Dock Side Water Connection
Dave Peffer
7/1/1998
Hull #: 20
A few weeks ago we were asked by the Coast Guard to display a life jacket for each passenger, requiring us to take one of the PFD bags out of the lazarette. The gal who put it back in didn’t see that sneaky blue tube, and hung up the bag on it, then pushed extra hard. Result: the right-angle fitting from the regulator cracked. When we fired up the fresh water to do dishes the pump ran on and on, but we had no pressure. It took awhile to find this blasted leak!
I have temporarily plugged the end of the tube after removing the fittings, but have to replace the thing if I ever want to use the dockside connection for water. Those who have not (yet) broken it can avoid the problem by disconnecting the blue tube, turning
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I finally got my problem solved. When we ordered our new C380, we ordered it with a Garmin 215 GPS with Differential built in. Well, the GPS worked fine but no differential. The dealer and the West Marine rep tried everything but still no workie. (I forgot to tell you I also had a inverter installed as well) By luck the rigger who was working on my boat turned off the inverter and lo and behold the differential started to work. So, after rewiring, trying a new GPS and new antennas, it was just interference from the inverter. So, I do not use the inverter when under way.
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Dock Line Storage
Jim Jaeschke
5/1/1998
Hull #: 73
We made a locker for storing dock lines by removing the starboard holder for the spare propane tank. This opened up a large spot for dock lines in the unusable spot underneath the deck. If you do this, it is important to seal this area off since water can pour into the boat. We did this by fiber glassing in plywood walls to totally seal off the interior of the boat. The drain hose used for the spare propane tank locker was then fitted to this new compartment.
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Mast and Shroud Grounding
Jim Jaeschke 9/1/1998
Hull #: 73
For those of you who did not order the bonding package, here is one idea as to a way to ground the base of the mast and the shroud wires to the keel. There is of course no method in which protection from lightning can be guaranteed. Indeed, there is much debate as to the way that will provide the most protection.
On Electra, we decided to ground (connect) as much of the metal in the boat as possible to the keel. On the lower part of the keel, I have mounted, drilled and tapped, four small Dyna-Plates to make as good an electrical connection to the water as possible. In fresh water, this connection to the water is the weakest link in the protection system. Spread the Dyna-Plates out on the keel on both sides so that the electricity
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Having the GPS mounted on the pedestal is convenient, especially if you have a 12V outlet to power it so you can keep the light on at night. There is not an outlet provided, so I added one. Using a Marinco 12VRC outlet with a rubber cover and a good seal, I placed it on the lower port quadrant on the side of the engine instrument pod, where it would be angled downward to prevent water running down into the barrel of the outlet or around the edge, should the seal fail. Be sure to check for interference with instruments inside the pod before drilling. Inside the pod is a connector block, and I was able to add the wires to appropriate slots on the block without crowding. Caution: the wiring is not heavy enough to support using the outlet for
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Anchor Chain Specifications
Dave Peffer
8/1/1998
Hull #: 20
The Maxwell windlass manual calls for using 5/16″ short -link chain. They have kindly clarified this, and recommend A.C.C.O. 5/16″ high test chain spliced to 5/8″ 3-strand or multi-plait nylon anchor line. If you want to use the windlass ability to handle both line and chain on the gypsy, a short, tapered splice is required on multi-plait and a full three-part splice (all three strands going through the chain link) is recommended for three-strand. You may get more information or order pre-spliced chain-rode combinations from Maxwell: 1610 Babcock St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627, phone 714-631-2634.
Please note that 5/16″ proof-coil chain, the kind most commonly available at boating stores, slips on the Maxwell gypsy and is VERY DANGEROUS to use. 5/16″ BBB chain fits the gypsy perfectly, but it is not as strong as the chain recommended by Maxwell.
Whether you
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We all have automatic bilge pumps, but how many times have we actually operated our manual pumps? The location of the pump handle is critical, especially if the crew must pump for extended periods. This operation should have a minimal impact on the helm. And the pump itself was quite an obstacle to entrance into the port lazarette. The solution was to relocate the pump to an area immediately aft of the port propane locker. It is a squeeze, but it fits in an area not otherwise useable. One of the existing hoses had to be replaced. The old pump opening in the cockpit was filled with the piece removed from the new position, glassed in and properly finished by a glass expert. One could never see the original installation! The result is much easier lazarette access, and the operating position
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After good meals, a key factor in crew comfort is adequate cabin heat. What a treat a warm cabin is after a cold watch…and how nice it is to be able to dry clothes at sea! We have had experience with diesel heaters before in our Catalina 42 and friends’ boats. They are very economical to run (about 0.5 liters per hour), are quiet/safe in operation, and offer loads of nice hot air.
An Eberspacher Model D3LC was chosen for its heat output and reputation for quality. They are readily available in the USA through selected dealers.
This model was designed for a slightly smaller boat, but installation space and other factors must be considered. Finding a way to mount the heater, locate the exhaust, and run the heat output required careful planning. After much thought, we settled on mounting the main
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The anchor locker provides no place to install a chain lock, which is required to keep the anchor locked on the roller underway. I made one up as follows: a short length of 3/16″ stainless wire (length depends on the length of your anchor stock) with a lifeline pelican hook (West Marine model #543132, which adjusts in length) swaged on one end, a stainless thimble nice-pressed on the other. A galvanized shackle attaches this to the bitter-end padeye in the anchor locker. The pelican hook goes through a chain link as close as possible to the anchor, and the adjustment on the hook allows this to be snug. The anchor is not going to fall overboard. This can also be used to snub the chain and allow you to transition the chain to the gypsy while raising the anchor if you do
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