several foot long string to that handle, securing the other end to a lifeline.