Replacing damaged mast step

My 2006, 387 hull #106 has developed. a concerning problem with the cast alloy sparcraft mast step secures the base of the mast to the deck. The mast step is secured to the deck via 4 corner bolts and in my case the casting has fractured in 2 of the corners so now only secured via 2 bolts with the remainder no longer effective. After sourcing the replacement part #FM-580 from Sparcraft France, next steps were to secure a rigger to undertake the work and prepare for the day to ensure the riggers costs were minimised. In our case we elected to jack the mast manually to avoid significant cost blowouts the use of a crane can trigger. Preparation tasks: Source some 2 mm high-density polyethylene plastic sheet, trace a template of the mast step with a marker, cutting this using scissors seemed to work best, this is required to

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Charleston Spar Parts

Just a heads up all the Charleston Spar (Sparcraft) replacement parts have all been moved to Rig-rite in RI. Thanks, Steve C380 #93

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Spar Manufacturers

These are the spars that I know about: Early: #1 thru >80 ZSpar (I believe, what you have?) Mid: <117 thru >304 Charleston Later (?): >304 Seldon (?) I’m not positive but I think they were all Charlestons til the end (Jay Saxton will know) I have no idea on 387’s but I’m pretty sure there are Seldon’s as people here have spoken of them. [Editor: My C387 #96 had Charleston Spar] What I do know is that #117 (at least) through my 199, and probably beyond, have the same masthead casting pictured in the Mainsheet article I did a couple issues ago showing the spinnaker crane installation. I know Paul on 170 has it too. That is the OC2 (Ocean series, number 2) masthead and was used way back in the 80’s on Isomat spars too. Charleston bought Isomat at some point and continued using the castings and extrusions.Â

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Mast Sheaves

FYI for anyone interested. the pic below is one of the rear main halyard sheaves. As you can see the one side is worn right off. the previous owner had oversized halyards and as you can see bigger isn’t always better. so if you are finding the main harder to hoist or it’s not dropping as easily have a good look at the sheaves. I replaced all 6 with ones from Garhauer with bearings as well as new axles from Rigrite. Paul hull 170

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Climbing the Mast

I use another method for going up the mast that works for me, a big guy whose crew is half my size. Here is my method: Use two halyards – one halyard to lift/support you and another halyard with the bottom end fixed to the deck at the foot of the mast Tie a Prussic knot to the fixed halyard – see:  http://www.animatedknots.com/prusik/index.php?Categ=rescue&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com  Make the Prussic knot loop about 3’ long I use both a safety harness and a boson’s chair The boson’s chair is attached to the free halyard. As Phill pointed out, since you need to get above the top of the mast you need to have very short connections on all the tie-off points Slide the safety harness climbing device as you move up or down the mast. Entire setups are available in Home Depot that works just fine Ascending: Put one foot in the

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Bridge Clearance

Posted by: “Paul and Carol McManus” 5/20/2009 The bridge clearance for my tall rig is 61′ 3″. My 380 specs say the standard rig is 4′ shorter than the tall rig. My clearance also includes a 2′ 7″ for a VHF antenna. So if have a typical sailboat VHF antenna. Your bridge clearance should be about 57′ 3″. If don’t have a VHF antenna then your wind vane is the tallest point and you can subtract another foot for a clearance of 56′ 3″. By the way I used 5′ 9″ for my water line to base of the mast measurement. I have the Charleston Spar conventional mast. All these dimensions were taken with the boat hauled and the mast unstepped. Paul McManus Sea Sea Rider C380 #185 Port Orchard, WA

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Eliminating Dismasting Possibility

Eliminating Dismasting Possibility Warren Elliott August, 2008 Hull #: 44 Simple Repair Eliminates Dismasting Possibility I don’t mean to worry our C380 captains–the chances are pretty remote for a dismasting–but one of our fleet did suffer this “fate”, so I thought some relevant info would be helpful to at least a few of our members. The particular unhappy event took place with winds gusting to 30+ kts. Before departure, the rig appeared normal per the captain’s brief check. Early conditions had winds in the low 20’s, so the C380, which had a Z-Spar tall rig, was reefed accordingly. Just after coming about, the mast folded to port/aft about 10 feet above the deck. Luckily, no one was hurt. Subsequent inspection revealed all stays, shrouds &amp; chainplates to be intact, with no obvious fault. It was noted that a lower-spreader tip had been dislodged, and was “hanging” in the now-loose rigging.

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Cracked Mast Step – Mainsheet February 2005

Cracked Mast Step-Version II Ted Sholl 2/1/2005 Hull #: 257 Cracked Mast Step – Version II This is a summary of Ted Sholl’s experience with his C380. His article was submitted for publication several issues back, but was removed due to lack of space. Subsequently it somehow “slipped through the crack” [pardon the pun]. With the passage of time, boats with this problem probably have all been discovered and repaired. However, just in case, here’s some “food for thought”. My apologies to Ted, whose full article is on our website. Shortly after taking delivery of “Sound of Silence” hull #257 in July 2000, we noticed some cracks and apparent corrosion around the circumference of the mast step [collar] that sits at the base of the mast and is attached to the cabin roof [and compression post below]. The mast fits into the collar and is held in place by a

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Furling Main Maintenance

Furling Main Maintenance Earle Ellefsen November, 2005 Hull #: 271 Our Commodore, Earle Ellefsen [C380 #271, Valkyrie], discovered chafe near one end of his mainsail furling line. He decided to turn the line end-for-end, and remove the chafed area as there was excess line length. The key step in accomplishing this was to remove the bolt, which locks-in the furling line, near the bottom of the furler. Of course, an “opportunity” soon arose when Earle realized that the bolt was Stainless Steel in an aluminum furler and, with a few years of salt-water environment, was thoroughly corroded in-place. Many shots of WD-40 later, nothing had changed! Early attempts at removal quickly resulted in losing the slot– or, as Earle put it: “it torqued open”. Obviously the bolt should have had a more substantial gripping head. Once the slot was destroyed, heavy locking pliers are the obvious choice, right? Wrong– their

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Steering, Boom Height, Cleats, GPS

STEERING, BOOM HEIGHT, CLEATS, GPS Wolfgang Doebel, Warren Elliott 2/1/2002 Hull #: 336 The following was emailed to me from a new 380 owner from Canada: Hello Warren, Have you ever come across one of the following? Do you have any ideas to help? The steering mechanism on my C380, at times seems, to get partially hung up, especially when moving through the neutral position. The problem is not severe but it takes out a lot of fun from steering. Also one must always expect some problems to happen if the cause of the concern is not fully understood. There is an Autopilot ST6000 plus connected to the rudder post, but it does not seem to be the cause, as the problem does not exist when traveling under power alone (no pressure on the rudder, not much tension on the cables). I have investigated the mechanical condition of the pedestal

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