I recently relocated our 387 with a wing keep on to a swing mooring in an attempt to save on berthing fees which are expensive here in Aussie. The mooring is in a tidal inlet with around 3 meters of tidal rise / fall so we get anything up to 4-5 knots of flow in the middle hours of the tide.
My neighbors some of who me live aboard are telling me with wind opposing tide our 387 swings erratically, often with the mooring bouy jammed in against the hull with the boat opposing the tide due to wind. The other longer keeled boats in the anchorage don’t seem to have the same issues as the appear to react much slower to wind and the tide appears to have a good hold.
I am interested if anyone has expierince and any suggions on if the helm should be
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Expanding on earlier posts on the same topic, I am please to share some lessons learned from my recent challenges of increasing engine temperature and the decision to remove the heat exchanger for a flush. The engine manual calls this out as due every 4 years or 1000 hours so definetly a routine mainenance task.
Following is a descriptive explanation of the process to both remove and reinstall the heat exchanger as follows:
Drain the coolant using the drain cock located on the aft side of the heat exchanger housing. You will need plenty of dry rags and a container to collect the coolant ahead of disposal.
Loosen the alternator adjustment bolts and remove the v belt allowing the alternator to drop away from the front of the heat exchanger.
Remove the 2 hex key bolts holding the fwd heat exchanger cap in place.
Tap the cap on the side
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My 2006, 387 hull #106 has developed. a concerning problem with the cast alloy sparcraft mast step secures the base of the mast to the deck. The mast step is secured to the deck via 4 corner bolts and in my case the casting has fractured in 2 of the corners so now only secured via 2 bolts with the remainder no longer effective.
After sourcing the replacement part #FM-580 from Sparcraft France, next steps were to secure a rigger to undertake the work and prepare for the day to ensure the riggers costs were minimised. In our case we elected to jack the mast manually to avoid significant cost blowouts the use of a crane can trigger.
Preparation tasks:
Source some 2 mm high-density polyethylene plastic sheet, trace a template of the mast step with a marker, cutting this using scissors seemed to work best, this is required to
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