Winch Cleaning

Discussion of solvents for cleaning winches: Good Video on stripping down a Lewmar winch.,.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqCunPhQHw4 I’ve disassembled my Lewmar¬ winch and was attempting to degrease¬ everything using mineral spirits. I didn’t have enough so I went to Lowes to buy more but I found out they no longer supply mineral spirits in my area due to new regulations. The salesman suggested acetone which is doing a very poor job. Any suggestions on a degreasing agent? Lewmar¬ folks recommend cleaning the winch parts in liquid paraffin which is nothing more than clear lamp oil.¬ I does a nice job of degreasing¬ without the drying effects of acetone and no more expensive.¬ I’ve been doing this for years. ¬ Don’t use grease on the pawls¬ or the pawl ratchet, use only light machine oil.¬ Grease in the pawls¬ will bind them up and they will stop working.¬ Lewmar¬ has instructions on their

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Starter Solenoid

Well all launched on lake Ontario even though we had strong winds. Minor problem at launch, starter solenoid decided to crap out, I managed to jump the starter solenoid connection and at least get over to the slip. Has anyone had success in purchasing starter solenoid without having to buy a new starter. I searched Torrenson¬ and local Westerbeke dealer in Ontario but they only list new starters at a small fortune. If I can’t find a solenoid the option is just sending starter to rebuilder for rebuild and new solenoid. If anyone has had success in finding a solenoid please let me know, greatly appreciated. Paul Hull 170 Bronte   Paul… Suggest checking connections. ¬ A bit of corrosion, especially at starter terminals, can produce that symptom, depending on your jumping technique. Warren Paul I was able to purchase a new solenoid from Stewart Marine (206) 789-4600 in

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Raymarine e95, e125, X10, Seatalk NG ,etc.

Our repair project following Hurricane Sandy has moved well into a major refit and refurbishment. We have just bought the Raymarine¬ e95 display and standard digital radar, and are waiting on the rebate of an i70 multifunction display. I’m finding the connection/hook-up directions to be fairly poor, but it might just be me. The question is whether or not the old autohelm, original with the boat, will connect and is even worth connecting? I traced the wiring around and can find no “Corepack”, which comes with the more recent vintage Raymarines (e.g.. X10). Any thoughts on the lifetime of these autohelms? The new units are around $3500 all in, which is a lot for our budget. Tom, Alchemy 1998 C380, #120 ¬ <hr /> Tom, I have an e125¬ and an X10 autohelm. The older pilots and ST60¬ instruments can be networked to the e series only through Seatalk¬ NG

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AC Condensator

Hello all, Has anyone installed a condensator on their AC unit. I have a 16000 Cruise Air with two handlers. The main AC is in the rear lazerette. The drain hose for the rear unit¬ empties into the bilge aft of the main bilge. Water stays in their always because the drain hole is higher than the forward bilge. I would like to get the water out the boat so it doesn’t sit in the bilge. Any thoughts? Thanks, Russell Catalina 380 1997 #20   I had these installed in my units back when I used a/c.¬ They worked great. http://www.mmair.com/marine_division/accessories/mermaid_condensator Chris s/v MoonSail 1993 CM38cc #26 www.MoonSail.com

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Access to Pump out hose just below deck plate

I need to replace my head storage tank pump out hose. I’m not quite sure how to get access to the connection below the deck plate. There is a small curved liner piece in this area. It looks like I might be able to remove this piece if I work its bedding loose, but I don’t want to attack it without some confirmation that I’m on the right path. Any advice? Thanks Mike (s/v Morning Glory) Mike, Using pictures from Bob Goldman on Xanadu, last winter I replaced all the¬ sanitary hoses “downstream” of the holding tank i.e. to the macerator¬ pump and to that pump out fitting. I used pvc in lieu of the flexible hoses. The change is spectacular¬ resulting in total elimination of any odor. To make that connection you are¬ asking about I cut the existing hose a few inches below the deck fitting within the

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Rebedding the Keel

As a result of Sandy, it looked as if our keel/hull joint might have cracked open slightly. I ground down to the joint, from about 1/4 inch above and to 1 inch below using a very fat 3M type abrasive wheel. It looked as if there was a hairline crack in the bedding compound from the rear to about 1/3 forward. Last weekend I undid and removed the 10 nuts inside – that took a 3/4 inch drive set which I have and a 5 foot cheater bar. Tuesday this past week, the yard used their travel lift to hoist the boat up about 6 inches. Nothing budged, although the crack opened up slightly. I spent the day chiseling out the bedding compound – its not 5200 but is either fiberglass resin or epoxy. I had cut a bunch of hard wood wedges and, starting at the back, pounded a

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