Water Heater Upgrade
From January 99 Mainsheet
2/1/1999
An upgrade is available from Westerbeke to improve engine-sourced hot water.
This moves the hose connections for the hot water heater from the original port side of the engine to a set of connections at the water pump and thermostat. A new fitting is required for the thermostat housing tap. The water pump housing has an extra tap that can be used. Samantha (#31) has been configured in this manner and the hot water whilst cruising has been very nice indeed.
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As nice as it is to have dome lights that can be switched to red for improved night vision, the present system could be improved for serious cruisers. How many times have you or crew accidentally switched a light to the white side? I took a page out of the Catalina 42 book by adding a 42-style red cabin sole-level light to the starboard side of the galley cabinet. This provides an excellent way to always be ensured of shining red light onto the companion way and the immediate area, essential for proper nighttime safety. Dave Peffer, hull #20, Spindrift, has also added a night light just above and next to the commode, on the side of the sink cabinet.
This permits crew to go below and take care of business without turning on any lights, at all. These lights can be
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We have all seen this white plastic material being used throughout the marine industry. It forms the aft perch seats of our own 380’s. Forrest and Susie Lott have put the material to excellent use in several projects on their Andiamo. Forrest mentioned that the material is very easy to work with using normal woodworking tools. He discovered that it does not glue well, so he made up all joints with countersunk screws.
First, they increased galley surface space immensely by adding stove and sink covers. The sink board has been built in two pieces so that they can work on one part and still access the sink.
Their next project was a motor mount for the outboard. It needed to be tall enough to keep the foot of the motor from striking the deck when hung on the
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I spoke with Jerry Douglas about this long suffering problem. According to Jerry, all tanks up to boat 177 were 27.5 gallons as determined by outside measurement allowing for wall thickness, etc. Boat 178 will have a 34.3 gallon tank. The new tank can be retrofitted via a drop in; ie, no fiberglass work. It costs $322.35 FOB factory.
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Filter Pressure Drop Gauge
From January 99 Mainsheet
2/1/1999
This might be a good time to bring up the issue of fuel filters. Either we clean them regularly (and most of us probably do not) or they slowly clog up and interfere with proper flow to the engine, maybe when the engine is most needed! It would take only one bad batch of fuel to clog the filter.
Consider adding a fuel suction meter in the line between tank and fuel pump. This meter will give you an absolute indication of the pump suction required to bring fuel from the tank. Mark the pressure with a clean filter and, when it increases, check the filter. The cost of installation and parts was about $120.00. It can be tee’d into the fuel line anywhere and does not require fuel system bleeding. Not too bad for peace of mind whilst at sea.
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One of the problems with large volume cabins is that they can be somewhat awkward in a seaway. What do you hold onto? We have added several teak handles throughout the cabin to match what Catalina had originally installed. This included an additional handle at the companionway port side and at the main cabin-forward cabin door.
A bigger issue is helping people pass between the saloon and the companionway in a wild seaway. We installed a stainless 1-inch diameter pole between the coachroof and the galley countertop. This gives the crew an obvious place to grab when “falling down” the companionway in a blow.
Without it, they may go rolling through the cabin! Of course, they should always go up and down this ladder facing aft, but…
In order to remain clear of the companionway slide above the galley, the pole
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Keeping the anchor locker closed, whether to prevent it from opening in a heavy sea or to keep thieves out of it, requires some kind of lock. One solution is a lockable hasp on deck, but a lock can be cut and it is a toe-banger. Some of us have taken an inside approach. It is quite practical to attach a ¼ inch line to the inside of the hatch (where the holding open cable is mounted) and run the line to a cleat in the v-berth. The photo shows the internal installation, using a stainless jam cleat. It is important that the hole be positioned just under its attachment to the locker lid where the line can be pulled the tightest. There must be no slack. I used a surface-mounted turning block in the locker at the exiting hole to
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