I have been very happy with my 16000 btu unit by Ocean Breeze in Stuart, FL. It has a radiant heat side that doesn’t need to be winterized, so we can visit the boat in the winter. AC unit runs with a Honda 2000.
Earl Poe
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While Warren went for a cost effective approach, we live in Florida. After our 16k unit dies, we replaced it with a Marine Air 18k unit in the storage locker in front of the galley. With a main duct in the saloon, we have duct work running to both the forward and aft cabins. We have a separate thru hull for the water input and use a condensator for the output which keeps the bilge dry.
By adding a smart start, which eliminate the large start up spike, we can also run our unit
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Our C387 has a raw water electric toilet system that works very well; however, depending on the raw water or rather the location, ocean, river or creek, there is no smell from the sanitary system (ocean), or there is a very strong and offensive smell that is not very welcoming.
We are considering changing over to a fresh water system to mitigate the odor. We have done some research on the Web without any success. Has any other member encountered this odor problem with the Head? If yes, please share with us your solutions and also if any member has done the raw water to fresh water conversion, how was it accomplished, parts, labor, pictures, etc.
Thanks in advance for sharing your experience and comments on this subject.
Isi & LaMae
S / V Windseeker II
NJ
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Haven’t seen this topic on this list yet. Last weekend while on a mooring at Ithmus Cove Catalina Island in a fairly heavy and steady rain; very unusual for So California, water started seeping through the canvas. Spring Fever is a 2004 387 with original canvas installed by a local (Marina Del Rey, CA) canvas provider. The boat has always been kept in-slip, so it is exposed to the elements (both sun and rain) year round. Has anyone found a way to remedy such a situation before? I have to believe there is some compound that I can buy to apply to the dodger that will provide water repellent results.
This winter I want to replace the original dodger on my boat and am just starting the research. As luck would have it the guy in the next slip had is getting a new one on his power boat so I got to talk to his guy and get a price or $1800 for a new dodger about the same as the original one but with heavy gauge (I didn’t catch how thick) Strataglass. They will match the zippers to the connector and side windows (the big ones I added behind the normal side windows).
I haven’t committed yet and am looking for recommendations. What weight Strataglass have you used? We didn’t discuss it but of course we want to use Sunbrella fabric, what weight? The boat is in Winthrop, MA, so are there any people I should consider who do excellent work
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One of my larger ($$$) projects last spring was the installation of a hard dodger on my C387. Though I won’t mention the company that created it (good craftsmanship and poor customer relations), I have learned a lot about what makes the hard dodger a good investment and what issues captains should think about before they spring for this costly upgrade.
First of all, we love the new hard dodger. Our old dodger’s glass was scratched and becoming opaque and difficult to clean. The new dodger has a thicker Strataglass ™ that is sparkling clear and without the wrap-around nature of the old Eisenglass that caused wrinkles and distorted the vision. The downside of this thicker glass is that it doesn’t roll up easily for storage. When you take out a panel, you need to store it flat which can be problematic. We tend to store it on the rear
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1) Head to Tank run. I did seal both ends with expanding foam which really helped control the odor. I then used duct take to spiral tape the ends together from the tank end. The pull-thru went okay until I got to the smaller opening just forward of the shower. I was pulling from the access in the shower wet locker and my wife was pushing from the tank end. Because of the increase in the OD of the new hose coupled with the large amount of cables running through the same opening it became very difficult to move the hose through that opening. So we used soapy water in a spray bottle to stray the hose in the pass thru opening forward and aft of the shower access. That helped a lot. I did measure the hose using an electrical fish tape and added about 4
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My 2006, 387 hull #106 has developed. a concerning problem with the cast alloy sparcraft mast step secures the base of the mast to the deck. The mast step is secured to the deck via 4 corner bolts and in my case the casting has fractured in 2 of the corners so now only secured via 2 bolts with the remainder no longer effective.
After sourcing the replacement part #FM-580 from Sparcraft France, next steps were to secure a rigger to undertake the work and prepare for the day to ensure the riggers costs were minimised. In our case we elected to jack the mast manually to avoid significant cost blowouts the use of a crane can trigger.
Preparation tasks:
Source some 2 mm high-density polyethylene plastic sheet, trace a template of the mast step with a marker, cutting this using scissors seemed to work best, this is required to
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I fly an asym tacked to the anchor roller all the time. Trust me, at some point you will fly it in more than 12 kts. I run the tack line from the cockpit through a block with swivel shackle hooked to a heavy line tied tightly around the anchor roller itself (the rubber roller part) This allows me to get the tack much lower than using the bale and it keeps the load off the bale.
But Fair winds, Mike C380 #77, Debbia Racine, WImore importantly I suggest adding a Bobstay. As is, the anchor roller is designed to accept down force, without a bobstay, the upward load from the asym tack will eventually work the anchor roller loose from the deck and cause leaks. In extreme cases it can bend it or even rip it out. You’ll be surprised at how much load there is on the tack
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We have one and we are very happy with it. I don’t use it much but when I need it, I NEED it. We generally turn it on when entering a marina just incase we need it and it is a nice safety net to have.
Ours is a Vetus Model 6012B and it is installed in front of the forward water tank. The previous owner had it installed by Engineered Marine Systems in Annapolis. The invoice was for $7,000 ($3600 in labor).
Let me know if you need anymore information.
Mike Gilmore
s/v Morning Glory, C380 #34
In April, we installed (ourselves) the Yacht Thruster 230 Simplex (ExTurn). The kit was $6300. We spent another $1200 or so on miscellaneous materials for the project and haul-out. While I agree with Mike that we don’t use it often, it is pretty amazing when we do. We have notice little to
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[Editor: Much discussion on this topic. Here are a few pictures of such installations…]
Batteries sit in a fiberglass box. Box usually has walls only and when fitted in place, they build bottom inside of it.
I had to cut part of the floor above the box, between stern wall of the box and stairs. Floor can be cut and battery box can be extended to fit four 6V batteries. There is no need to change anything on floor boards. When you remove battery box lids with the attached floor boards, you will notice that floor under is not flat.
Regards,
Mario
Here is a picture I found on internet. It is very much like mine. I can put in four 6V batteries from boat centerline toward starboard side. There is still space left on the starboard side for one more battery.
I’ve attached a picture of the 4 Trojan
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