Heat Exchanger Cleaning

1. Obtain replacement “O ring” gaskets (2). 2. Drain coolant from heat exchanger (drain under aft end of heat exchanger. 3. Loosen / remove hoses that will interfere with heat exchanger removal. 4. Remove bolts securing alternator & alternator brackets. Secure alternator forward and out of the way (should not need to remove wires). Be careful not to lose spacer holding alternator to engine block. 5. Remove bolts from caps securing heat exchanger core. Tap caps with rubber mallet to loosen and remove. 6. Score end of heat exchanger core to align same with heat exchanger body. Slide forward and remove. 7. Clean / service heat exchanger core (Rod out tubes, soak in radiator flush for 24 hours. Clean with brass wire brush. Be careful not to lose straight horizontal rubber/plastic gasket mounted on aft end of heat exchange core. [Editor note: Yanmar recommends replacement of the O-Rings and end

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C380 Westerbeke/Yanmar Transition

It’s interesting that you have the Yanmar engine with C380 hull #184. I have C380 hull #185 and have a Westerbeke engine. I had thought that there were several Westerbekes after my hull #. Looks like I got one of the last Westerbekes or did the Previous Owner of your boat decide to wait for a Yanmar engine? Paul McManus Sea Sea Rider C380 #185 Port Orchard, WA   When we were looking to buy our C380, I called both Warren Pandy, and the Westerbeake representative that handled both warranty issues. I recall Warren explaining that there really wasn’t a specific hull number that could be sited as when the transition occurred. As I recall he mentioned that they tested the Yanmars on a boat or two prior to making the final decision to transition. He further indicated that even when the decision was final, the transition really didn’t occur

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Salon Floor Refinishing

I am planning on refinishing the floor down below this spring. I recall others have used regular floor polyurethane. What specific brand has been best, and what finish (gloss, semi-gloss, satin)? Any hints? thanks, Steve Klegman C380 # 113, Folie A’ Deux   Steve– Yep–we used std floor poly—-from Home Depot or Lowes…maybe Minwax. Semi-gloss per admiral Jeanne. Has lasted 11 or 12 years & still looks good except in one small area under table which is most-used spot. Will probably try to spot refinish. Yor’re probably aware that with poly extra care is needed to make area dust free. When I did flooring, I took all the pieces home, so much easier to work/sand/apply & keep dust free: vacuum/wipe. We do use a strip-type carpet in main walkway. Warren C 380 #44, My Bride II

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Raw Water Alarm

All, In a sidebar conversation, Warren came up with a really simple way to add the raw water alarm to our boats. The sensor that straps to the exhaust hose can be wired into the existing circuit for the engine overtemp alarm. This way, if either the engine overheats, or the exhaust hose gets too hot from lack of raw water, the alarm will sound. The sensor alone is just $54. The steps would be: 1. Strap the sensor to the exhaust hose just below the water injection elbow. 2. route both wires to the terminal strip in the engine compartment. 3. connect the black wire from the sensor to the same terminal with the black ground wire. 4. connect the purple wire to the same terminal as the engine overtemp alarm. This wire could be identified by finding the sender on the engine or looking at the back of

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Raw Water Alarm

Today I installed the raw water alarm. I purchased this unit, which has a temp sensor which straps onto the exhaust hose after the water injector. If it gets too hot, it closes and completes a circuit to ground, just like the engine oil and temp alarms. The idea is to warn me of the loss of cooling water before the uncooled engine exhaust cooks the exhaust hose and/or muffler. This happened to me on a charter boat in the BVIs in January. Black smoke billowing out of the engine room is no fun! http://www.borelmfg.com/products_alarm.htm There was room in my engine panel to install this, and it is shallow enough that it fit even in the center where the pod is shallowest to fit around the pedestal. Hopefully the pictures below come through: Cut a 1-7/8″ hole in the panel From the back, wired the + to the power

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Wheel Covers

  I’m planning to get a new padded leather wheel cover. The two venders that I’ve narrowed it down to are Edson Marine, and Boatleather.com. They are both in the same price range. Does anyone have any comparative info about the products of these two companies? Tom Soko Juniper C400 #307 Noank, CT   I had my wheel covered four years ago by Color Wheelz WWW.COLORWHEELZ.COM . It is an excellent product and reasonable. Chris Vasilas KATERINA C380 #291 Greenport, NY    

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Wheel Cover Project

I made the wheel cover out of 1/8” low stretch braided line. The first wheel cover I did this way is still in service on my previous boat after 25 years and this one is in excellent shape after 5 years. How it is done is to tie continuous clove hitches and pull the knots very tight. The results is a spiral ridge around the wheel. To mark when the wheel is mid ship I also wrapped the top spoke and put a Turks head on the top of the wheel. Those two marks also serve as tactile feedback so you can feel how far the wheel is turned. Similar to a leather wheel the line covered wheel is much warmer and more comfortable on the hand. We rarely need gloves when on the helm. I don’t remember the length of material needed, but think it was about 300’. I

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AGM Battery Failure

Hi All, Thought I’d share a scary experience. I was jarred awake just prior to 5 AM by our aft carbon monoxide detector alarming. There was an odd pungent smell, and even odder sound. The sound was kind of like a cross between crackling and chattering high pitch. I quickly vented the boat, and started looking for the source of the smell and sound. I eliminated an oil filled electric heater, and eventually isolated the sound to my battery compartment. I found the starboard MK Deka 8A4D AGM battery quite hot, gassing, with visible rapid bubbling in the caps. I immediately shut off the charger, vacated the boat and gave the batteries a couple hours to cool down before removing any cables fearing a spark. It was very fortunate that I was on the boat, and able to interrupt a thermal run-away of the AGM battery. While AGM battery manufacturers

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Transom Shower Replacement Part

For those needing to replace a broken Transom Show head, host, or entire unit…..Checkout Catalina Direct, They also sell the parts or whole unit. http://catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1754 Regards Paul AVID II 1999 #148 380 Catalina   I found the whole mixing body for $54 at Heater Craft http://www.heatercraft.com/ . They also have replacement hoses and heads for $41. Look in Marine, Parts. My borther-in-law prefers a standard sink sprayer for his camper shower. It is drip-free when not in use, but I don’t like the in-ability to have it running hands-free for hair rinsing. It depends on your preference. I replaced my shower hose last year with a standard one from HD. I they also have shower heads with shut-offs. Dan Ross Zephyr #303

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Working on Your Boat Tip..reaching the Unreachable

Ever had to reach a wire, or a dropped piece of hardware that was impossible to grab even with mechanical fingers, here’s an easy and very cheap tool you can make that will allow you to complete what you thought would be an impossible job. History While flying along some stormy night in your small four cylinder airplane, nothing will get your heart rate to speed up more than a sticking valve that will cause you to lose 25% of your power. (Been there, done that!!) Short of pulling the faulty cylinder off the engine once you’re back safe and sound on the ground, the usual and least expensive way to fix the valve, (usually the exhaust from lead deposits on the stem and guide) is to drop the valve into the cylinder. Then you will hone out the valve guide, and polish the valve stem with very fine emery

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