Switching to Golf Cart Batteries

[Editor: Much discussion on this topic. Here are a few pictures of such installations…] Batteries sit in a fiberglass box. Box usually has walls only and when fitted in place, they build bottom inside of it. I had to cut part of the floor above the box, between stern wall of the box and stairs. Floor can be cut and battery box can be extended to fit four 6V batteries. There is no need to change anything on floor boards. When you remove battery box lids with the attached floor boards, you will notice that floor under is not flat. Regards, Mario Here is a picture I found¬ on¬ internet. It is very much like mine. I can put in four¬ 6V batteries¬ from boat centerline toward starboard side. There is still space left on the starboard side for one more battery. I‚Äôve attached a picture of the 4 Trojan

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Wiring of Terminal Strip at Engine C380 Westerbeke

My terminal strip is not numbered so I call pin/ terminal #1 = green/ black wires (adjacent is heavy red wires). ¬ Color a/ color b denotes color on engine side / color on panel side. ( this is for Westerbekes; Yanmars should be the same functionally, but colors on engine side may be different. Westerbekes see P 48/49 of engine manual)   ¬ -12 v / ground. ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ Green/ black ¬ +12 v Battery ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ Red/red ¬ Temperature sender. ¬ Yellow / brown ¬ Tach sender. ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ Brown / grey ¬ Glow plugs. ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ Violet / white ¬ Not used. ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ Orange / not used (Oil pressure gauge option) ¬ Alt./ ignition. ¬ ¬ ¬ Red white / purple. (see term. 9) ¬ Starter. ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬

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Engine failure – mixing elbow

Hello all, we are new to the board and would like to share an experience from last week on the Pamlico sound in NC. ¬ We were motor sailing and suddenly the engine reduced rpm’s and then quit. ¬ It would not restart, did all the fuel things, filter(s) and the like with no luck. ¬ After a day and a half at the boatyard we learned that the¬ exhaust mixing elbow was totally occluded from carbon. ¬ The Yanmar Service tech told us “it’s a 5 year service item”. ¬ We have a Yanmar 3jh3e with 2700 hours on it, and we have owned this boat for 2 years. Next I would like some info on our 02 380, # 0365. ¬ Our motoring speed @ 2800 rpm is 5 to 5.5 kts. ¬ We are to haul soon and would like to check and may be just replace

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Leaking Forward Hatch Repair

I had a leak in my front hatch last year. Mine was leaking under the frame and not from the gasket. Luckily¬ the core¬ was dry since¬ it was dripping down between the frame and inside trim piece.¬ ¬ The PO has removed the frame and ¬ put some silicone between the trim piece and coring.¬ An extra 1hr¬ of work he could of sealed the core for good.¬ So I recommend coring out all around the hatch and not just the screw holes with epoxy or resin. I found this dremel¬ cutting tool very helpful. Run the shaft along the fiberglass using it as kind jig.¬ It will cut out about an 1/8″ just enough to seal the core. Taping a sheet of plastic on the inside will catch the coring and drips from the epoxy.¬ Also it would be a good time to paint the inside trim piece,

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Leaking Forward Hatch

We had troubling leaks with our forward hatch leaked as well.¬ Gaskets or bedding are generally the source.¬ After addressing the gasket issues, it still leaked, with water leaking out of the inner hatch trim strip.¬ I repeatedly tried Capt Tolley’s Creaping Crack Cure, as was suggested, but it didn’t work..¬ Finally I broke down and pulled the hatch.¬ I found that the screws Catalina used to install the hatch were too short, which caused quite a bit of flexing along the hinge line. The flexing was great enough to cause the fiberglass skin to de-laminate from the deck core. Catalina also didn’t seal the hatch mounting holes with epoxy to isolate the deck core from leaks, luckily the core was in good shape. ¬ I ended up drilling holes, injecting epoxy, and c-clamping the de-lamination to repair it.¬ Finally re-bedded the hatch using longer 1 /1/2″ screws and Sikaflex

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Access under the Anchor Locker

The attached picture shows one way to access the anchor well hose. I didn’t actually replace the hose because when I got in there I could tell that it wasn’t the culprit. I had the Admiral run the hose in the well while I felt for leaks at both ends of the hose. I don’t think the hose is reachable without an access hole. I could have replaced the hose through this access hole. The hole looks kind of raw in this picture but I finished it by putting a six inch deck plate in it and covering it with the teak plywood panel. Paul McManus Sea Sea Rider C380 #185

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