Owner Improvements

The list below provides links to owner websites and their descriptions of improvements they have made to various aspects of the Catalina 380 series. I include them in this post so that they will be available to the search routines of this site. RIGGING Spinnaker Rig Details – Som Sikdar Whisker Pole – Paul McManus In Boom Furler – Kevin Murray Back Stay Adjuster – Kevin Murray Double Footblock – Som Sikdar Boom Brake – Kevin Murray Preventer – Som Sikdar Power Primary Winch – Kevin Murray Mainsheet Cam Cleat – Kevin Murray Jib Furler Line Clutch – Kevin Murray Go Fast Rigging – Steve Dublin Bobstay – Kevin Murray STAINLESS Stern Handrails -John Estes Stainless Projects – Scott Brear CREATURE COMFORT Drop Leaf Salon Table– Jim Jaeschke Table Tray – Robert Taylor Sink Boards – Kevin Murray Stove Cover Board – Robert Taylor Cabin Storage – Som Sikdar Fridge

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Windlass Alert

Windlass Alert Warren Elliott November, 2006 Hull #: 44 There has been considerable traffic on our Sailnet email discussion group on this subject. Captains are finding problems ranging from clutch lockups to windlass slowdown/ failure, so I thought I’d give a brief overview of the problems and solutions, before more of you “suffer”–and there has been some suffering! Changing gear oil has also been batted around, but this is much less important, per the manufacturer, Maxwell. Note that I hope to have a fuller article on this in the near future. There are two windlass models within our fleet: the “Freedom 800″ and the “VW 800″; early C380’s have the latter unit, but horizontally mounted. Boats from about late 1997 to 2002 have the Freedom model, and later C380’s and C387’s have the VW 800, vertically mounted. Captains with the Freedom windlass have reported more problems than others, probably because

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Maxwell Windlass – Mainsheet May 2005

Maxwell Windlass Warren Elliott 5/1/2005 Hull #: 44 Maxwell Windlass There’s been quite a lot of discussion on our email list concerning operating problems with our windlasses. These are principally the clutch not releasing, jamming when rope/chain splices transit the chainwheel with the “Freedom” version and failure/stalling of the unit. To release “stuck” clutches, some captains have had to undertake some severe hammer work, as advised by Maxwell. The answer here seems to be proper maintenance, with at least annual cleaning and greasing required. The rope/chain splice problem is best minimized by having a good, professional “thin” splice made up. Some captains report that pulling the anchor line during the critical splice transit helps. A great way around both of these issues is to go to an all chain rode and add a down switch. This way, there is no splice to jam, and the clutch never needs adjusting, just

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Maxwell Windlass Issues

Maxwell Windlass Warren Elliott 5/1/2005 Hull #: 44 There’s been quite a lot of discussion on our email list concerning operating problems with our windlasses. These are principally the clutch not releasing, jamming when rope/chain splices transit the chainwheel with the “Freedom” version and failure/stalling of the unit. To release “stuck” clutches, some captains have had to undertake some severe hammer work, as advised by Maxwell. The answer here seems to be proper maintenance, with at least annual cleaning and greasing required. The rope/chain splice problem is best minimized by having a good, professional “thin” splice made up. Some captains report that pulling the anchor line during the critical splice transit helps. A great way around both of these issues is to go to an all chain rode and add a down switch. This way, there is no splice to jam, and the clutch never needs adjusting, just leave it

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Installing A Second Anchor Roller

Installing A Second Anchor Roller Johnny Smith 2/1/2003 Hull #: 240 When I decided to install a second anchor roller on Shearwater, my 2000 model 380, I first looked in the local West Marine and BOAT/US stores. I then looked in my Garhauer catalog and found one I liked. I wanted one that is shorter than the one that came with the boat to make mounting the second anchor easier. I ordered the model AR-30, which is 24″ LOA with an ID of 2-1/2 inches and weighs 8 lbs. The price in the catalog is $93.50. Their phone number if you don’t have it is (909) 985-9993. I chose a Garhauer unit because our boats are loaded with Garhauer equipment (vang, traveler, adjustable genoa leads, etc.) and I’ve been pleased with their service and appearance so far. Secondly, none of the models I saw in the marine stores were pre-drilled

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More on 2nd Bow Rollers

More on 2nd Bow Rollers Bob Bierly 2/1/2003 Hull #: 255 That Second Anchor Roller That You Always Wanted- I was the owner who tried to get Catalina and Garhauer to develop and manufacture a heavy-duty double bow roller in the winter of 2000. Simply put, Catalina decided- for undisclosed reasons- not to provide Garhauer a sketch of such a roller incorporating the geometry of the forward part of the C380 that would insure the proper fit and function. Instead, in September 2001, Frank Butler recommended that I add a second roller, similar to the original, on the starboard side of the fore stay. Since we were preparing for a seven-month trip down the eastern coast of the US, I had already done so when the recommendation was received. Figure 1 I bought a stock 24-inch long roller from Garhauer (AR-30), cut off about 6 inches with a hacksaw and

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Maxwell Freedom 800 Windlass

Maxwell Freedom 800 Windlass Bob Bierly 8/20/2002 Hull #: 255 I managed to crank my chain rode into the windlass about a month without destroying the chain stripper and chain wheels. Being under warranty, I called Maxwell in Cal. After a minor lecture on greasing the windlass, Maxwell did step up and fedex’d overnight the required upper and lower chain wheels in a subassembly, which I was able to drop in as directed. Two observations: one, Maxwell responded very well and, two, the greasing of the windlass, indicated in the operations manual to be annually, should be three times annually according to the manufacturer’s rep. His comment was: if you grease the windlass, it will never give you trouble. Err with too much grease as opposed to too little. Use waterproof grease like lithium based.

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Double Bow Roller

Double Bow Roller Tom Lincoln 11/5/2002 Hull #: 205 We’ve been chatting on the Sailnet e-mail list on the desirability of a double-bow roller, particularly for extended cruising, for over a year. Catalina has recently responded by providing this feature on new C380’s & 390’s. But what to do if your boat doesn’t have this? Following is the first of at least two articles on retrofitting your boat to gain the advantage of two bow rollers. This is from Tom Lincoln, # 205 “Ridge Runner”, who is on quite an extended cruise. We prepared our C380, Ridge Runner, for cruising and living aboard. For the past year and a half we have cruised the Great Lakes, The East Coast from NY to Florida and next year: The Bahamas. We have done many things to make the boat a better and safer cruiser. One of the most important, and possibly one

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Anchor Locker Ideas

Anchor Locker Ideas Sid Sytsma 11/1/2001 Hull #: 242 I have added the following items to the anchor locker: (1) A West Marine (SJPRO#960012 @ $26.95) line holder. I have also mounted one in the port lazarette holes line up exactly with ones in place for the seat latch no drilling. (2) I have mounted a reel of Ankoralina line for deploying a lunch hook. Very handy and does not take much space. The reel has about 185 of polyester strap that has approximately the same strength and stretch as ½ nylon three-strand line. The Ankoralina does dual duty as a jackline. I have mounted a 25# Danforth High Tensile on a piece of teak using the bracket that is typically used to hang a Danforth style anchor on a stanchion (West Marine #488353 @ $34.99). At the bottom of the teak board (that runs the full depth of the

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Anchor Locker Lock

Anchor Locker Lock Scott Brear 2/1/1999 Hull #: Keeping the anchor locker closed, whether to prevent it from opening in a heavy sea or to keep thieves out of it, requires some kind of lock. One solution is a lockable hasp on deck, but a lock can be cut and it is a toe-banger. Some of us have taken an inside approach. It is quite practical to attach a ¼ inch line to the inside of the hatch (where the holding open cable is mounted) and run the line to a cleat in the v-berth. The photo shows the internal installation, using a stainless jam cleat. It is important that the hole be positioned just under its attachment to the locker lid where the line can be pulled the tightest. There must be no slack. I used a surface-mounted turning block in the locker at the exiting hole to minimize

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