Advice on swing mooring challenges

Hi Skippers,

I recently relocated our 387 with a wing keep on to a swing mooring in an attempt to save on berthing fees which are expensive here in Aussie. The mooring is in a tidal inlet with around 3 meters of tidal rise / fall so we get anything up to 4-5 knots of flow in the middle hours of the tide.

My neighbors some of who me live aboard are telling me with wind opposing tide our 387 swings erratically, often with the mooring bouy jammed in against the hull with the boat opposing the tide due to wind. The other longer keeled boats in the anchorage don’t seem to have the same issues as the appear to react much slower to wind and the tide appears to have a good hold.

I am interested if anyone has expierince and any suggions on if the helm should be

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Catalina 387 Line Sizes

From the Catalina 387 manual, page 21:


Furling line recommendation from Schaefer Furler Manual:
2100 = 70′ 5/16″
3100 = 90′ 3/8″

Spin Halyard from Running Rigging Specifications of C380 Manual:
130′ Std Rig
136′ Tall rig

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air conditioning on the Catalina 387

I have 2 ac units on this Catalina 2008   16000 BTU under V Berth  and 7000 BTU in aft closet.   The AC Coil in the V Berth  that has been protected with a filter(always clean) has become totally degraded; when I take a vacuum and a brush to clean, it isn’t dirt that is coming off the fins, it is metal debris from same;  I can’t even imagine how the ac is even able to cool. Anyway, being that the unit is 9 years old, I don’t trust it and want to replace.  The problem unit is the 16000 BTU in the forward V Berth   The unit that is in there is a Marvair SeaMach; I can’t begin to figure out how the hell they got it in there or how to get it out and how I can install a new like and kind. Any suggestions from my fellow Catalina owners.   Thanks   Charlie Knupp  sailboat DAFFY  Fort Lauderdale FL

Replacement Anchor Light – LED

Had problem with my anchor light.  Here are a couple of suggestions…

From Bill Worsley:

From my experience the biggest cause of failure for an exterior LED bulb that has been used to replace incandescent is exposure to water.  That is what happened to my LED anchor light 9 years after installation.  The base of that LED bulb was not sealed thus allowing moisture to get into the chip.  I still replaced it with superbrightleds.com LED (BAU15S – CW18 – T) which now has a sealed base.  At $6.95 each, I got two.

The other recommendation and what I use as a spare or additional LED anchor light is from cruisingsolutions.com (Utility Anchor Light for $35) .  It also has a photocell to turn on at dusk and off at dawn.  Connect to a 12v socket in stern of boat and hang from backstay.
The cost of a new LED

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Raymarine S100 Autopilot Remote Controller

From Mark O. Flaherty, DIVERSION Catalina 380/296

Am installing Raymarine S100 Autopilot Remote Controller and would like lessons learned if anyone in group has already done so.  Trying to make best compromise of ease of installation and coverage. 

  1. Can the base station be “tucked” into the instrument pod?  Adequate coverage?
  2. Aft lazerette?
  3. Nav Station?
  4. Other of which I have not thought?

 

From Warren Elliott

I had no issue with base in aft lazarette. I tried there first (stb. Lazarette) because system computer was there making wiring super easy.
From Jeff:

Be careful when you are using it. When it’s battery runs low and the unit shuts down, it switches the autopilot to standby.

 

From Mike
’79 C380 ‘Debbia’
Racine, WI

If you are sailing solo and carry the remote on your person, the Autopilot switching to standby on signal loss is a good safety feature. Should you fall

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Rudder Post Screws

There are three screw holes in the lower rudder post bearing.  According to Warren Pandy at Catalina, these were originally to secure the lower bearing to the hull but for a number of years now they have not been used and are unnecessary.  The lower bearing needs to be secured to the boat using 3M 4200.

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PlasDeck

From Paul, Hull C380, #170

Plasdeck is similar in nature to Nuteak. It is coloured all the way through but the seams are all welded , not glued. Guy came and took all the templates, they are sent to a factory in Ohio where they make each panel. They are shipped here and installed as individual panels.

 

Chris Aslin from Aslin Boat Builders in Toronto did the work. It took him a good day to make all the templates and about 11/2 days to install. Prep from my side was make sure it was good and clean and dry as well as all dodger/bimini poles that mounted to the deck came off.
Taxes in it was $5000CAD.
It took about  5 weeks from when the templates were made till install. The templates are sent to the factory in Ohio and then the finished panels are delivered to the installer.

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NG2 Masthead Assembly

From Bill Worsley Southern Skies C-380 #302
My C-380 is hull # 302 and I have an Isomat NG-70 spar with an Isomat NG-2 masthead cover.  I think there have been several masts for the C-380, Jim’s being one of the original.  Based on hull numbers, I think we may have the same mast – many would say it is a Charleston spar, but actually Isomat design (see the discussion on the rigrite website about Charleston Spars).  If you go to rigrite.com website and follow this path, you will get to a diagram of the masthead assembly:
Spars\Isomat Spars\Mast Specs and Components\NG-70\Masthead Parts\NG2 Masthead Assembly
 
Note that the cover plate is held in place by two “feet” that slip into the top forward part of the mast body and is bolted down on the aft end by two hex head bolts.  This only gives you access to the sheaves.  All

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