The attached picture shows one way to access the anchor well hose. I didn’t actually replace the hose because when I got in there I could tell that it wasn’t the culprit. I had the Admiral run the hose in the well while I felt for leaks at both ends of the hose. I don’t think the hose is reachable without an access hole. I could have replaced the hose through this access hole. The hole looks kind of raw in this picture but I finished it by putting a six inch deck plate in it and covering it with the teak plywood panel.
Paul McManus
Sea Sea Rider C380 #185
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We have a mini 1200watt heater from west marine. We have used it for a few years mostly on the starboard circuit. We put it on the port circuit this past weekend and it caused a fire on the white wire going to the block on the starboard wall behind the breaker panel. The end of the wire that was on the block burnt clear through. This line came from the shore power breaker and went directly to the wall panel. The wire was a 12awg but the main breaker is 30 amp. The breaker does have two connections…so I was wondering if it breaks down the amps into two 15 amp lines? If not then the wiring is undersized! 30 amp should be on 10awg.
I replaced the burnt wire with a 10awg and tightened all of the other connections as well. The breaker never tripped… The only two
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All our dodger windows are removable, makes for good ventilation and easy winter storage
Use polycarbonate glass in the dodger, visibility is superior to standard material, only drawback is that they do not roll up
Grab rail is a must
Cover for the window to view the sail in the Bimini is opened and closed from the inside with the actual cover on the outside
Zipper on the connector to the dodger should zip from the outside to the center providing easy access from either side when boarding
Frame for the enclosure mounted on the stern rail minimizes additional holes in the fiberglass
Brace leading forward on the enclosure provides hand support when getting on an off as well as a brace to lean on when flaking the sail at the end of the boom
Side entrance windows of the enclosure are secured to the enclosure to
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When my compressor failed I went for a completely new system. I installed a Isotherm SP system. It is very small, no fan, no pump. The power draw is much less and there is no noise! Makes the aft cabin more peaceful. I installed it on a shelf, high up under the galley sink and no one even knows it is there. The only down side is that the boat has to be hauled to install.
Here are three photos of the Isotherm installation. One is of the freezer section across the outboard section of the upper shelf in the fridge. I made a solid base and lid for it from starboard. We’ve had stuff frozen in there for weeks. The second is the compressor under the sink. The potable water pump is bigger. The third shows the PVC pipe that I ran the refrigeration lines through behind the stove.
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[Editor: Also see post of refrigerator door replacement.]
We appear to be getting a lot of condensation from the main forward facing fridge door. It is the original door and as far as I can tell the original door seal. I did the dollar bill test and it seems as if there is not a lot of drag on numerous spots around the seal. Has anyone replaced the seal on the door before? If so was it successful? And where would you get a new seal? I have seen in the photos that some have upgraded the complete door assy with the stainless steel version. Is this a better option long term and a successful fix? Is the door exchange/replacement a perfect swap or what is involved in that project?
Thanks,
Paul
Hull 170
Maybe I should take some pictures when I am at the boat this weekend. I added
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I have also been fighting the refrigerator door. It has to be defrosted weekly. The gasket material had been replaced by previous owners with weather-stripping. The hinge side gasket gets pushed off when you close the door, our door is warped from latching down at the top left corner with a noticeable gap around lower right corner. I was looking at a screw down hatch latch for the lower corner and decided to order the stainless steel door with commercial latch from Catalina. (I passed it off as a birthday present for my wife…she LOVED it) It is a special production part based on your hull number and was ordered JUST LAST WEEK! I can’t wait to get it. Cost is $505 plus shipping (Gulp) but over the next 10 years or so there is no doubt we will appreciate it.
John
C-380 #105
Lucky Star
Factory Supplied Fridge Door
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You have probably seen the ads in Boat US magazine and other boating pubs for Affordable Hardtops and listing a website www.hardtotop.com. The product shown on the site both in a photo gallery and in sketches is basically a bimini top (mostly for power boats) constructed of hard plastic translucent polycarbonate (2 ft by 8 ft ?) sheets fitted together fore and aft with a proprietary aluminum extrusion and attached to your preexisting SS or aluminum bows. The top is is sold as a kit for DYI or local fabrication. My question is simple. Has anyone here on Yahoo groups done one of these kits or have any experience with the company behind the ads? Having worn out two canvas biminis in 14 years this has some appeal. Comments?
Bob Bierly
CMON WIND #255
Bob;
The product looks very much like a product from the Architectural skylight industry that
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Before you pull the old hose out (through the under sink cabinet) drill a hole in it and attach a line at the tank end. If the hose jams, you can pull it forward again to release it. Then attach the line to the new hose and use it as a guide, have someone pull gently while you push from under the sink. That way the new hose will not go where it wants, but rather where you are guiding it. Use enough new hose length so that you can cut off the few inches with the holes in it. Yes two holes so that you can arrange the leed line to be in the center of the hose. Some tape, creating a cone also helps to guide the hose.
Bob Xanadu
c380, #243
Might help to spray outside of new hose with silicone or Teflon. Warren
[Editor: This comes from a long-time C380 owner. The content should be of interest to members given the experience of Bob Bierly who sent it to the list serve.]
Folks,
As a “public service” to those few east coast sailors who may be looking to make that first big trip south, I pass along this semi commercial message from publishers of the best anchor and waterway guide publications I have found. (Barbara and Doug Leinhard on SV Melinda Kay might want to comment). The message says it all.
Bob Bierly
From: diana@semi-local.com To: bojabierly2@aol.com Sent: 9/1/2014 5:54:24 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time Subj: On the Water ChartGuides Update: ICW AnchorGuides SECOND EDITION Now Available
On the Water ChartGuides Update: ICW AnchorGuides SECOND EDITION Now Available
Hi Bob,
This summer we were thrilled when Practical Sailor magazine, the “Consumer Reports” of all things marine, awarded our Cruise Guide and Anchor Guide series
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We have an electric Head that uses raw water. Recently we have noticed that depending on the source of the raw water, ocean, river or creek, there is either no odor (open ocean) or a very strong odor (rivers or creeks). We are considering a conversion to fresh water for the Head. Has any other member encountered the same issue? If yes, what was done to solve the odor issue.
Sent from my iPad
Any comments / suggestions regarding the conversion are very much appreciated.
Thanks
Isi & LaMae
S/V Windseeker II
NJ
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