Another Approach to Cockpit Table Extension

I looked at Tom B’s cockpit table extension which is really a beautiful piece ofĀ craftmanship, not to forget the other work he has done on retro-fitting theĀ plastic pieces with wood. Our approach is a little different based on our experience with the wooden tableĀ extension we have for the galley table which is rarely used and I’m forever worried about scratching it while in storage where ever there is space thatĀ day!! So, for the 3 or 4 times a year that we might need a larger cockpit table, we’veĀ come up with extension made out of pressed board that I had lying around theĀ shop. I feel that a few coats of white primer and white exterior paint will keepĀ it useable for many years as long as it doesn’t sit in pools of water. AlsoĀ won’t worry about scratches where ever I store it. Our preliminary

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Matching Interior Teak Color

I am currently dealing with this issue because of discoloration caused by battery acid from a sloppy installer. I have found that golden pecan and golden oak from minwax stain and sealer in one are a very close match on our 2005 387. Ed Wolf 387, hull 82 I’ve added some teak to the cabin In the past and got a very good match. I look for the lightest colored teak wood that I can find and then coat it with Goldstar satin #60. You can’t really tell the difference. I’m doing some work right now where the old TV was. The wood I purchased was a bit darker then what I’ve used in the past and I can see a slight difference from some angles, but it is passable. I don ‘t know if staining is required? The varnish seems to give the correct color to the wood. Bob

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Climbing the Mast

I use another method for going up the mast that works for me, a big guy whose crew is half my size. Here is my method: Use two halyards – one halyard to lift/support you and another halyard with the bottom end fixed to the deck at the foot of the mast Tie a Prussic knot to the fixed halyard ā€“ see: Ā http://www.animatedknots.com/prusik/index.php?Categ=rescue&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com Ā Make the Prussic knot loop about 3ā€™ long I use both a safety harness and a bosonā€™s chair The bosonā€™s chair is attached to the free halyard.Ā As Phill pointed out, since you need to get above the top of the mast you need to have very short connections on all the tie-off points Slide the safety harness climbing device as you move up or down the mast.Ā Entire setups are available in Home Depot that works just fine Ascending: Put one foot in the

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Anemometer (Wind Instrument) Repair – Discussion

Yesterday I took a new wind vane and anemometer up the mast (the plasticĀ wind vane is broken). The yard had gotten replacements that looked likeĀ exact duplicates from the deck. It turns out that the old instrumentsĀ (ST60) are attached with a tiny Alan screw on the side whereas the new onesĀ have a small screw in the middle. Upon removing the wind vane we found onlyĀ a solid stud with an indent for the Allan screw. There was no hole in theĀ center of the stud that would accept the screw. Has anyone replaced these components, and do you know if the old type with the Allan screw are available? I will head over to the yard later today but it would be nice to be armed with more information. The manual on the Tech CD doesn’t give any part numbers for the wind vane. Thanks, Craig Spear

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Engine blower timer – Discussion

A number of people have asked about how one might create a timer to keep the engine blower running for some period of time after the engine has been turned off rather than have it stop as soon as the engine is stopped.Ā The following were comments made: Has anyone wired the blower to work when the key isnā€™t turned on?Ā It would seem to me that doing this may help cool the engine at the end of the day and not bleed so much heat into the stern cabin? Just a thought. Tom Brantigan C387 #96 Toccata in Sea If you say that it helps keep the temp in the aft cabin down I think I may rewire the blower also. How about adding a time delay relay so that the blower stays on for 15 -20 minutes after shutting down the engine? Do you think this will

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iPad to Raymarine E80 Connection

Mainsheet September 2012 Jeff Church Some of us are just a bit obsessive about getting that last quarter of a knot out of our boat. We spend most of our time at the winches and very little behind the helm, which presents a problem. There are no instruments forward of the helm, so how do we know what all that trimming is doing to our boat speed? The usual solution is to have a crew member call out boat speed, or locate a wired repeater somewhere under the dodger. With the proliferation of Apple wireless devices, there is a much easier way to view all of your navigation information from anywhere in the cockpit or even below decks. The iPad and iPhone have revolutionized many aspects of our lives, and now they are starting to change the boating electronics industry. I discovered this phenomenon last fall at the Annapolis Strictly

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Maxwell Winlass Chair Size

I believe the correct chain size is 5/16 BB. I use 100 ft then spliced onto 250 ft 5/8 rode. Virtually all of my anchoring situations have been with less than 100 ft chain, so I normally do not have to run the splice through the windlass (and potentially jam), In Florida now, I would be lucky to put out as much as 50 ft of chain. Fred Ganz Stealing Home #168 C380 St Petersburg, FL

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Weaver Davits – Follow-up

Like the author of that article, after installing the Weaver davits I had a minor problem with the tail of my 8.5 foot dinghy dragging when sailing with a fair amount of heel. I had positioned the davits so that when sitting in the dinghy I could slide the the davit hoops on the dinghy right into the clips on the transom. This spring I raised the davit plates about a 4″, re-using the top holes in the transom. I can’t say for sure that this fixed the problem, but it wasn’t much of an issue in the first place. I’m sure this will be good enough. I don’t have a picture on my Picasa site that clearly shows the installed height of the davits. I’ll take a picture of the transom this weekend and post it with my other davit pics. http://www.catalina380.org/index.php/photo-album?wppa-album=5&wppa-cover=0&wppa-occur=1 Jeff C387 #145 I added a couple

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AIS for iPhone and iPad

Check out the following (assuming you have cell coverage): Ship Finder mAIS VTExplorerer Marine Traffic Boat Beacon

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Shower Pan Leak

Last weekend we used the shower for the first time this year. A significant leak quickly developed. Water entered the main salon at the seam between the teak panelling and the sole just to the right of the nav station. The shower pan looks fine. The leak could be coming from the seam between the shower wall and the shower pan or possibly something underneath associated with the shower drain. Does anyone have experience with this kind of leak? Rick Stewart s/v Moon Eye C380, #51 I re-caulked all the shower seams year before last. The trick is to make sure you get all the old silicone off because silicone sealant doesn’t adhere to itself. I removed all the trim, used scribes, sandpaper, and silicone remover, making sure to remove it completely. Thoroughly wiped surfaces with MEK, then re-applied the highest quality silicone sealant I could find, pushing it deeply

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