First, I have to admit that I stole the whole idea from my good friend Mike Gilmore, Catalina 380 owner, who created somewhat the same thing a few years ago.
Prior to this project, I had a captain’s chair behind the helm that was 11 years old and falling apart. It was a good design by a company that long since went out of business. It clamped to the stern rails and if I wanted to get to the swim platform, I had to either climb over the rails or remove the whole thing. Though I would typically do this at anchor, doing this just to get to the davits or something else was simply impractical.
The solution was to through bolt a pedestal to the transom insert, mount a fancy contraption to the top of the pedestal so it would
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Several captains have experienced the handles on the cabin roof hatches break off. Several have attempted to epoxy them back in place but over a short time they break off again.
Lewmar has a kit to replace these though West Marine couldn’t find the correct one. The correct part number with Lewmar is 360255990. In this approach, you drill a hole through the lens and create a mechanical rather than glue connection for the new handle. This seems to be the best approach. Be sure it looks like what you have to make sure it is correct. It will have a “button” on top of the hatch bolted to the handle below.
Had problem with my anchor light. Here are a couple of suggestions…
From Bill Worsley:
From my experience the biggest cause of failure for an exterior LED bulb that has been used to replace incandescent is exposure to water. That is what happened to my LED anchor light 9 years after installation. The base of that LED bulb was not sealed thus allowing moisture to get into the chip. I still replaced it with superbrightleds.com LED (BAU15S – CW18 – T) which now has a sealed base. At $6.95 each, I got two.
The other recommendation and what I use as a spare or additional LED anchor light is from cruisingsolutions.com (Utility Anchor Light for $35) . It also has a photocell to turn on at dusk and off at dawn. Connect to a 12v socket in stern of boat and hang from backstay.
The cost of a new LED
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Am installing Raymarine S100 Autopilot Remote Controller and would like lessons learned if anyone in group has already done so. Trying to make best compromise of ease of installation and coverage.
Can the base station be “tucked” into the instrument pod? Adequate coverage?
Aft lazerette?
Nav Station?
Other of which I have not thought?
From Warren Elliott
I had no issue with base in aft lazarette. I tried there first (stb. Lazarette) because system computer was there making wiring super easy.
From Jeff:
Be careful when you are using it. When it’s battery runs low and the unit shuts down, it switches the autopilot to standby.
From Mike ’79 C380 ‘Debbia’ Racine, WI
If you are sailing solo and carry the remote on your person, the Autopilot switching to standby on signal loss is a good safety feature. Should you fall
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There are three screw holes in the lower rudder post bearing. According to Warren Pandy at Catalina, these were originally to secure the lower bearing to the hull but for a number of years now they have not been used and are unnecessary. The lower bearing needs to be secured to the boat using 3M 4200.
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Plasdeck is similar in nature to Nuteak. It is coloured all the way through but the seams are all welded , not glued. Guy came and took all the templates, they are sent to a factory in Ohio where they make each panel. They are shipped here and installed as individual panels.
Chris Aslin from Aslin Boat Builders in Toronto did the work. It took him a good day to make all the templates and about 11/2 days to install. Prep from my side was make sure it was good and clean and dry as well as all dodger/bimini poles that mounted to the deck came off.
Taxes in it was $5000CAD.
It took about 5 weeks from when the templates were made till install. The templates are sent to the factory in Ohio and then the finished panels are delivered to the installer.
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