Category Archives: Repair/Replace/Maintain

2007, Mainsheet, Repair/Replace/Maintain, Rig

Baby Stay on Early C387’s

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Baby Stay on Early C387’s
Warren Elliott

Feb, 2007 Hull #: 44

 For C387 captains with the baby-stay configuration [hulls #1-60+], a few of you have reported, on our Sailnet email discussion group, a bit of damage to the baby-stay tie points in the forward cabin. These have been- or are in process of- repair. Please note that various conditions can put excessive strain along the baby stay, just as they can on any stay or shroud.

I suggest checking the at-rest rig tensions, especially on both the baby stay and forestay; over tensioning the former and under tensioning the latter can be problematic. A “Loos” gauge or equivalent may help you get the best set-up. The forestay should be moderately tight; some riggers suggest the tension be set as tight as 10% of breaking strength, which is about 1000 lbs. If a back-stay tensioner is installed, know your stay

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2007, Customizations, Electronics, Mainsheet, Repair/Replace/Maintain

SSB Radio Installation

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SSB Radio Installation
Steve Dublin
August, 2007
Hull #: C380 #84

Editor’s Introduction– As I spent many of my younger years as an active radio amateur [ham] and virtually all of my work life in antenna & microwave engineering, I feel some degree of justification for the comments you’ll see sprinkled throughout the article below [apologies to author: Steve Dublin]; I hope they’re helpful– that’s the intent!

One general comment by way of clarifying some terms. The two popular versions of transceivers used by sailors are “Marine” and “Ham” types; they are both capable of SSB transmissions. Their functional distinction is principally that of frequency of operation. Marine SSB units are limited to certain frequencies as dictated by the FCC.

Ham units were limited to other frequencies, called Ham bands, but newer Ham transceivers are capable of operation on both marine and Ham frequencies, so there’s a distinct advantage for

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2007, Engine, Mainsheet, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Test Your Engine’s Health

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Test Your Engine’s Health
Warren Elliott

Feb, 2007 Hull #: 44

Although we are sailors at heart, and hopefully by practice, we do need to call on our auxiliary engines regularly. With some luck, it’s only off and on the dock, or in and out of the harbor, but sometimes our “iron genny” will be cranking away for hours at a time. Whatever the modes of operation, there sometimes appears a cloud of doubt: will she start ok?…or how long can the engine keep going like this?

To bring the sunshine–and dispel any clouds–there are at least two general approaches, [maybe three if you include Happy Hours]: maintenance and testing. Most of us are patently familiar with the former: change oil regularly [about 100 hours], keep cooling system in good shape [strainer, impeller, heat exchanger on the raw water side, antifreeze/rust inhibitor for the fresh water system [use the fairly

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2007, Customizations, Mainsheet, Port Lights, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Portlights- Resealing & Reinstalling

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Portlights- Resealing & Reinstalling
Rick Ranno
May, 2007
Hull #: C-380 # 297

After a few years with my C380 [#297], the portlights developed some water leaks. Most were not obvious as to cause. So, after deciding to “dig in”, the first thing I did was to determine that the portlight was leaking and that a dirty or bad window gasket was not the cause. To do this, I removed the plastic trim rings with a screwdriver and applied some powder around the suspected areas. After several days including some rain, drip lines in the powder made it obvious that most leaks were entering via the window-tohull seal or, in this case, lack of seal. The best, long-term way to beat this one is complete portlight removal and re-installation.

First, with the trim ring removed, remove the 10/32 Philips mounting screws. Use a heat gun to help loosen the seal

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2007, Customizations, Mainsheet, Port Lights, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Portlight Replacement

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Port light Replacement
Don and Linda Rooker
May, 2007
Hull #: C380 #157

Don and Linda Rooker, who sail “Jolly Mon”, in the Pickwick Lake/ Tennessee River region of North East Mississippi, felt that the crazing on their original portlghts was too much and decided to go for stainless-steel framed units. So, thought I’d insert their photo here, as a different approach [See Photo]. As their new portlights, made by New Found Metal [.com], have tempered glass, no more crazing. Most of the fleet, including Admiral Jeanne and I, continue to shy away from glass on board. Perhaps a few have wine glasses carefully stowed?? But tempered glass is pretty strong.

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2006, Customizations, Fridge, Fridge, Mainsheet, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Refrigerator Upgrade

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Refrigerator Upgrade
Bob Swanson

March, 2006 Hull #: 349

Bob and Janet Swanson onboard English Rose, C 380 #349, came up with a simple solution to an irksome problem. The refrigerator on most of our boats have a removable shelf near the bottom [unlike my older horizontal freezer version], with space for sodas, etc. underneath. Below-shelf access is troublesome at best, requiring removal of just about everything sitting on top of it.

Their solution, as shown in the photo: cut off the front part of the shelf [about 1/3], and reinstall it as a two-piece shelf. Removing only the front part of the shelf [requiring removing much less of the items stored above] allows reasonable access to all items below.

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2006, Customizations, Mainsheet, Repair/Replace/Maintain, Screens

More on Hatch Screen Hinges

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More on Hatch Screen Hinges
Bob Bierly

February, 2006 Hull #: 255

 Faithful readers of this column will recall the November 2004 issue wherein I extol the virtues of always-installed hatch screens. This marvelous condition excites a euphoric state wherein captain and crew find they no longer need to scrounge precious storage areas for their hatch screens, no more will they suffer skinned knuckles or stubbed toes while trying to unearth the very same screens from their forgotten, illgained resting places. Our boating stalwarts can dismiss ugly memories of installing their screens a thousand times, most requiring some awkward twist or arch of the back, eliciting visions of endless therapy, and they can reject head-gashing reminders when those dastardly items fell, causing untold call-911-type pain together with suspicion of the need for near record stitches administered by Dr. Frankenstein.

No, this is all in the past! Now our heros bask

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2006, Customizations, Mainsheet, Port Lights, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Improved Ties For Portlight Curtains

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Improved Ties For Portlight Curtains
Bob Bierly

August, 2006 Hull #: 255

Many of you have probably experienced the wearing out of those dainty little strips of velcro provided by Mother Catalina to hold the accordion / pleated curtains for the opening and fixed ports. Not only have mine died, but I never did like them anyway as two hands were generally insufficient to fold up the shade and pull down on two or more velcro tabs. [Note: your editor also finds them a bit of a pain: to reset any shade it’s difficult to retrieve the underneath tab- Warren]

So, here’s a simple, cheap and effective fix requiring little work, not much material and even less talent. For each port you need ten inches of flat elastic material about 1/2 inch wide. Cut the elastic into two 5- inch pieces. Form a loop by overlapping each 5 inch

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2006, Anchor and Windlass, Mainsheet, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Windlass Alert

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Windlass Alert
Warren Elliott

November, 2006 Hull #: 44

There has been considerable traffic on our Sailnet email discussion group on this subject. Captains are finding problems ranging from clutch lockups to windlass slowdown/ failure, so I thought I’d give a brief overview of the problems and solutions, before more of you “suffer”–and there has been some suffering! Changing gear oil has also been batted around, but this is much less important, per the manufacturer, Maxwell.

Note that I hope to have a fuller article on this in the near future. There are two windlass models within our fleet: the “Freedom 800″ and the “VW 800″; early C380’s have the latter unit, but horizontally mounted. Boats from about late 1997 to 2002 have the Freedom model, and later C380’s and C387’s have the VW 800, vertically mounted.

Captains with the Freedom windlass have reported more problems than others, probably

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2006, Engine, Mainsheet, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Is Tachometer Accurate?

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Is Tachometer Accurate?
Richard Herbst

Date: November, 2006 Hull #: 93

I recently suspected that my helm’s tach was inaccurate. After investigating, I found as much as 1300 RPM error near the high end! The tachometer’s input signal comes from an upgraded alternator on my Westerbeke 42B engine, a Balmar model 91-100. So, if there’s an upgraded alternator in use, you could have a big tachometer error.

I found the error by using a $65.00 digital “Diesel Tiny Tach” from Design Technology Inc (www.tinytach.com) which claims an accuracy of +/- 10 RPM. My order included a longer cable [$10, + about $7 shipping], which allows the indicator to reach the helm. The Tiny Tach is powered by a 9-volt battery; its transducer clamps onto an injector’s fuel line, measuring the pulses of injected fuel to determine RPM. The unit can be set up permanently or connected when needed. I used

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