C385 Alternator/Voltage Regulator

I recently became the owner of C85#71 and took my first extended cruise on her last month. I discovered that the two 4D batteries she came with aren’t enough to keep up with the load when I run both the refrigerator and the freezer (which seem to pull an average of about 5 amps, or about 120 amp hours in a day, too much for the 160 amp hour rated battery.) I don’t have a genset, so the only way to recharge the house bank when not plugged into shore power is to run the engine. But at the rate the original alternator charges up, it takes at least a couple of hours to top off the house bank.

I understand that part of the problem is that the internal regulator on the alternator isn’t designed to do a rapid recharge of a house bank. I’m considering installing an external voltage regulator, and maybe replacing the alternator. The alternator that came with the boat is rated at 125 amps, bigger than the 55 amp version I gather was standard on some of the earlier hulls. The current alternator should be plenty big, but I don’t know if it would be possible simply to put on a Balmar or other external regulator, rewiring the alternator to take the internal regulator out of the circuit. Or would it be better to replace the alternator, too? I’d appreciate any advice.

Preheat Switch

I have a C380 Hull#223 “Calypso”. The weather is getting cold and my Westerbeke 42b4 manual says hit the PreHeat Switch before starting. I might be lame, but cannot find on my pedestal. Any ideas as to where I can find it? Pictures? Thanks, Ralph

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30 amp power cord

I have a 2002 Catalina 390. Is it recommend to plug in 2-30 amp cords to shore power when running AC, refrigerator, and microwave?  Without the microwave we are using around 10 amps. Thanks, wes

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Preheat Switch

I have a C380 Hull#223. The weather getting cold and my westerbeke 42b4 manual says hit the PreHeat Switch before starting. I might be lame, but cannot find on my pedestal. Any ideas as to where I can find it?

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air conditioning on the Catalina 387

I have 2 ac units on this Catalina 2008   16000 BTU under V Berth  and 7000 BTU in aft closet.   The AC Coil in the V Berth  that has been protected with a filter(always clean) has become totally degraded; when I take a vacuum and a brush to clean, it isn’t dirt that is coming off the fins, it is metal debris from same;  I can’t even imagine how the ac is even able to cool. Anyway, being that the unit is 9 years old, I don’t trust it and want to replace.  The problem unit is the 16000 BTU in the forward V Berth   The unit that is in there is a Marvair SeaMach; I can’t begin to figure out how the hell they got it in there or how to get it out and how I can install a new like and kind. Any suggestions from my fellow Catalina owners.   Thanks  

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Rudder Post Screws

There are three screw holes in the lower rudder post bearing. According to Warren Pandy at Catalina, these were originally to secure the lower bearing to the hull but for a number of years now they have not been used and are unnecessary. The lower bearing needs to be secured to the boat using 3M 4200.

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PlasDeck

From Paul, Hull C380, #170 Plasdeck is similar in nature to Nuteak. It is coloured all the way through but the seams are all welded , not glued. Guy came and took all the templates, they are sent to a factory in Ohio where they make each panel. They are shipped here and installed as individual panels.   Chris Aslin from Aslin Boat Builders in Toronto did the work. It took him a good day to make all the templates and about 11/2 days to install. Prep from my side was make sure it was good and clean and dry as well as all dodger/bimini poles that mounted to the deck came off. Taxes in it was $5000CAD. It took about 5 weeks from when the templates were made till install. The templates are sent to the factory in Ohio and then the finished panels are delivered to the

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Furling Main Issues

A number of members have talked about problems with their furling main becoming difficult to pull out from the mast in spite of following recommendations of keeping tension on the outhaul when pulling it in and keeping the boom relatively at 90 degrees vis a vis the mast. My experience with the same issue after 8 years of sailing my 387 was that the sail itself had stretched out such that it didn’t roll up tightly and consistently over the length of the sail. This caused a bunching in the slot of the mast. For a while, I had to literally pull it out by hand. North Sails finally diagnosed the problem for me. A new sail solved the problem. Recutting the old one was not cost effective. I have also experienced the furling mechanism getting stuck when the main halyard is not tight and thus

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