I could not access the broken (inside) piece of the forward water vent earlier this year. I ended up with buying a 10” inspection port; carefully measured out the area for the port on the starboard side of the anchor locker; used a multifunction oscillating power tool with narrow cutting blade to cut the hole…leaving room to finish same with the sanding tool. I was able to access and replace the vent (ordered from Defender). Hope this helps!
from Jim, C380 #14
On my boat the old vent basically disintegrated and the outside portion fell off. From the V-berth I was able to reach up alongside the anchor locker and grab the vent hose and pull the remnants out and back where I could work on it. I then removed the old fitting, added an additional length of hose with a barbed coupling
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I am in the process of replacing the forward water tank vent in my 200 Catalina 380…After some research, including input/advice from the group; I did the following:
Installed a 10 “ circular inspection port on the starboard side of the anchor locker;
Replaced broken vent with a new perko 5/8” vent with 90 degree bend (where vent pipe attached to vent hose).
I looked into a plastic forespar vent but they did not come with a bend on the inside of the hull…I was concerned abut a kink in the water tank vent hose after connecting with the vent. The perko vent appeared to be an exact replacement for the broken vent.
Several captains have suggested the following sources for replacements of the stainless caps to the various tanks. Most of the sources below require you to buy the whole fitting. Defender sells just the cap. To me, the chains are dangerous and just beg to have the cap go over the side. JMO.
This source sells just the cap without the rest of the unit:
Our water tanks started to leak when over filling. Instead of the water flowing out of the hose that should ventilate the tanks it pushes out of the lid. We also noticed that there is a vacuum in the tanks after use. The hoses are free, without kinks and there is no water standing in them which would prevent air to flow through them. Somebody suggested to clean or even remove the little screen at the end of the vent. That seems like a good idea but I can’t figure out how to get to that screen. From the inside I can only see the fitting that connects the hose to the outside and from the outside there is that little vent cover which I can’t remove.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Sonja
S/V Moondance
C380 #366
Sonja,
I’ve been working on these very problems this week aboard Sea
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I found a solution for the slow head sink drain that many of us have complained about. I installed a 3/4″ 90 degree barbed fitting directly below the sink drain tailpiece. I then connected a piece of hose, curving in the longest arc I could fit in the available space, between the fitting and the thru-hull. This curve provides an escape for the air bubble that used to become trapped when the hose was vertical. Just make sure the hose is angled downward from the start or you could create another opportunity for an air bubble. Now the sink drains very nicely even when I’m using high pressure city water.
Jeff
C387 #145
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I’m heading up to the boat tomorrow to knock out some projects before going sailing we have friends join us for Labor day weekend. My top priority is to replace the 12 year old hot water heater, that has sprung a leak. I did thoroughly check for leaks at connections and pretty confident it’s time to replace it.
I’ve purchased a Quick Nautic B3 3012SL, 1200 Watt, 8 gallon stainless steel tank boiler to replace the Seaward F1100 with it’s 11 gallon aluminum tank. I found the following comment on another blog which really resonated with me, since I also replace the seaward boiler on our Catalina 30 after it started leaking as well.
“Atwood, Force Ten (Kuumha) & Seaward’s – These square water heaters look to be all made by the same company and re-badged. They all feature a stainless steel JACKET but an ALUMINUM tank! Buyer beware!”
“At
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I installed a ShurFlo Smartsensor 5.7 a few years ago. It is a variable speed pump, runs very quiet, and gives a lot of pressure. No problem with the fittings. Never had a leak with the 60 lb pressure the pump delivers. Only problem is getting used to the idea that a lot of water is going to come out when you open the faucet. Takes some getting used to or you will waste a lot of water. I installed it to eliminate the noisy water pump on an electric head.
I found the whole mixing body for $54 at Heater Craft http://www.heatercraft.com/ . They also have replacement hoses and heads for $41. Look in Marine, Parts. My borther-in-law prefers a standard sink sprayer for his camper shower. It is drip-free when not in use, but I don’t like the in-ability to have it running hands-free for hair rinsing. It depends on your preference.
I replaced my shower hose last year with a standard one from HD. I they also have shower heads with shut-offs.
Dan Ross
Zephyr #303
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The list below provides links to owner websites and their descriptions of improvements they have made to various aspects of the Catalina 380 series. I include them in this post so that they will be available to the search routines of this site.
These are a couple ideas from Bob Bierly who captains CMON WIND, C380 #255 out of Reedville, VA.
Forward Shore Power Inlet
All C380’s came with a 120 volt shore power inlet, usually mounted on the transom on the starboard side. This is not a convenient place to run dock power to when traveling, particularly if you prefer to dock bow first into a slip. To simplify this, I installed a 30 amp shore power inlet in the anchor locker facing forward in the vertical fiberglass face under the windlass controls. Photo #1 shows the location.
Running the #10 by 3-wire 120v cable back to the electrical panel was simple because that area behind the wooden panel at the forward end of the vee berth is directly open to the molded chase along both sides of the boat. Just run the new cable along the starboard
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