The Yanmar 3JH4E does not have glow plugs, but Yanmar instead offers an optional intake Air Heater to help with cold weather starting. The engine on our 387 does not have this optional heater, but I believe the blue “glow plug” wire from the start switch is run all the way through/to the engine wiring harness (the 3-conductor plug on the Yanmar harness), and from there on to the stbd side of the engine block itself.¬ Meaning, I think, that all of the wiring is in place so you could just drop in the optional intake Air Heater and plug it in if you were inclined to. Jeff Houston, TX C387 #90
The fuel gauge is basically a simple ammeter circuit, that is, the meter is measuring the current thru the fuel sender’s variable resistor ( floating resistive arm…). +12vdc is supplied to one side of the gauge/meter (from the ignition switch), the other side is carried, via a pink wire, to pin 6 of the 12 pin terminal strip within the engine control pod. ¬ From there it’s connected directly to the tanks variable resistor/arm via the center or main terminal at the tank ( fwd inboard part of tank). ¬ From there, current flows thru that var. resistor and is returned to -12vdc/ground. ¬ From the ground point on the tank, there should be a second wire which carries that ground to either the engine pod or main engine (don’t recall which). ¬ The engine & engine pod have a solid #10 ground wire between them. Diagnosis is probably easiest
I need to replace¬ a cockpit table leaf¬ brace on our 387,¬ as the cord broke.¬ Searched our group and found conversation on¬ replacement part¬ for 380.¬ Found it at ugly fish company which distributes for southco.com called a “click stay”¬ for $44.30 each.¬ ¬ Can anyone tell me if they used the same size/part on both 380 and 387?¬ ¬ Want to be sure to order the right part. and at this price don’t want to get it wrong. Natalie Speicher No Fear 387 hull #3 Thank you all for the information on the cockpit table leaf supports. ¬ Found them in three places.¬ Ugly fish: $44.30 ea. Catalina Yachts: $41.50 and Catalina Direct, part #Z2664 for $26.83. Will try the repair $1.00 fix first, but good to have a back up. Natalie Speicher S/V No Fear C387 #3 I’ve actually repaired the struts on Rhythm’s cockpit table.
I am considering changing from the present PSS shaft seal system to the Sure Seal. I am getting conflicting opinions regarding the SureSeal. On one hand there are those that claim that the SureSeal system is much more reliable and a change of seals is possible while the boat is on the water. On the other hand, there are those that claim that SureSeal may not be appropriate for 3 cylinder engines and below because of the¬ excessive vibration of these smaller engines. Any experience or opinion on this topic is very much appreciated. I.J. Perez S/V Windseeker II C387 #128 NJ
Expanding on earlier posts on the same topic, I am please to share some lessons learned from my recent challenges of increasing engine temperature and the decision to remove the heat exchanger for a flush. The engine manual calls this out as due every 4 years or 1000 hours so definetly a routine mainenance task. Following is a descriptive explanation of the process to both remove and reinstall the heat exchanger as follows: Drain the coolant using the drain cock located on the aft side of the heat exchanger housing. You will need plenty of dry rags and a container to collect the coolant ahead of disposal. Loosen the alternator adjustment bolts and remove the v belt allowing the alternator to drop away from the front of the heat exchanger. Remove the 2 hex key bolts holding the fwd heat exchanger cap in place. Tap the cap on the side