From Rick Beauregard: Thank you Dick Kollmann! www.kollmann-marine.com To recap, my frig was cycling on for 5 seconds, then off for a minute or two, then on again, and not cooling. I found Dicks web site where he gives a detailed Â diagnosis process for the Danfoss type compressors we have with the Alder Barbour frig, and others. Basically, these units are made up of five components: the compressor, the controller which turns it off and on, a thermostat, a cooling fan and radiator, and the cold plate and tubes.Often people jump to the conclusion that the compressor is bad before doing the complete diagnosis, or needs recharge. This is not the most likelyÂ failureÂ unless the compressor has been tampered with. Dick provides a diagnostic procedure for determining if the problem lies with the controller, thermostat, fan, power issues to the unit, or other problem ( http://www.kollmann-marine.com/techtips.aspx). After going
Adler/Barbour Troubleshooting (and Waeco 50, 80, and 90 series) By: Jacob These units are simple to troubleshoot, but if for some reason you donâ€™t feel comfortable, or you donâ€™t have the proper equipment, we have a large distributor/dealer network to handle issues in the field. Go to Cruisair.com and find a dealer. Choose your state/location. WHAT IS ON THE WEBSITE IS THE DISTRIBUTORS. THEY MAY BE IN ANOTHER STATE OR A COUPLE HUNDRED MILES AWAY. HOWEVER, IF YOU CONTACT THEM, THEY CAN REFER YOU TO A DEALER LOCATED NEAR YOUR BOAT. This is a simple troubleshooting guide Iâ€™ve made up myself to help when your system is not performing correctly. These are just some scenarios I encounter everyday, and figured Iâ€™d put them in this simple, laymanâ€™s terms troubleshooting guide. Before you start, there are a couple thingsÂ you may need to identify. The ColdmachinesÂ produced now contain two PC
HI, I’m in the process of installing a completly new refrigeration system. In removing the original equipment I found the installation to be lacking. The refrigerant lines run from the compressor to the box in what appears to be a PVC pipe. The lines were insulated for about 6″ from the box and a foot from the compressor. For the entire 12’/14′ run through the PVC there was NO insulation. In fact the two lines were twisted together and taped every 2 -3 feet. This has to have effected the effiiency of the whole unit and probably contibuted to condensation. I don’t know if this was a Friday afternoon boat issue, or if everyone has the same condition. If you can get into the aft locker, you can see into the PVC pipe to check the situation on your boat. Removal of the piping was quite easy. I’m not sure
August 29, 1997 Some early Catalina 380″s may have void areas between the hull and the back of the refrigerators present insulation.Â Voids area will be found on both side as well as the frontal areas.Â Additional foam must be added to the bottom area, some sort of temporary cofferdam will be required in this area.Â The following procedure will increase the “R” value of the refrigerator. Please Take Note: This procedure will require great care in the drilling and injecting of the foam.Â Caution will be required when drilling thru the refrigerator outboard face to the void area.Â Drilling too deep will contact the hull or hull liner.Â Use caution when injecting this foam.Â It can become very messy stuff.Â Clean with lacquer thinner or acetone immediately.Â All drilled hoes to be 1/4″ diameter. Step 1.Â Â Â Â Â Remove range Step 2.Â Â Â Â Â Remove
Refrigerator Upgrade Bob Swanson March, 2006 Hull #: 349 Bob and Janet Swanson onboard English Rose, C 380 #349, came up with a simple solution to an irksome problem. The refrigerator on most of our boats have a removable shelf near the bottom [unlike my older horizontal freezer version], with space for sodas, etc. underneath. Below-shelf access is troublesome at best, requiring removal of just about everything sitting on top of it. Their solution, as shown in the photo: cut off the front part of the shelf [about 1/3], and reinstall it as a two-piece shelf. Removing only the front part of the shelf [requiring removing much less of the items stored above] allows reasonable access to all items below.
Automating Refrigerator Startup and Shutdown with a Battery Combiner George LaForge 2/1/2004 Hull #: 147Â We only run the refrigerator on Freebird when power is available from a charging source. That source is either dockside power or the engine alternator. I try never to run the refrigerator only from battery power. [George- maybe your fridge needs an insulation upgrade; Catalina has a procedure for installing expandable foam–Warren]. Not wanting to run down a battery, yet at the same time wanting to keep beverages cold, we developed a routine: as soon as the engine was started someone would need to go below and switch on the circuit breaker for the refrigerator. And after the engine was shut down someone would need to go below and switch off the breaker. Most of the time the problem was remembering to switch the breaker on when the engine was started. One day while researching
Adding Insulation to Older C380 Refrigerators Catalina Factory August 29, 1997 Hull #: n/a Procedure for Installing Additional Insulation to EARLY Refrigerators: Some early Catalina 380â€™s may have void areas between the hull and the back of the refrigerators present insulation. Voids area will be found on both side as well as the frontal areas. Additional foam must be added to the bottom area, some sort of temporary cofferdam will be required in this area. The following procedure will increase the “R” value of the refrigerator. Please Take Note: This procedure will require great care in the drilling and injecting of the foam. Caution will be required when drilling thru the refrigerator outboard face to the void area. Drilling too deep will contact the hull or hull liner. Use caution when injecting this foam. It can become very messy stuff. Clean with lacquer thinner or acetone immediately. All drilled holes
Condensation in the Refrigerator Jim Jaeschke 9/1/1998 Hull #: 73 On Electra we started noticing in our second season a lot of condensation on the tops of cans in the top part of the refrigerator and also on the top of the refrigerator itself. We performed the dollar bill test which is closing the top cover of the refrigerator with a dollar bill located between the cover and the rubber seal. We found that the dollar bill pulled out easily in several locations along the perimeter which showed that the rubber seal was not touching the top. It was probably compressed from my putting a heavy tool box on the counter. A new one was installed. I also checked, as suggested by other owners, the junction of the counter top and the top of the refrigerator. I found as they had, a gap that could leak air. I sealed the