I have been very happy with my 16000 btu unit by Ocean Breeze in Stuart, FL. It has a radiant heat side that doesn’t need to be winterized, so we can visit the boat in the winter. AC unit runs with a Honda 2000.
Earl Poe
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While Warren went for a cost effective approach, we live in Florida. After our 16k unit dies, we replaced it with a Marine Air 18k unit in the storage locker in front of the galley. With a main duct in the saloon, we have duct work running to both the forward and aft cabins. We have a separate thru hull for the water input and use a condensator for the output which keeps the bilge dry.
By adding a smart start, which eliminate the large start up spike, we can also run our unit
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I have a 2002 Catalina 380. There is too much play in the transmission clutch cable, and I have decided to replace it. Does anyone know the length/specifications of the cable for the Catalina 380?
New 385, the exhaust vent loop on the forward bulkhead of the cockpit locker squeaks rather loudly at low rpms (it goes away at high rpms). Have other 385 owners experienced this noise? Is it normal or if not, were there any maintenance that made the noise go away?
I have a new Catalina 385 with new teak cockpit floors that have been removed for the winter. Two questions:
1. What is the best way to keep them looking “showroom new”? For instance, are they best oiled or treated with varnish? Of course they can’t be slippery when they get wet.
2. They tend to creak a bit. Has anyone figured out a way to soften the squeaking? I was thinking of using something like weatherstripping on the bottoms to cushion the seating on the deck.
New to association and getting familiar with boat. Ran across attachment in documents provided by previous owner relating to an overheat problem with the 42B4. Called Westerbeke and Catalina support trying to find out if it applied to my boat, hull 191. Catalina support related that it was discovered in earlier models and fixes were made; Westerbeke said same. I asked if thermostat should still be at 160 degrees if fixes were made. I was advised to keep it at 160 degrees. I had the engine services by my mechanic and he replaced it with a 180 thermostat, as specked by Westerbeke. He argues to keep it at 180; I’m on the fence. Any experienced advice appreciated.
Stage Door Canteen
Bill Poot
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New to association and getting familiar with boat. Ran across attachment in documents provided by previous owner relating to an overheat problem with the 42B4. Called Westerbeke and Catalina support trying to find out if it applied to my boat, hull 191. Catalina support related that it was discovered in earlier models and fixes were made; Westerbeke said same. I asked if thermostat should still be at 160 degrees if fixes were made. I was advised to keep it at 160 degrees. I had the engine services by my mechanic and he replaced it with a 180 thermostat, as specked by Westerbeke. He argues to keep it at 180; I’m on the fence. Any experienced advice appreciated.
Stage Door Canteen
Bill Poot
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I could not access the broken (inside) piece of the forward water vent earlier this year. I ended up with buying a 10” inspection port; carefully measured out the area for the port on the starboard side of the anchor locker; used a multifunction oscillating power tool with narrow cutting blade to cut the hole…leaving room to finish same with the sanding tool. I was able to access and replace the vent (ordered from Defender). Hope this helps!
from Jim, C380 #14
On my boat the old vent basically disintegrated and the outside portion fell off. From the V-berth I was able to reach up alongside the anchor locker and grab the vent hose and pull the remnants out and back where I could work on it. I then removed the old fitting, added an additional length of hose with a barbed coupling
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1) Head to Tank run. I did seal both ends with expanding foam which really helped control the odor. I then used duct take to spiral tape the ends together from the tank end. The pull-thru went okay until I got to the smaller opening just forward of the shower. I was pulling from the access in the shower wet locker and my wife was pushing from the tank end. Because of the increase in the OD of the new hose coupled with the large amount of cables running through the same opening it became very difficult to move the hose through that opening. So we used soapy water in a spray bottle to stray the hose in the pass thru opening forward and aft of the shower access. That helped a lot. I did measure the hose using an electrical fish tape and added about 4
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The fuel gauge is basically a simple ammeter circuit, that is, the meter is measuring the current thru the fuel sender’s variable resistor ( floating resistive arm…).
+12vdc is supplied to one side of the gauge/meter (from the ignition switch), the other side is carried, via a pink wire, to pin 6 of the 12 pin terminal strip within the engine control pod. From there it’s connected directly to the tanks variable resistor/arm via the center or main terminal at the tank ( fwd inboard part of tank). From there, current flows thru that var. resistor and is returned to -12vdc/ground. From the ground point on the tank, there should be a second wire which carries that ground to either the engine pod or main engine (don’t recall which). The engine & engine pod have a solid #10 ground wire between them.
Diagnosis is probably easiest by staring at the
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