Honda Generators – Discussion

Here is a discussion from members using Honda Generators: We recently moved our Catalina/Morgan 380cc to South West Fl (Punta Gorda) from Long Island NY. When we lived on Long Island we only occasion ly needed air conditioning. This time of the year down here it is almost a necessity every night. The problem is it rains many nights down here as well. I am able to run the air with my Honda 2000 and I normally put the unit on the swim platform or up at the base of the mast when in use. So my question is can the Honda be exposed to a down pour or should it be covered. I know that some of you store the Honda at the mast, do you cover it and what do you do in the rain? Thanks Clint Stoddard of SuSea Q Clint, I store my Honda at the

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Rigging a Boom Preventer

(The following article is reprinted with permission from the Catalina 320 group.) According to Wikipedia, “A preventer, or jibe-guard, is a mechanical device on a sailing vessel which limits the boom’s ability to swing dangerously across the boat during an accidental jibe. The uncontrolled jibe (or gybe) is feared by all sensible yachtsmen. The heavy boom can potentially inflict severe head injuries or dispatch crew members over board; even the mainsheet or traveler can also inflict serious injury. Uncontrolled jibes may also damage the boat itself.” On Sea Shadow, a Catalina 320 (#808), we take the threat of the uncontrolled jibe very seriously. While I have always secured the boom to a forward deck cleat when sailing any lower than 120 degrees apparent off the wind, it was not until I had the opportunity to sail with Orlando Duran on his Catalina Morgan 44 that I learned a better way

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Sources for Yanmar Parts

The following sources have been identified for Yanmar parts: Baltimore, MD: Tidewater Yacht Services – 321 Cromwell Street, Baltimore, MD 21230 410-625-4992 http://www.tysc.com/ Annapolis, MD: Bay Shore Marine – 7344 Edgewood Rd. Annapolis, MD 21403 Phone: (410) 263-8370 Fax: (410) 267-7354 E-mail: http://www.bayshoremarineengines.com/Pages/contact.html Duxbury, MA: Long Point Marine – 553 Washington Street, Duxbury, MA 02331 (Ask for Larry) Muskegon, MI: Torresen Marine, Inc. 3003 Lake Shore Drive – Muskegon, Michigan 49441 Phone: 231-759-8596 – Fax: 231-755-1522http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Yanmar/index.php?p=include&contentsection=yanmar&contentname=engine    

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Transmission Clutch Cable Problem

This past weekend we lost reverse when maneuvering to anchor. On investigation it appears all is well with the transmission, however, the transmission cable (called a clutch cable by Edson) is not communicating in the push direction with the transmission shift lever. We removed the compass and pedestal cover which revealed the steering chain and clutch cable and throttle cable attachment points. All appears intact. The problem is the cable sheath appears to have come loose from a mounting point below the shift lever (perhaps 6 inches below the shift lever crossbar). The cable doesn’t move inside the outer sheath at the transmission. My question is, how do you replace the clutch cable and in particular how is it attached inside the pedestal? I didn’t see anything on the Edson website on how to gain access inside the pedestal. FYI. Removing the black plastic compass base was a nightmare.

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Raymarine E7 Experience

We were heading out on our annual trip to the San Juan and Gulf islands and found that the Radar wasn’t working. We have had to go in fog the last couple times and decide not to go without radar. Raymarine doesn’t make the old non digital raydomes anymore. They will service the old raydomes for $575. But it will take several weeks. The new digital Raydomes are not compatible with my RL70C chartplotter so I am considering buying the E7 and a new Digital Raydome. I would love to hear comments from anyone who has this setup. Specifically how it works with the old Seatalk 6000 plus autopilot, depth, wind, and speed instruments. Paul McManus Sea Sea Rider C380 #185 Port Orchard, WA Paul, I do not have the radar but I bought a new c125 this year. It’s the same family as the e7 just bigger and without

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Leaking Marelon Valves and Thru’Hulls

Just to share our experience on these; Shortly after purchasing our 380, I found the galley “thruhull” to be leaking near the base. A quick haul, yard replacement, and $1K later, I realized this might not have been so serious. The PO had serviced the valve and stripped some threads on some of the stainless screws that hold the body together. The thru hull was not leaking, the valve body was. We could have used the plug that comes in the handle to close off the outside opening (from the water), screwed off the body, and screwed on a new one. Lessons – ascertain what is leaking; in my view its very unlikely that its the thru hull. If you take apart a valve to service, be very careful when putting back together. This past winter I replaced the engine cooling water thru hull and valve – it had been

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Rebedding of Dead Lights

For those (like me) who didn’t know the term “dead light”, those are the pure plexiglass windows on the sides of our cabins, i.e. not the “port lights” which are the oval ports with aluminum frames… I asked for advice on rebedding these to eliminate a persistent leak. The following is the information provided: Tom, I purchased the 2 port side deadlights from Catalina. They suggested Dow Corning 795 in Black. Their price was over $20 per tube, I bought it at a supply house in Catonsville for under $15. I had an automotive glasser do mine, I wouldn’t recommend them. When you do them you can get some wood slats to wedge between the sheet tracks and the hand rail and put sponges under the slats to hold the deadlight tightly while curing. Blue painters tape also. Good luck, Skip C.S.Wilkins Assuming that you referring to one of the

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Modified Engine Blower Control

On my C387 #96, there is a blower switch on the engine control panel at the helm that has always baffled me. It simply gives you control over the blower when the engine is running but doesn’t allow you to control the blower when the engine is not running. Personally, I can’t see a reason why I would want it turned off at all when the engine is running. I would always want it on. Then again, the plastic cover on the switch is clouded over enough that you really can’t tell whether the switch is turned on or off so your only indicator is hearing it come on when the ignition switch is first turned on. I want the blower to always run when the ignition is on but also want the ability to turn it on independent of the ignition switch. When I arrive at an anchorage

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Salon cabinets

Some C380s have cabinets built into the salon. Most C387’s do have have these but have more portlights along the wall that makes such an installation more difficult.

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