Engine Differences across C380 and C387

Previous posts have given specifications for the two different Yanmar engines used in the C387 series. Warren has provided below some additional interesting information on engine and transmission differences across the C380-C387 series…. Tom Should you want to delve further into engine differences, –in this case between the two boats—one design fact that has baffled me is why the two engines [in this case: 3, but the 2 Yanmars have the same trend] have opposite-trending fwd/rev gear ratios. Specifically, the Westerbeke 42b has 2.63/1.95 fwd/rev gearing, while the Yanmars [JH3] has 2.61/3.16 fwd/rev reduction ratios!!?? It looks like Westerbeke realizes that owner/operators want to operate at low RPM’s in reverse, but Yanmar believes operators like to operate near the same throttle for both directions??? Have asked a couple of “experts”, but no definitive answer. Perhaps Tim has some thoughts on this. To carry this a bit further, I see that

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Yanmar 3JH4 Engine Specifications (C387)

C387 boats have had two types of Yanmar engines — 3JH3xx and 3JH4xx. Note that the 3JH3 engine has a much higher engine RPM to reach max horsepower than does the 3JH4. Note also that this means that the transmission will also be different. The change to 3JH4 engines took place around hull #60. The following is the specification for the 3JH4 engine:  

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Yanmar 3JH3 Engine Specifications (C387)

C387 boats have had two types of Yanmar engines — 3JH3xx and 3JH4xx. Note that the 3JH3 engine has a much higher engine RPM to reach max horsepower. Note also that this means that the transmission will also be different. The change to 3JH4 engines took place around hull #60. The following is the specification for the 3JH3 engine:

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Paddlewheel on Speed Transducer – Discussion

New boat to us, and previous owner did not have the knotmeter installed in hull fitting, just the plug was installed. Boat is still on the hard, and bottom of plug has bottom paint on it, which led us to believe that the knotmeter was not working. Was able to get someone to watch meter while I turned the paddlewheel. Meter is working, but paddlewheel is binding, and I doubt if it would turn at all at very low speed. Any work that has to be done on the sender unit is highly restricted because of the length of free cable and it’s position in the forward cabin. Two questions; 1. Has anyone ever cut the cable and installed male and female plugs in order to remove sender from boat and work on it 2. Before I attempt to remove the pin, and ream out hole in the paddlewheel with

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Wing versus Fin Keel – Discussion

There was considerable discussion on Wing versus Fin Keel, which was best, which had better pointing ability, etc. Here are a couple of the better responses: On Feb 13, 2012, at 9:56 PM, “tvrf_engr”wrote: The C380 is on our short list of boats to look closely at once our current boat sells. I’m very skeptical of shoal-draft keels, as our current boat can’t realize a GPS course inside 50-55 degrees off the wind without iron-genny support. Some 380 owners we’ve talked with have the wing keel and report no significant issues with it sailing upwind, while another has quite the opposite view. Of course, the boats that the Admiral is most attracted to have wing keels! Anyway, I’m interested in hearing some more observations as to the performance of the two versions of keels – especially from anyone who has sailed both. We don’t frequent or long to visit any

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Installation of Raymarine Digital Radar

Since I’ve not pulled the mast on our C380, I can’t definitively speak to the conduit in the mast. Yet, I’m pretty confident that you can use the old radar cable to pull the new digital cable through the existing conduit. From the diagrams in the manual, the digital cables look to be about the same diameter or smaller. They should be smaller since coax has been replaced by digital signal wires, along the more efficient digital scanner drawing less current. The Raymarine digital radar manual provides extension cable part numbers. These are likely the appropriate part numbers, but check to be sure. 2.5 m (8.2 ft) extension cable A92141 5 m (16.4 ft) extension cable A55080 10 m (32.8 ft) extension cable A55081 Historically it wasn’t a good idea to splice coax radar cables, but now that the cables are digital, it’s probably not as critical. If you feel

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Installation of Digital Radar

I installed my digital radar two years ago with the mast down. It was a new installation so new mounting hole in the mast for the cable, tapping holes in the masts etc. It is low enough though to use an extension later to install just above the first spreader and above the deck/steaming light. If you had a makeshift scaffold would save you from being a contortionist. The Cat 5 cable is functional and I have used it for testing and temporary use, but there are several significant differences. First Cat 5 cable is solid wire and not the best choice on our boat, Raymarine is stranded. The Raymarine has a metal housing which may provide continuity of the shield which Cat 5 does not have. The waterproof outer housing at the chartplotter may be an advantage, as I did get moisture in the connector at the back of

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New Salon Table for CM38cc

When we bought our CM38cc the table was placed rather ridiculously about 6″ away from the mast post so was impossible to get around from the forward end. I ruminates for a year on how to correct, all the while NOT relishing the work of building a new table. As well as being badly placed, it was too low, to the point where it was nearly impossible to skootch your thighs under it. A light finally went on and I realized that when I added blocking (2 layers of 3/4″ ply) to the underside to raise the table, I could also relocate the brackets to provide clearance at the mast post. It all worked like a charm!    

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Cockpit Table Modification

Mine table is permanently stored at home with the cocktail table, cushions and short tubes. It’s too bad we don’t have use of the berth, but the table is too big and all that gear takes up too much space. I replaced it with a roughly 2′ by 3′ piece of edge glued oak that I tried (unsuccessfully) to stain to match the teak. I also built a simple wooden sliding mechanism so the new table can be slid toward the bulkhead when you want to access the port-side shelf or blinds, and slid back and locked in place for dining. Basically, there is a 1′ by 2′ plywood platform attached to the posts in place of the table. It has angled edges on the long sides. The table has angled wooden rails screwed to its underside. The rails keep the table from lifting off the platform, but allow it

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