Water can get into the bilge through the mast and down the compression post. There is a weep hole in the deck plate that often is obstructed so the only place for the water to go is into the boat.
The photo below is the bottom side of the deck plate. If you look at this from the top, it looks like there are a number of weep holes around the sides but those objects are simply cutouts for the bolts. The weep hole is the small grove at the top o the picture. IMHO: It is too small and gets blocked easily.
From Mike and Morning Glory
My 2006, 387 hull #106 has developed. a concerning problem with the cast alloy sparcraft mast step secures the base of the mast to the deck. The mast step is secured to the deck via 4 corner bolts and in my case the casting has fractured in 2 of the corners so now only secured via 2 bolts with the remainder no longer effective.
After sourcing the replacement part #FM-580 from Sparcraft France, next steps were to secure a rigger to undertake the work and prepare for the day to ensure the riggers costs were minimised. In our case we elected to jack the mast manually to avoid significant cost blowouts the use of a crane can trigger.
- Source some 2 mm high-density polyethylene plastic sheet, trace a template of the mast step with a marker, cutting this using scissors seemed to work best, this is required to
Just a heads up all the Charleston Spar (Sparcraft) replacement parts have all been moved to Rig-rite in RI.
These are the spars that I know about:
Early: #1 thru >80 ZSpar (I believe, what you have?)
Mid: <117 thru >304 Charleston
Later (?): >304 Seldon (?) I’m not positive but I think they were all Charlestons til the end (Jay Saxton will know)
I have no idea on 387’s but I’m pretty sure there are Seldon’s as people here have spoken of them. [Editor: My C387 #96 had Charleston Spar]
What I do know is that #117 (at least) through my 199, and probably beyond, have the same masthead casting pictured in the Mainsheet article I did a couple issues ago showing the spinnaker crane installation. I know Paul on 170 has it too. That is the OC2 (Ocean series, number 2) masthead and was used way back in the 80’s on Isomat spars too. Charleston bought Isomat at some point and continued using the castings and extrusions.
FYI for anyone interested. the pic below is one of the rear main halyard sheaves. As you can see the one side is worn right off. the previous owner had oversized halyards and as you can see bigger isn’t always better. so if you are finding the main harder to hoist or it’s not dropping as easily have a good look at the sheaves. I replaced all 6 with ones from Garhauer with bearings as well as new axles from Rigrite.
I use another method for going up the mast that works for me, a big guy whose crew is half my size. Here is my method:
- Use two halyards – one halyard to lift/support you and another halyard with the bottom end fixed to the deck at the foot of the mast
- Tie a Prussic knot to the fixed halyard – see: http://www.animatedknots.com/prusik/index.php?Categ=rescue&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com Make the Prussic knot loop about 3’ long
- I use both a safety harness and a boson’s chair
- The boson’s chair is attached to the free halyard. As Phill pointed out, since you need to get above the top of the mast you need to have very short connections on all the tie-off points
- Slide the safety harness climbing device as you move up or down the mast. Entire setups are available in Home Depot that works just fine
- Put one foot in the Prussic knot
Posted by: “Paul and Carol McManus”
The bridge clearance for my tall rig is 61′ 3″. My 380 specs say the standard rig is 4′ shorter than the tall rig. My clearance also includes a 2′ 7″ for a VHF antenna. So if have a typical sailboat VHF antenna. Your bridge clearance should be about 57′ 3″. If don’t have a VHF antenna then your wind vane is the tallest point and you can subtract another foot for a clearance of 56′ 3″. By the way I used 5′ 9″ for my water line to base of the mast measurement. I have the Charleston Spar conventional mast. All these dimensions were taken with the boat hauled and the mast unstepped.
Sea Sea Rider C380 #185 Port Orchard, WA
Eliminating Dismasting Possibility
Hull #: 44
Simple Repair Eliminates Dismasting Possibility
I don’t mean to worry our C380 captains–the chances are pretty remote for a dismasting–but one of our fleet did suffer this “fate”, so I thought some relevant info would be helpful to at least a few of our members.
The particular unhappy event took place with winds gusting to 30+ kts. Before departure, the rig appeared normal per the captain’s brief check. Early conditions had winds in the low 20’s, so the C380, which had a Z-Spar tall rig, was reefed accordingly. Just after coming about, the mast folded to port/aft about 10 feet above the deck. Luckily, no one was hurt.
Subsequent inspection revealed all stays, shrouds & chainplates to be intact, with no obvious fault. It was noted that a lower-spreader tip had been dislodged, and was “hanging” in the now-loose rigging.
Furling Main Maintenance
November, 2005 Hull #: 271
Our Commodore, Earle Ellefsen [C380 #271, Valkyrie], discovered chafe near one end of his mainsail furling line. He decided to turn the line end-for-end, and remove the chafed area as there was excess line length. The key step in accomplishing this was to remove the bolt, which locks-in the furling line, near the bottom of the furler. Of course, an “opportunity” soon arose when Earle realized that the bolt was Stainless Steel in an aluminum furler and, with a few years of salt-water environment, was thoroughly corroded in-place. Many shots of WD-40 later, nothing had changed! Early attempts at removal quickly resulted in losing the slot– or, as Earle put it: “it torqued open”. Obviously the bolt should have had a more substantial gripping head.
Once the slot was destroyed, heavy locking pliers are the obvious choice, right? Wrong– their