Category Archives: Electronics

Anemometer (Wind Instrument) Repair – Discussion

Yesterday I took a new wind vane and anemometer up the mast (the plastic wind vane is broken). The yard had gotten replacements that looked like exact duplicates from the deck. It turns out that the old instruments (ST60) are attached with a tiny Alan screw on the side whereas the new ones have a small screw in the middle. Upon removing the wind vane we found only a solid stud with an indent for the Allan screw. There was no hole in the center of the stud that would accept the screw.

Has anyone replaced these components, and do you know if the old type with the Allan screw are available? I will head over to the yard later today but it would be nice to be armed with more information. The manual on the Tech CD doesn’t give any part numbers for the wind vane.

Thanks,

Craig Spear

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Replacement Fuel Tank Sender

The replacement sender unit from Ezell is a totally improved design with a rigid ss vertical bar that a magnetic or something floats up and down on. Unlike the current unit with the resistive electronics in the fuel tank, everything is now external to the fuel tank. Much better design, and for a mere $29 well worth the upgrade. The current unit is a flimsy float hinged on a dangling peice of thick wire that connects to a peice of plastic that changes resistance based on how the flimsy wire happens to be dangling. Not too impressive in my fuel tank. I would replace even if its working!

Ezell is at (850) 578-2558, assuming they are the manufacturers of your fuel tank. I have the 26 gal tank, newer boats #179 on have the 34 gal tank. My part number  was WEMA-11 Sending Unit (C380- 26 gal). It is a

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DC power drop?

I’m sure many know this trick and issue but the boat next to mine didn’t so I thought I would post it.

The symptom started with their Xantrex Inverter having trouble starting.  It would simply shut down as soon as it looked like it was beginning to start.  The battery monitor on the panel really showed the problem – a DC voltage of 12.2 volts on fully charged batteries – not enough for the Xantrex to work.  Though the problem was first recognized as the Xantrex not working, there would ultimately be other problems showing up as well with electronics not working or the engine not starting.

Using a digital volt meter, I could show him that the voltage from the battery terminals was 12.9 volts simply by putting the red lead on the positive terminal and the black on the negative terminal.  What was not obvious to the captain

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Tank Monitor Issue – Snake River Ultra 8

I have the Snake River Ultra 8 Tank Monitor on my C387 #96 and finally after a few years of messing with it finally figured it all out.  Originally, the installer wired the blue and red wires backwards on all tanks.  (Got that figured out year one and fixed.)  Even then the waste tank monitor did not function.  That became this year’s project.

What I discovered was this.  The holding tank has two strips painted down the side that are supposed to eliminate the need for the foil strips that are used on the other tanks.  Onto this was attached the copper foil patches wired to the sensor which was wired to the control head.  At least on my holding tank, there was no electrical connection between the copper patches and the conductive strips on the tank.  The symptom of this was that the reading was always empty until the

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Diagnosing Fuel Guage Problems

From a post on the C-320 list a few years ago on this very problem:

Well this has turned into an interesting project. For those late to the telling, my fuel guage is reading ‘Full’ all of the time, so I replaced my float unit in  the tank and that didn’t cure the problem.

With no input from the list on my query as to whether there was any advice other than ‘replace the guage’, I turned to Catalina to order a new guage. They promptly referred me to Seaward where I wound up with Lonnie (562-699-7997 ext. 213). He was extremely helpful to me and when I expressed my intention of posting this report to this list, he volunteered that I should provide his contact information in the event anyone had further questions. They are very proud of their products at Seaward and clearly dedicated to customer service.

It

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Bow Running Light Repair

Hello all,
My port light was not working after a long trip. I decided to replace both bow lights, port and starboard. The starboard side works fine, but the port does not. I tested with a multi-meter and it only reads 10volts. I checked under the v-berth and see only 2 wires going forward. I guess this is for both lights. Does anyone know where these wires are connnected at? There is no access to these wires without pulling the bow pulpit. Do the screws for the pulpit go only in to glass, or is there a nut beneath?

Thanks,
Russell C380 #20

 


Hi Russell,

I replaced my bow lights with sealed Hella Led units last year. I wanted to maintain the continuous integrity of the wire on these lights so I did pull the pulpit. My bow pulpit has machine screws that thread into an aluminum plate embedded

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Tachometer Spec and Installation

IIIElectrical Praducts

Manufactured by:
Teleflex inc. (USA)
6980 Professional Pkwy East
Sarasota, FL 34240-8414
Phone (941) 907-1000
FAX £b41) 907-1020

 

TACHOMETER, TACH/HOURMETER INSTRUCTIONS DIESEL ALTERNATOR TYPE

CAUTION

READ AND FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFUllY BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH INSTALLATION. 00 NOT DEVIATE FROM WIRING INSTRUCTIONS. INCORRECT WIRING COULD CAUSE ELECTRICAL SHORT AND POSSIBLE FIRE. AlWAYS DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE MAKING ANY ELECTRICAL  CONNECTIONS.

NOTE: VARIOUS STANDARD MAKING ORGANIZATIONS HAVE ESTABLISHED RULES FOR WIRING. THOSE APPLICABLE TO YOUR SITUATION SHOULD BE FOLLOWED.

THIS TACHOMETER IS DESIGNED TO OPERATE ONLY IN 12 VOLT NEGATIVE GROUND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS. THE ALTERNATOR MUST BE EQUIPPED WITH A TERMINAL MARKED W, ‘AC’ OR’ R’.

Certain alternator manufacturers, such as Motorola, can supply an add-on adapter if such a terminal is not present.

Alternator repair shops may also be able to provide a tachometer output from the

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Contact Info for Seward Products (guages and switches)

Seward Products was sold but the electric panels, harnesses, and parts (gages, switches, etc.) were not purchased by Whale.  Instead, Dennis Igarashi, previously with Seaward has setup his own business in the factory in Whittier, CA.  He builds the panels and harnesses for Catalina, and makes replacement panels for older Catalina boat owners with an occasional custom panel for some Catalina boat owners.  He also carries most of the replacement parts for them as well.  

He has proved to be very helpful to us in the past so if you need replacement parts or even a new custom panel, give him a call:

Address is 3721 Capitol Avenue Whittier, CA 90601 Office phone number is (562)699-7997 x.210 Cell number is (626)374-6422 He is usually in the office Monday thru Thursday…

His email address:

digarashi@earthlink.net

(Reprinted from the C320 site)

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Checking Battery Cable Integrity

The following comes from Warren:

To check condition of any moderate-to-high current leads/connections, I like the measure-voltage-drop method. Eg: at battery terminal[s], put one vm lead on battery terminal itself & other lead on wire or connecting [crimped?] lug; do this while heavy charge/current is flowing.  Any more than maybe 0.1 volt = time to fix/clean/tighten.

Can do same type of test over entire cable as long as you can rig a long [thin ok] voltmeter lead to charger, but you’d need to check allowable drop [maybe 3%?] to know what is acceptable.

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Paddlewheel on Speed Transducer – Discussion

New boat to us, and previous owner did not have the knotmeter installed in hull fitting, just the plug was installed. Boat is still on the hard, and bottom of plug has bottom paint on it, which led us to believe that the knotmeter was not working.

Was able to get someone to watch meter while I turned the paddlewheel. Meter is working, but paddlewheel is binding, and I doubt if it would turn at all at very low speed.
Any work that has to be done on the sender unit is highly restricted because of the length of free cable and it’s position in the forward cabin.

Two questions;

1. Has anyone ever cut the cable and installed male and female plugs in order to remove sender from boat and work on it

2. Before I attempt to remove the pin, and ream out hole in the paddlewheel with

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