Portlight Replacement

Port light Replacement
Don and Linda Rooker
May, 2007
Hull #: C380 #157

Don and Linda Rooker, who sail “Jolly Mon”, in the Pickwick Lake/ Tennessee River region of North East Mississippi, felt that the crazing on their original portlghts was too much and decided to go for stainless-steel framed units. So, thought I’d insert their photo here, as a different approach [See Photo]. As their new portlights, made by New Found Metal [.com], have tempered glass, no more crazing. Most of the fleet, including Admiral Jeanne and I, continue to shy away from glass on board. Perhaps a few have wine glasses carefully stowed?? But tempered glass is pretty strong.

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More on Portlight Leaks

More on Portlight Leaks
Richard Herbst
August, 2007
Hull #: C380 #93

Last month’s [May 07] article on repairing portlight leaks omitted one source of a leak that is very easy to fix. On my boat (C380, S/N 93), the 2-horizontal seams in the Lewmar portlight’s frame is a primary source of leakage and the fix is really simple. My boat had been in the Gulf area for many years with the result that sunlight beat these seams to death. To fix, just run a bead of sealant across each seam and the leak stops (see photo).

Note that the portlight frame is hollow, so after sealing the seams, you may have to take a brisk sail to heel and spill the residual water out of the already present holes in the lower part of the frame. Before starting, put a towel there to catch the water.[Suggest removing trim ring;

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Inexpensive SSB Antenna

Inexpensive SSB Antenna
Bob Bierly
August, 2007
Hull #: C380 #255

“I constructed a separate insulated antenna that runs from one of my my davit arms to the mast head using a spare halyard. I made this antenna from number 10 steel wire (from West ) and 2 porcelain insulators from a ham radio store. That proprietor recommended the longest possible wire as an antenna, which I have. I also avoided cutting the backstay and the expensive insulators for that purpose. Once the metal long wire is up you merely attach the insulated antenna lead  from the antenna tuner directly to the steel wire with a hose clamp or a copper u-bolt ( which I found in Home Depot). My total cost is maybe 20 bucks.” –Bob Bierly, C380 #255, “C’Mon Wind”

Bob’s antenna is certainly simple, and should perform well at least in some circumstances. However, as much of

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Engine’s Water-Injected Exhaust Elbow

Engine’s Water-Injected Exhaust Elbow
Warren Elliott
November, 2007
Hull #: C380 # 44

Cooling sea water flows through our engine’s heat exchanger, then through the anti-siphon valve discussed above and to the elbow fitting at the aft end of the exhaust manifold. Here the water is “injected” into the hot exhaust gases, where it cools them while transiting the exhaust system, ending up back in the sea.

This elbow fitting is therefore in a very harsh environment, suffering the rigors of both very hot gases and warm/ hot salt water. [Fresh water sailors have an advantage here.] So you can imagine that this part is likely to be on the earlier, rather than later, timescale for failure. This occurred to at least one captain, albeit in a benign fashion. Over a period of months, his engine gradually exhibited higher and higher operating temperatures. After checking all the likely sources of

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Electric Halyard Winch Conversion [C 387]

Electric Halyard Winch Conversion [C 387]
Dale Hartwig
August, 2007
Hull #: C387 #85

 Powering Up Footloose

Regardless of where we sail, how we sail, and with whom we choose to share our sailing, I suspect most of us spend time evaluating options to make our experiences easier, simpler, and safer. Bottom line for me is: anything I can do to increase my time on the water is a primary consideration – physical effort included. When we moved from our C320 to our C387, we chose the Forespar LeisureFurl mainsail boom furler option. This article is not about our “learning” experiences with the boom furler but about our decision to replace the standard manual halyard winch with a powered winch. In discussions with Forespar, while “Footloose” was in production, we understood a powered winch was recommended, to make raising the big main a snap. However, we had missed the opportunity

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Companionway Slider Replacement

Companionway Slider Replacement
Michael Barry

May, 2007 Hull #: C380 #53

Drama Queen, C380 hull #53, came with a gray, “full-size” Plexiglas companionway sliding hatch, as did all early 380s. After a few years, our slider needed replacing due to the appearance of some cracks. I spent a great deal of time shopping plastic supply companies to have a replacement made, but I had no luck. I then contacted Catalina and ordered a new slider [about $250].

The newer sliders are made of fiberglass with a small Plexiglas insert. I was told that the new slider would fit the older boats. Well, it sort of fits. [Note- the original allplexiglass design had a tendency to sag or warp, especially in southern heat, thus the new design– Warren]

To replace the sliding hatch, first I removed the screws that secure the large hatch cover, then slid the cover out

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Companionway Doors

Companionway Doors
Warren Elliott

November, 2007 Hull #: C380 #44

As many of our stalwart Sailnet chat group members will recall, a few months ago we got together a group buy of doors for our boat’s companionway. These particular units are made by Zarcor [.com], a frequent Mainsheet advertiser. They are fabricated out of starboard, a white plastic. While the well-known alternative doors are made from teak [Glebe Creek, sold by Cruising Concepts, also a Mainsheet advertiser] and look very nice, I, and presumably all of our group buyers, do not want to deal with the upkeep required by their wood construction.

So, we purchased and installed the Zarcor version, which have been in place now about a month. I thought some readers would be interested in how the installed doors look on a C380, [specifically mine], which you can see in the two accompanying photos.

Installation is quite simple.

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