Procedure for Installing Additional Insulation to Early Refrigerators

August 29, 1997 Some early Catalina 380″s may have void areas between the hull and the back of the refrigerators present insulation. Voids area will be found on both side as well as the frontal areas. Additional foam must be added to the bottom area, some sort of temporary cofferdam will be required in this area. The following procedure will increase the “R” value of the refrigerator. Please Take Note: This procedure will require great care in the drilling and injecting of the foam. Caution will be required when drilling thru the refrigerator outboard face to the void area. Drilling too deep will contact the hull or hull liner. Use caution when injecting this foam. It can become very messy stuff. Clean with lacquer thinner or acetone immediately. All drilled hoes to be 1/4″ diameter. Step 1. Remove range Step 2. Remove

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Companionway Hatch Cover Repair

I wanted to share with all of you the outcome of the companionway hatch cover that I wrote about a few weeks ago. Here is what I said at the time. Mine, a 2000, hull 226, I guess is what Warren described as the “old” slider version, which is all smoked acrylic. I have a similar problem –hatch sticks and, depending on the weather, it is almost impossible to open and close. Two companies in the yard (general maintenance and a fiberglass expert) have looked at the hatch and the hatch frame and both concluded that the “sticking” problem is caused by a structural problem with the framing. According to both, the cabin hatch frame has a wood base that the hatch frame screws into. According to one person who looked at the framing, a certain amount of non-orthodox adjustments were made to build up the frame to accommodate the

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Cockpit Table Support Source

Cockpit Table Support Source The cockpit table braces are Mobella part# MT-05-330-7, available from www.southco.com for $19.95 each. To order, you need to telephone them at 321-638-4990. Dick Dyer Free Spirit #319 Also: Catalina Direct see link. http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1892&ParentCat=72   Also: I called Ken Roy(727-544-6681) at Catalina to order the pair that I needed to replace. An e-mail or call to Warren Pandy would also work. Bill Worsley Southern Skies C380 #302

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Bridge Clearance

Posted by: “Paul and Carol McManus” 5/20/2009 The bridge clearance for my tall rig is 61′ 3″. My 380 specs say the standard rig is 4′ shorter than the tall rig. My clearance also includes a 2′ 7″ for a VHF antenna. So if have a typical sailboat VHF antenna. Your bridge clearance should be about 57′ 3″. If don’t have a VHF antenna then your wind vane is the tallest point and you can subtract another foot for a clearance of 56′ 3″. By the way I used 5′ 9″ for my water line to base of the mast measurement. I have the Charleston Spar conventional mast. All these dimensions were taken with the boat hauled and the mast unstepped. Paul McManus Sea Sea Rider C380 #185 Port Orchard, WA

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Raymarine Autopilot C380

Posted by Tim: TKP62@aol.com 04/07/2009 I’ll chime in here as I have been doing a lot of research to upgrade my A/H. This is all Raymarine info, as I have no experience or knowledge on Furuno units. I have a 1999 C380 with (factory?) installed ST6000 and a Type I linear drive (electric ball-screw type ram drive) mounted under the transom step and connected to an Edson arm (this part is readily available from Edson, and is specifically designed for linear drive units). The ST6000 is an old unit with no other unit other than the control head, where all electrical connections are made. It does not handle heavy seas very well at all, and forget quartering seas. It will steer to a waypoint (if properly connected to a GPS), or a wind angle, as well as a simple compass course. It is a basic A/H. The last (now retired)

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